Tony D

Why do people buy a 370Z and then put a complete turbo kit on it? (You guys did notice there was a 370 MODIFIED class at MSA this year, what...a couple of months after introduction?) Asking why someone bought the best car they could to start a project with smacks of something... No different than someone buying a new car then doing similar workovers...IMO

Wyoming Has Antelope scattered on the roadside all across the state... Nebraska has Carhenge, but only when you enter from SD, after you hit 80 and start heading east... I guess that makes it close, but I gotta go with Antelope, already seen Carhenge, the antelopes are everywhere, and keep you on your toes. Corn does NOT threaten to jump out in front of you at any moment and thrash your car or kill you! Call me an adventure seeker! I gotta go with Da Lope!

Do what I did with my last fixit ticket: Sign the officers spot with an unintelligible scribble, put 'HBPD #XXX' in the 'badge number' section, and turn it in to pay your fine. I didn't "Fix" any-damn-thing because nothing was damn broken! I look at it as an 'equipment annoyance tax' that you pay from time-to-time when you have the front windows tinted... Double Limo Tint suprisingly gets not much of a second look most of the time. But if they do, my routine is clear. I usually pay in person at the courthouse on the way back from the citation site so I don't get involved back home...

Any sport where there is a rule officially called "Blood Reversal" is a MAN's sport. I was lost to American Football save for the Black-and-Blue League after personally witnessing my first professional Match in Wigan in 2005... It was how our football once was... and as it should be! Er... GO ALL-BLACKS! (I know, I know...) LOL

Ditto, both those are on my corporate laptop from the corporate office. Run the AVG scan regularly! I don't go to a lot of places that should infect me. But if you have a porn proclivity...

I love the rationale: The crank is worth $400, so an additional 300# of scrap iron therefore is worth slightly more than $1 per pound! Riiiiiiiiiiiight!

Oh hell yes! Check out Summit Racing. I think they are in there. As far as I know they are still available directly from Redline-Weber in Compton or wherever they are now...

Daeron pegged my intent exactly. I'm not upset or showing animosity. I'd seen the head in the past, and played around. But it never rated more than an 'emph...if I had the time this might be interesting' kind of thought. Especially since for the money spent, you can get the same HP out of the non-crossflow head. My driving point is the non-crossflow head is good for operation at 9000+ rpms, and the horsepower availabe at that level is pretty good as mentioned. So I've always needed a quantification of improvement over the L-Head. Sure, the TC24B-1 O.S. Giken Head is a nice whiz-bang underhood goody for a show...but I'd like a performance bump to make the $$$ outlay worthwhile.

The bellows are similar. Mercedes 280SEL has a nice example on their manifold from what Jeff tells me. They pull away from the head at the ends 1/6 just like yours is doing. Same as the SFP tubular header. There is a lot of metal to expand and put a stress on it, and the longer a straight run you have, the more expansion in a given plane you will have. Add to that they are outside the 'bundle' of the tubes in the center, so they cool faster than the center (follow where this is heading?) so the expansion is the most on the longer straight runs, where that expansion can push harder against whatever it's pushing against. Then when shut down, the center stays hot because all the close mass, while the outer two cool faster, and pull back. Make sense?

The flow is not so much in the diameter of the runner, but the way the air makes the bend to flow through the valve opening. Bowl work pays FAR more benefit than simply using the largest port available. Using the L28 intake may help because it's roughly around 3mm diametrically larger, but that flow difference would need an engine running up far beyond where you would run a cast-piston L20ET normally. Using an Early Dual Carb L20A Camshaft in the L20ET would give you a power delivery curve with a torque peak around 4500 rpm, and a power peak closer to 6300 and which would rev freely like the early 240's Fairlady Z's to around 7K---the practical limit for the cast pistons anyway. It makes for a very nice street turbo setup that way! As for an N/A L20A... You may want to check out this link: Is this what you were going for? It's what I went for when building an L20A... So I'm definitely NOT in the 'chuck it' crowd... Sticking a Turbo on THAT one would net some impressive power numbers I posit. We just need to put flat-tops in for a lower compression ratio...and go after G/BGALT records...

Weber does make a jet block assembly that allows Weber Jetting and Emulsion Tube Componenets to be retrofitted to some Holleys...

If it warped before, truing it will only let it warp again later. JeffP went through this with his SFP Tubular Header. We stress relieved it and imparted 0.100" counter stress while heating to put a 'reverse strain' into the metal at the relaxed state. After a couple of hours on the dyno, we ended up pulling things apart, and it was already starting to warp. There is a stress in the piping that is pulling that flange. Putting in flexible bellows in the appropriate long sections of the tubing, to minimize the tubing expansion stresses imparted to the flange. That is the source of the warpage, not the welding on the flange and tubing joint. Now that the flange is a different thickness, this likely will reutrn in short order, and unfortunately be worse. Good Luck!

I'm with Alan on the "Copied from Nissan Sports Option"... I have a Fujitsbo which will most decidedly NOT fit on a RHD. I have a 400 Series Stainless Steel that looks identical to the OS (Green), Trust (Blue), and various Generic JDM headers which all fit both RHD and LHD cars. I'm not sure what the source of the Stainless Steel Header was originally, I just got it 'cause I saw it on the wall for five years and decided that I was not leaving Japan without possessing it! The flange stops near the engine/transmission joint more or less, and makes for quick engine changes, and a lot of interchangability. The fittment was easily done with any inlet manifold, and sealing with stock gaskets was perfect. Until recently when the US Manufactured headers came with the proper thick flange like the JDM units have had since day one, I wasn't giving them much of a second look. Now that the flanges are available separately....if it's not Stahl, I'll probably build my own just for the challenge and pride. I'm stocked for JDM stuff. As Alan said, many manufacturers made them in the JDM, and were usually identifiable by the color the manufacturer used. Fujitsbo had some red headers that actually changed color so you could use it as a tuning aid! Mine does not... cheers!

Do I know it fits, or did I know just what MAG has discovered that bore spacing, etc is damn close enough to warrant further investigation. The question WAS NOT 'know this fits' --- the question responded to was 'how has this head slipped by us all for this long?' or some permutation thereof... It did most decidedly NOT 'slip by' me for sure. I've chucked the DOHC conversion as too much effort for too little gain (er... if any, I still have yet to see ANY DOHC conversion outperform the properly prepared Non-Crossflow L-Head.) If someone is saying this engine will make 1200HP in Turbocharged form at less than 9000 rpms, and 30PSI of boost (oh, and last 26hours on the dyno at that level)... Then I'll be marginally interested for a street car. For the racing class I'm entered into, it's disallowed, so why bother? That sum up my stance? I'm not threadjacking this, nor am I denigrating any effort made towards this end. I'm just stating why I personally have decided it's not worth the effort in my case. As an exercise in machining or to say "I did it" is eminently all the justification it needs under any condition. Hell, "Just Because" is good enough for me to do most things. But in this case, I just don't see tangible gains being had above what the good old L-Series has already proven it can do for about $2500 in head work, TOPS!

That explains the drunken call I got in Bangkok last week...

clip it, it's saveable...

Couple of days late... bummer! depending on which way you went, you were very close to my place as well (I15 out of the LA Basin, or I10...pick one!) Unless you went north to Sacto and out 80 across Nebraska...in which case, 'poor bastard'! LOL Doesn't matter, I was still in Thailand on the 9th. Didn't get home till late the evening of the 10th into LAX...where I got a 350Z for the weekend drive back to my place and to pick up my 260Z at ONT long term parking.

Reminds me of the final scene in Vanishing Point where they drive the Camaro into the bulldozer roadblock...

SD33 is not a 4.5 Liter like the E-Bay Advert says...

They show up regularly on E-Bay for around $200 used... I have welded up some pretty badly broken up manifolds. Likely any settlement from the shipping company (that is not disallowed for 'improper packaging') will more than cover a welder getting it back in one piece, and a machine shop skimcutting and truing the two manifold surfaces back flat in case the welder didn't jig quite as precisely as he should have...

:icon4:Define 'we all' a bit more clearly there...

Considering the L26 was originally designed as an EFI design... It appeared in December 1973 at the Tokyo Auto Salon in the new Fairlady 260 ZE... The model that never was...

Second Source: Body Shop AY on Route 58 outside Gate 4 Kadena Air Base Okinawa Japan. They did the auto insurance work on the island for years relating to G-Noses, primarily because they had taken molds off original Nissan Parts and were making replacement bits cheaper than you could at the time buy them new from Nissan. I watched them lay up several buckets during my time loitering about their shop. Their rafters are full of cool stuff, amongst the bits up there are the original plugs in most cases! It only works if you have a OEM Nissan Nose, though. Otherwise "some massaging required for fitment"

A rust free 240Z, and a Rust Free 280Z are TWO ENTIRELY different pricing structures, with a 3 to 4X differentiation between them. Any 73 is worth probably 2X what a similarly conditioned 260 is worth, and 3 to 4X that of a similarly conditioned 280Z. Market realities are shifting, and the 'good old days' of $500 240Z's are rapidly evaporating. People who have them, know what they have. Similarly 40 DCOES are worth about half what a similarly conditioned set of 45's are worth. You are comparing apples and oranges in using a 280Z with 40's as a comparison against a 240Z with 45's...bodywork notwithstanding.

I would NOT try to do a rushed engine swap to make a cross country trip. I have done XC trips countless times in Z-Cars (never anything newer than 76)... The L26 is hard pressed to average UNDER 20mpg, no matter how hard pressed. I did Oglalla NE to Grand Rapids Michigan in 11 hours, and that included 45 minutes stuck at the IL/IN Border near Gary to pay the 30cent toll to leave the state of Illinois... That leg of the trip got 19mpg. Driving through Wisconsin on the return trip and keeping it under 65 the whole way through the state, I got near 27mpg. L26 bone stock with Round Top SU's and a three core radiator running a 160F thermostat. The 76, with EFI...I got 22mpg. Period. Less in town. Very consistent, but when I knew I was 'flat an long' there was no easy 'lean run' settting to be had. The difference for a properly maintained car is moot. I would NOT do a swap and then shake it down on the trip...which is what it sounds like you will be doing if a motor swap is giving you time constraints. The only thing I would change would be a five speed, the L24 with a 3.36 can get some hellacious gas mileage if you keep the speed down in 5th gear. As for accomodations...I slept in the Z there and back on two different occasions. It's more comfortable than you think. Oh, and in ALL trips, NO TRIPLE A PLUS! Who got confidence in their mechanical skills? Who wants a life of adventure. If it breaks, fix it. If it breaks so hard you need AAA Plus, you skipped something MAJOR that should NEVER have been overlooked IMO! SOMETHING TO CONSIDER LONG AND HARD: There is about NOTHING on a 240Z with SU's that just 'goes away' and leaves you stranded or without the ability to 'drive through' what ever you need to get it to a parts place. The L28ET has SEVERAL electronic components that can DIE and leave you DEAD IN THE WATER, STRANDED. Just something to consider if you're worried about driving that far...