Tony D

Webcams is off 3rd Street in Riverside. I pass them every night coming home from work when I'm in town...why on earth would I e-mail them something???? +1 951 369 5144 or FAX +1 951 369 7266 They prefer phone conversations to anything else. Face-to-Face is better. Take a holiday! http://www.webcamshafts.com/ Set up a Skype Account in the USA and your talking to them relatively clearly for less than a couple 'o pence a moment. Fax your enquiry and set up a time to call for clarifications and technical commentary. I'd ditto above, that cam is nowhere near 'radical' for the street. It depends on engine size as well, what works for a 1600 is not nearly as sedate as a similar performing cam in a 2L retrofitted down in the displacmeent range. Good Luck!

I think I used a 5/8" heater hose cap from the 'Help' section...it may have been bigger. As I recall the NAPA where I got them has truck parts, so it may have been larger. But I'm almost positive a 5/8" (15mm) fits.

Well, that crossed into the political commentary, if nothing prior did! I have to stop now on a reply, as there is no retort to that statement that can not come from a political viewpoint!

What moving parts does a Weber have less than 'other carbs'? I think a Rochester 2G is about as simple a carb as you can get, and far less 'moving parts' than a Weber. Ever look at the starting device on a Weber? Yeech! Gears and levers... hell Mikuini used a simple rotating disc. There's not a lot to the machanics of cleaning one, tuning one properly on the other hand....that can be a lifetime of toil if you won't settle for 'good enough' at some point!

It's only a problem during that 5-10 minute period after a hot shutdown. Later cars use a priming pulse of the fuel pump to restore fuel pressure to the rail and prevent this hot restart problem. But this should NEVER happen after a 10 minute drive, even in 130+ heat. If yours is doing this after that short of a run, you have OTHER issues not related to heat soak. A leaking injector, a leaking pump check valve, an obstructed fuel pump inlet, or running very hot to begin with... Normally, this will occur after a highway run in heat (like I10 driving to phoenix in July pullinga small trailer) and then only in the 5-10 minutes after shutdown. Leat it rest for a 30 minute lunch, and it restarts FINE, try a restart after a 5 minute 'gas and go' and FINE. It takes time for the rail to heat soak, and then time for it to properly dissipate. One thing I found that helped quite a bit was running a 160 degree thermostat (save the comments guys, it does not kill my mileage, nor does it cause any adverse issues in real world applications on the early S30 EFI!) the underhood temperatures really stayed lower than when running a 190, and it works really nicely. But like I said, if yours is doing this after a 10 minute run to lunch, something is BIG wrong. That should NOT be happening.

If I get 10K on the rears of my Dunlops, I'm perfectly happy. Then again, I don't look to get any more out of them... Looks like I will have to check out Hankook for more grip and more life. That would make the wife happy on at least one point of owning a Z-Car.

Excellent news, since I already have carbs with that venturi cut out! My friend has a HAAS machining center (er...several actually) and machined them out for me. If you use devcon or other epoxy filler on the body of the carb (or welding it Heliarc/TIG) in the areas of the die-cast where it will cut through to the outside of the body when bored, you can do it in one operation. On my 73's it was in the float bowl only, so I used epoxy as it was easy. Since it's not protruding far, that means I can run my Bosch Injector underneath the carb, and his TBI setup from the dome area, and do a direct comparison to the difference in performance and fueling that is needed with each different injector type and position! I had done a 'bosch underneath' setup on another car, but it wasn't firing in the right direction, and we ended up putting the suction piston in to even get it running off-idle properly. It looks like Rick may have confirmed my hypoithesis that you have to fire at the throttle plate to make this application work. Just for the record, my Chevrolet Truck with the factory TBI setup takes some cranking to fire it off, it's not like port injection where it goes right off first thing in the morning. But it's usually good on restarts.

Aziza, how went the Canyon Drive and Viewing on Sunday???? i was moving railroad ties and had a Z on jackstands for a total brake rework...which is still not completed...

With the technology advancement rate, it's going to be rendered moot through OEM advancements in ECU. They already have remote monitoring provisions in OBD3, and with some high line cars the ability exists already to disable the vehicle through remote means (say you miss a lease payment...) All that needs to be done is the car with an ECU lock gets stolen, and the owner notifies the OEM branch that is set up to liason with Law Enforcement, and they can get a cel-phone location fix, and disable the car as it's being driven. I don't see a 'need' for it, it was the Governmental Mandates that set up the OBD "Remote Monitoring" provisions in the protocols for 'future use'...what that 'future use' is, remains to be determined. But for me? I don't see any 'need' for it whatsoever.

You will be assimilated... BORG=WOLF ???? The parallels are too startling to deny! LOL

Woah! Yeah, I guess! You guys hang with Pete Skelton and Joe Geronomiller from 18EMS? Man, Pete came on to the dorm one day after lifting and stole two slices of pizza off the CQ's table...someone had laced them with Magic Mushrooms. That was not a fun afternoon in Pete's room trying to hold him down! Ahhh, youth...

I got kind of nailed when I even mentioned that I saw the trailer at 'another site'...Like Tony D doesn't watch FnF... Yeah, and the Pope doesn't check what's on the "Premium Adult PPV Channels" when he's in a hotel...

You got it rags! DO NOT do an MC swap without swapping the lines. You also have to extend the pushrod from the 71 and earlier booster 10-15mm to depress the M/C from a later model (or was it shorten...at any rate the pushrod has to be adjusted) If you buy a rebuilt 72-78 Booster, and later M/C along with the pre-bent 72-78 lines from the M/C to the switch on the frame rail, you make a nice quick swap. Bending those straight lines from the early cars is a bear! My P.O. decided to arbitrarily change the hydraulic routing on my 73 because he didn't "like the look of the crossed lines"...that made for an interesting first brake application after I got the car running. That one had me scratching my head for a while to figure out what happened, since prior to that point I'd only owned 70's and 71's...and the 'Lines looked right to me!' DOH!

Hose Man Hose Pros Parker Store Nelson Dunn Hell, at nelson dunn they will MAKE a Stainles Steel bellows with whatever ends you supply on it.

Yes, with a qualification... What is the drop height of the conversion piece he made that houses the GM TBI Injector? That is, how big of an opening is there remaining compared to a 46mm open tube? I know the 46mm hole will flow (roughly) 740cfm (from memory) and two will have a potential of twice that. Most Triples are choked down to around 6 34mm holes, but have to operate at a higher delta-P due to siphoning fuel from the bowl, so they are usually around the 1100-1300cfm range for flow. Since EFI is measured at a lower restriction, the holes 'flow more' than carburettors. Our 45mm Carbs netted 40 less HP at 750 less RPMs than the 45mm ITBs. To run that kind of power we would have had to go to 55mm Triples (using 45 mm chokes to function!) Depending on which injectors you use from GM's parts supply, there should be FAR more fuel than you will ever need. Two injectors are all that are on my 7.4L tow vehicle, and that is well over 150HP. The 7.4's run an elevated fuel pressure, closer to 30psi than the normal TBI pressure of 20 or so. Show us photos again. I miss seeing the parts on the car. I have to drop him a line and see the progress on the other SU adapters. I sent him 52# worth of every Datsun SU ever produced to get the patterns made and set up for sale. That was a year ago. I think you ended up getting the first set off his production line after I sent in the carbs for samples! More importantly, how does it RUN NOW?!?!?!?!?!

There's always Megasquirt... (Sorry, couldn't resist!) That support source drying up sucks! That system 'needs' some clarification, that manual is like 200+ pages long! "Can someone distill this for me?" LOL

OBX is now offering the 'lifetime warranty' hook as well, predicated on the condition the diffy unit is not disassembled. With a warranty, regardless of application, it takes a step up in the competiton. Loosing your car for a time while the replacement is coming can suck, but that would be the same with Quaife or OBX. My 73 with a conventional LSD also has had issues with the rear cover bolts coming loose no matter what I seem to do to it. Maybe the 265's out back and my right foot have something to do with it...

Last I had contact with him directly was in 91-92 when I had to get my car (er...his car) smogged! What a cluster... At that time he was back to Kadena, and planning on being there for a while. I never actually met him face-to-face! Only on the phone. He had sold the car during the divorce, and I got it from the guy who was going to take it to the P.I. and do a V8 Conversion on it. He couldn't get it running, and so the rest is history... I ended up finding out who's car it was from Clyde Wood (Clyde Tomoyose) who was working up at the Torii Station Auto Hobby Shop at the time, and who had the pistons made for that engine at his dad's shop down in Naha when Roger was on the island in 81 (I think). When he returned from Nellis, he parked the car around the corner from my house off base for years. Maybe he was living out in Morgan Manor, I don't quite know. Anyway, when it came time for registration (I got popped for running around on the Japanese plates by the CHP 2 years after getting it to California...) I got in touch with him via phone for some 'documentation'. If you have ANY photos of Roger, or his car (the Blue Z with the Headlights in the Hood) let me know, I would KILL to have some 'period correct historical shots' from the car before I put the G-Nose and Whale Tail on it. I never thought to ask Roger for copies of any of his construction photos when he was having it built. Maybe I should start some internet searches to see what shows up, eh? You scratched my brain on that one. I would like some photos of the car's history before me! I digress...

Actually I don't know what you are talking about. Did YOU read the thread. Someone stated that 'nobody said if they were JIC/AN'---but you did say you converted yours to AN. That leaves open the possibility that someone would think that WITHOUT CHANGING THE COOLER you can simply adapt to AN and run them as replacement lines. Not unless you do ALL the fittings to AN. You only stated you have to get a "new cooler" in your last post. I guess you finally read the whole thread and got the gist of it? I don't know why stock lines 'dont work in an S30'...they seem fine in my wife's 74 260Z-T conversion... As a review of the original post that precipitate the warning: "I ran mine with A/N adapters, was a 10m IIRC, might have been 12m, just take the banjo bolt to your local hydraulic fitting shop, you can get JIC adapters for much less than A/N " Absolutely right, no body saying they were the same as stock. Also no mention whatsoever that you need to replace the cooler, just a contention that you changed adapters...what other inference are we to draw from such a post? I guess warning people of the incompatibility is the wrong thing to do should someone misconstrue your post. Hence mine. If it's such a terrible transgression to inform people of a possible fitting incompatibility, I will remove all my 'useless' posts in this thread, under the understanding that this misleading post be removed as well, since it calls for M10, or M12, 'or something'... When in a glass house, consider heavily the need to throw stones.

My buddy just bought (like within the past two weeks) a ZO6 (or was it a 5? do they have a ZO5? I'm not a corvette guy...) for $18K, I wouldn't bother importing one with later models of better performance going so cheap. The end-all is to have them send you photos of the driver's door jamb, and the emissions stickers under the hood. If the compliance sticker on the door jamb states FMVSS compliance, as well as EPA, then you can reimport it no problem. When I bought my 73Z off Roger Puffer (400MMS, Kadena AFB), that is all they looked for on rentry. And that allowed me to tick the 'complies' box on the importation form. There is some talk about the converter being punked for operating outside the USA with no unleaded being available, but that's not the case in the time frame that Corvette was used. Even then, they only required a statement to say the converter was replaced. There was no compliance test unless it was a LOCAL (read STATE) requirement. It's lying to the federal gubbmint, about a car...pffffft!

"Cut and Paste"

The big question I would have in that case is "Did you hear it detonate?" Was this on one engine, or several? I've run I don't know how many stock N/A L's and the HG always seems to blow before the pistons are done. Including the deadliest detonation there is: that which you don't hear! My experience with Turbo Builds like this is restricted to less than a dozen builds, much less than the N/A conversions I've done. But they seem to work the same as the N/A's in my experience, you can just boost slightly higher without 'hearing' the detonation. The parallel between what I've seen in my blown engines, and what KTM has posted in the past is startingly similar. When I saw his photo posts, I even think I pu up one-word posts: "Detonation" I would have to see your engine, that sounds strange for them to go bad like that unless someone previously did bad things, or you had already broken parts in there to begin with and the detonation you did just pushed it over the edge.

I think judging by your ending symbol, you got my point.

Using the resistors makes it easier, and takes out any possibility of toasting them while you figure out the correct PWM settings.

The runner is an interesting swap. That works different than I would have thought, but my experience is in taking stuff from the Manifold runner. The MAP going screwy with the IAC is a good bit of information. It makes sense in retrospect. This is why I don't like IAC's. There really is no reason for them, but it does make the A/C easier than a fabricated Pulloff. Though, to play the Devil, no 'works rally car' would EVER have an IAC...it would have a fabricated zinc-coated bracket and a pneumatic pull-off! muahahahaha!