Tony D

Have you checked out a company called Sermatech Airfoil Management? I believe they have offices in UK. The shop here in Los Angeles takes orders at the will call counter for ceramic coating. They are a jet engine parts coating/machining operation, so their stuff is 'the real deal'---and at least here the guys with Cobras and all the local NHRA/IHRA guys have their headers and brake discs treated there. Tech-Line is out of Temecula (20 minutes from my house!) and they make good coatings as well. I used their abradable coating on blower rotors, etc... Aerospace Jet Engine Coatings is what you want to search out for these components. The thermal barrier stuff on the intake manifold is more open to application as the base metal isn't getting hot. Hell, white paint there could help underneath. Simply painting the pushrod tubes on a Corvair with VHT Ceramic Paint in white where the head cooling airflow goes across them can reduce the sump oil temperature almost 20 degrees! Barriers have come a long way since 1979 when I did those tests to check if Mr. Finch was B.S.'ing me or not! For turbo manifolds, the 2000 degree stuff is what you want, period. Jeff had used some other coatings that flaked from dyno time alone. And he's tuning for EGT's that were considerably less than 1685F that some advocated! Matter of fact, when we were straightening his SFP Header, we had the center section of the piping to yellow-white heat and that only resulted in minimal coating damage that was localized to where the flame was actually hitting the surface. FWIW, that TURBOX looks like stuff I'd consider if you want something other than black.

Are you sure the WRX unit is an R160? The newest US Spec STi versions have a helical R180, and the JDM had them a couple of years prior to us getting them here. Come to think of it, the WRX's may have had R180's and the new STi has a Helical R200. I forget.

I say it's to hold a super secret NOS bottle line against the shock because he hasn't had the new upper shock housing machined to properly conceal it yet...

Testing the O2 out of each cylinder is kind of advanced tuning. For what you are after I think you won't need it. Realistically, a good EGT Probe and scanner like they use in light aircraft (Aircraft Spruce has them for Cessnas that run on 13.8VDC...) can monitor and give you a graphic readout of individual cylinder temperatures and differential. Before O2 sensors were commonly available, that was THE way to tune the mixture and test airflow through each cylinder. If you can see less than 25 degrees differential cylinder-to-cylinder during a steady load (like climbing a tall hill in 4th gear at 3/4 throttle or WOT...your airflow is balanced and no tweaking of your horns would be required. The probes and kits for simple rotary switch setups for EGT reading are available pretty reasonably (far less cost than the aircraft stuff) and if you have a buddy reading and writing numbers as he flips the switch from cylinder to cylinder you will get a darned good idea of variation. Six probes, leads, rotary switch and Decently-Sized DIGITAL READOUT (don't even WASTE your time with an analog gauge in this application if you are serious about analysis, you need ACCURATE numbers like 1285F versus 1320F which on most analog gauges will be almost identical...) The holes in your header would be less than 1/8" and the probes would go in VERY close to the mating flange of the head---you could even get longer thermocouples and put them so they go into the exhaust port and get even closer to the exhaust valve for even more accurate readings. There is an integrated thermocouple/stainless steel hose clamp arrangement that lets you drill the small holes in the header, then install the assembly over the hole tightenting the hose clamp to seal the whole thing back up again for driving. Small holes are good. I like small holes. You would be amazed to see what misfires are occurring and can be read with such a 'primitive' setup. Sequential? Let's not even go there!

Well, it's 12:10 so technically it's not 1AM, but I'm still here. First time I've brought the Laptop home in a while. My excuse is I may have to fly to Kuwait either tomorrow or Saturday so this is what I consider 'pre-lagging' so I'm awake when I land and don't go through the normal lag. Whenever possible, Hybrid Z is my preferred Pre-Lag Travel Aid. They should advertise themselves as such!

By using the CPI Calculator, a car that sold for $3360 in 1970 would sell for just under $19,000 today. Were it priced at $19,000 I'd consider the above comment valid. At almost 2X that price (find one for $29,930) I'd not consider 'value' one of it's highpoints. Even at dealer inflated pricing of 1970, the price is still high. I mean, a $5000 240Z in 1970 would be pricing adjusted to only $27,374 today! The car is selling for close to 5X what cost of production is...I mean, give a guy a break!

There are elements to each side of the argument. The CHP is getting training to notice FMIC's on Hondas as 'modifications' and probable cause for a stop. Thing is they are also being told gauge pods on the A Pillar, Aftermarket Wheels, and a lowered ride height are also reasons for probable cause to stop and inspect. Got a tail light out? Then they got you no matter what. But as far as an L28ET 'looking stock and passing a roadside inspection' that's wrong as well. They will check the VIN plate in the engine compartment, and compare it to the Block Serial Number. If they don't match, and the swap has not been registered with the DMV (as required by the applicable section of the CVC) then it's an 'illegal engine change' and subjects your car for immediate impound. That little impound/crushing incident out in Moreno Valley last year happened less than 7 miles from my house, and that is exactly what they did: Compared VIN to records of Engine S/N's recorded to that VIN. That is what the cops kept referring to as 'illegal engines'. Fixit? Huh huh huh... not hardly. They send you to the referee for verification of the smog compliant status of your vehicle. I got news, there are NO EXEMPT VEHICLES in private hands (generally speaking) when it comes to smog. The only thing you are exempt from is biannual testing. You are still required to comply with emissions requirements, even though you don't have to test. Any car may be commanded to appear at a designated referee station or test-only station at any time. It's called 'random out-of-cycle compliance check'. And the roadside check/referrals? No exemption from them either. The CHP has had that authority since at least 1954. It's nothing new. So many internet myths being bantered about...what shall we do??? Oh, and highest unintercooled boost I ran on my 73 before getting an intercooler was 21psi. Just to make my thread on-topic. Somewhat.

JeffP used the JetHot 2000 Blue, and I can personally attest he's had that baby glowing pink (see his website!) without any flaking issues. George, if you are considering coating and not running the heatshield, you may want to Shiny Silver Cermacoating at least the bottom of the intake manifold to prevent heat transfer to it. If you do the whole thing, it likely won't cost considerably more, and will make the outside a nice shiny uniform color. Make sure they use the silicone plugs on the threaded holes so you don't have to chase the threads and risk chipping the coating. Also, if you are considering altering the intake you can use the propane or MAPP gas torch aluminium brazing sticks Lumiweld to do the patching' filling, recontouring and then have it coated and nobody will know the difference once that's done!

Huh? This bodes not well...

Alas, the demise of public education. It costs you 33% more than what you would buy for a coupe. Not 3X as much. (restrain myself....) If you don't have welding knowledge, or experience, then complete panels wouldn't do you any good either, as they have to be welded in... The effort is not that great, it's a matter of squarely sectioning the rocker and splicing it in the middle of the coupe panel, then installing it. If it takes 1/2 hour of labor per side, I'd be surprised. Same for the dogleg. It takes FAR more than that to install them, it's not '6X the effort'...if you aren't willing to work at it, then maybe car restoration is not in your cards. It takes a special kind of person to do it. If your car 'needs' rockers, doglegs, the works I'd suggest getting another chassis and starting on it, as there are plenty out there in great rustfree condition in the southwest. It will be FAR cheaper than repairing it. By my take on it 33% is 'a little bit more work' relatively speaking and the time any body shop would charge for massaging panels after installation wouldn't be any more extreme for the sectioned panels than for some that are 'relatively close' as the Tabco parts. Then again, I have complete Nissan Rockers for a 2+2, as well as Eurospec complete Quarter Panels just waiting for my 76 Fairlady Z 2/2 restoration. Now you want a rare bird, check out production numbers on 73-77 Fairlady Z 2/2's. Total Fairlady Z Production 69-77 was 78,000 or thereabouts. There were more 260Z's sent to the North American Market in one year than almost 10 years of Fairlady Production. And 2/2's were a very small percentage of that. One of the 'rarest of the rare'---far more so than any of the LHD examples. If you think 33% more than what Tabco charges for repop stuff is unreasonable (Or 6X what Tabco is totally out of this world and unreasonable...) don't even ASK or CONTEMPLATE what those babies would cost you to get from my hands. The shipping alone exceeds your 6X criteria. For one quarter panel. Matter of fact, I have had US Spec 2+2's given to me because the people didn't want them around after they got the engine out. And I've bought nice examples for less than the Quarter Panel cost to ship from Europe (from a German Collector's Stash....) And as for 'how many 2+2's do you see... One on my Eastern Driveway, One in my Western Driveway (RHD Fairlady Z 2/2-S Model), One behind my storage container (RHD Fairlady Z 2/2-L Model), One under the pepper trees in the SE corner of my property, and Four under the pepper trees on the western middle portion of my property. 4 S30's and 4 S130's... Oh, and one in the Race Trailer. It's the fastest F/PRO car on record at Bonneville and El Mirage. Yeah, it would be 'nice' to have quality parts available, but quality and cheap? Pick one.

No Datsun manufactured anywhere before 1975 had a catalyst on it. The catalysts were installed on Japan Domestic Market offerings starting with the EFI versions. If your Z came with carburettors on it, it did NOT come from the factory with a catalyst. Period. Federal cars did not get a catalyst until 1981 when the 17 digit VIN system came into being. California Spec cars had catalysts starting in 1975, and went onwards from there. Elsewhere, like in Europe, there were no catalysts or even EGR on the ZX's even in 1983. They didn't even get ECCS, they had an EFI system with an E12-80 distributor set up for a pneumatic advance/retard cannister like a 63-66 Corvair Spyder/Corsa Turbo!!!

When Porsche Turbocharged the 917, none of the currently available CV joints would handle the torque an 1100HP 5 Liter Flat-12 would put out, so they devised a novel solution for the axles: tub within a tube using rubber as a bonding agent between them to take up both torsional loads, as well as axle axial length change. To this day, smaller Formula Cars run similar doughnuts on their Halibrand Gearboxes to the axles, which incidentally are the same couplings sold for coupling 200HP Sullair Screw Compressors to their Electric Motors. Not only is the 280ZX lighter than the M5 it once was in, the traction control likely will not be incorporated so likely the tires will slip well before the driveshaft cou0pling experiences anything near failure stresses. If it was good enough on an M5 (and for the current generations of 240SX's as well...) it should handle service in a ZX with aplomb.

Why go through all that fuss for a D21? They were available with H4 aerodynamic housings factory equipped, and on higher-end models they have an HID with In-Cab filament adjustment (that little black finisher in the instrument panel left of the steering wheel and below the in-dash vent...) Can't get much more plug-n-play than factory components for the application! On an aside, John at H4 Lights would probably point out of the recall of all H4/HID conversion kits for road usage some time ago. Seems people were upset with other people being able to see better at night without getting a headache, and the DOT repealed the section allowing them for road use. Cost some distributors big money when they were caught sitting on inventory, and even more if they couldn't tell the Feds where the missing units went from their inventory. Dealing with lighting can be a serious matter. Especially if you are in Virginia... Don't even ask.

Your balance tube has a port to each runner, and the balance tube is 1/2 I.D., it should be fine. My Mikuini Manifold has 1/4" runners going to a 3/8" balance line, with the brakes hooked up at the end of that! Works fine. Initial bypass for idle speed is what you need the individual connections for, from a common metered source. The IAC is for compensation above the initial set idle speed. Remember you want to be idling with all throttle plates closed, making the vacuum signal the strongest it can be in the balance log for a good MAP resolution. So does the bonneville car with the IAC at one end, ducted similarly. If you were ONLY letting air into #6 runner (like on the mikuini manifold for the brakes) then yes, there would be an issue. The only cylinder getting any airflow would be #6. By dumping it in the balance tube...it gets, er....balanced to the others by the action mentioned above in the previous post. Remember there will be six cylinders sucking hard on that balance tube, when the throttles crack even a little bit it ceases to be much of anything more than something to look at and add weight. At idle, the balance tube makes all the air go to whatever individual cylinder is sucking hardest at that particular moment---which is why you want the 1/2" I.D....lets stuff move freely. And by making a small hole into the individual runner, you dampen the pulsations to the MAP sensor at the other end of the log through capacitance.

Cel Phone distracted him you say?

2+2 doglegs and rockers...hell, anything rearward of the windshield! Though, Honestly, you can make a pair of 2+2 rockers from three coupe rockers by sectioning out the center of the third piece and extending the other two... Similarly doglegs can be done in similar fashion, but it's a bit more involved.

NO! It means there is a signal from the ECU for them to fire---to verify the injectors are actually receiving that signal, you have to use a VOM, noid light, or maybe even stick a screwdriver or mechanic's stethescope to the injector bodies and see if you can hear them 'clicking' open and closed. If you don't, then the problem is in the wiring between the ECU sending the signal, and the Injectors (ECU is the injector's ground path...) or the power circuit to the "+" side of the injector connections. Polarity technically matters, but it should cycle with the connections reversed---it just won't work 'properly' the car can run with reverse polarity solenoids, just maybe not well. My guess is since the plugs are dry, either hte injectors are not opening or you have pulsewidth too low. The suggestion to spray ether (starting fluid) in the inlet is a good one---it tells you that your spark indeed is happening at the right time to roll the engine. And narrows it to 'fuel delivery' which I think is the point you have reached at this point. The problems like this generally end up being wiring related, and this would be my bet here as well.

To differentiate between lifter tick and rod knock simply disconnect random plug wires and note if the 'tick' goes away. Rods #1 and 5 usually are the culprit, disconnect them both and start the engine. If there is no load on the rod it won't tick. 0 degrees is interesting, what is the MAXIMUM temperature you are obtaining? It may indeed call for a 5W oil. Windchill is irrelevant to mechnical items, do don't pay any attention to that at all. Ambient temperature is what matters for the oil. It could be that the bottom end is knocking waiting to get lubed up due to a weak oiling system. A good mechanical gauge will tell you that. The FSM has a table which shows what weight oil to use. Where I'm at, I get by with straight weight 30 in the winter months, and 40 in the summer. I don't like Multi-Vis, and don't use it unless I'm forced. The Bonneville Car runs straight 50 wt and we prelube before start, so it's different. You could try bottowing an 'accusump' and prelube similarly to see if the doesn't rattle on startup. Seems to me you are rushing to fix an ''item'' that may not really be an issue at all. But then, that's me.

The vent lines are grossly oversized for what they need to be. I have replaced several vent hose setups using 8 and 10mm lines aas opposed to the factory 15mm lines. I use nylon barbed adapters to change from one size to the other at or near the tank. This allows you to use as little '5/8"' Gasoline Vapor hose (expensive) as possible, substituting normal carburetted fuel line in 3/8" or 1/4" to do the venting. This has worked well. All you need to do is make sure the high points on the tank all have a clear unobstructed vent. Many times I have dropped a tank and found those 5/8" heater hose blockoff caps on there! If those high point vents are obstructed then you get a BIG air bubble at the top of the tank and will not be able to get a good fill to full capacity. The smaller lines are easy to route, and in some cases you can fit them all through one opening in the deck out back, allowing you to 'cap' the other ones in the rear of the car's decking with the aforementioned heater hose cap---positive seal against exhaust fuem entrance! I use a JDM filler neck on one of my cars...it simply had a 1/4" dump behind the right rear wheel for any gasoline expansion. It's sooooo non-evap compliant! Actually, putting a later mode EVAP cannister back there, or one from a Geo Metro (really small one!) would work on the one where I made that high point loop and K&N filter setup. I just have run out of stock on Geo EVAP cannisters. They fit nicely in the wheel well of a 260 to 'clean up' the engine bay as well...keeping us all green and clean and happy long-term. The tank needs to be vented to allow for filling (as you have experienced) and to prevent the tank filler and stuch from being sucked down like a crushed beer can during long highway runs where the fuel level changes considerably. I've seen filler necks sucked down FLAT from electric pumps pulling fuel out of the tank! You need some sort of vent for the system to function properly. Those that say otherwise, or claim to not have one usually have vent hoses so rotted they can't hold any pressure in the tank if they tried! They have an uncontrolled vent and just don't know it. You need an external vent to accomplish this. The venting of the top of the tank to the filler neck will allow complete filling, but will not accomodate for fuel expansion and the draw that happens whiledriving down the road---with a filler neck high-point venting, you would still need an external vent for makeup air and to allow for offgassing. Venting to a small EVAP cannister would prevent the 'raw gas smell' after shutdown if all is corked up properly.

Let's put some numbers up on what a stock manifold sacrifices in the way of flow, shall we? JeffP had 2XXCFM through the intake port, when matched with a 44mm Cannon Manifold suitably ported by B.C. Gerolamy. This same port, when mated to a stock manifold which had been Extrude-Honed to a mirror finish and had a slight 'anti-reversionary' lip (manifold smaller than port in the head) flowed 30CFM less. This was at 25" Hg. Imagine what that number is when under pressure. Vacuum pressure drop over an orifice is one thing, the pressure drop over that same orifice can be an astounding number. What it translates to is much more flow at much less observed pressure on the boost gauge in the plenum. 8psi at, say 220CFM is a LOT different Pounds Per Hour number than 8psi at say 180CFM. And the pounds per hour is what ultimately will determine what horsepower you will achieve.

These parts are almost universal in application. BMW AFM's are available that work great as AFMs on 3 liter conversions, TPS is TPS as long as the connector attaches and the contacts are good, most of the issues that arise are from pins in the wrong place on one make compared with another. Having a pin removal tool makes moving your harness pins around super simple. I have grafted Toyota AFM connectors onto Z harnesses for years becuase they have gold plated contacts.... I have been a 'pin cannibal' from Toyota Supras for about as long. Check out the Bosch stuff in Volvos/BMW/Mercedes as well, Tefzel insulated wires, much better rubber on the backside boots, quick release injector clips. My personal favorite is the old BMW and VW TPS's...which literally are two old-fashioned MicroSwitches set up on brackets with a cam on the throttle shaft. They were FAR easier to adjust than the new-improved 'Combi Switch' in the little black box. Those sealed microswitches were bulletproof in terms of function. And they lasted forever. Next time you find an old 68 VW Type 3 in the junkyard, check out the TPS setup, I'll lay money the switches still work flawlessly after 40 years! The only problem we ever had with them was when ham-fisted mechanics bent the brackets during careless maintenance. The MAP sensor on that car was the size of the small Rolling-Rock Shorty Cans! Manually calibrated as well... Ahhh, those were the days!

What is this 'rust' you guys keep referring to? Muahahahhaaha!

My personal favorite: pack it away and don't get mad about it. One day, you will run across the guy. It's worked for me several times over the years. Out of the blue someone has dealings with my company and I'm in a position to either help or hinder the situation. At which time I usually don't help it along much. I got screwed out of close to $10,000 in lawyers fees over someone suing me. Later on, less than two years later, I got the chance to call on his business 'as the authorised factory representative in the territory' for an inspection of equipment he was trying to broker to us. About $50,000 worth. Not doing anything unethical, I simply said I had to come inspect the equipment on his site. He wouldn't let me on site to do it. He tried to circumvent me and sell direct to the corporate offices. I simply sent photos from 'over the fence' of what he was selling....which immediately killed the deal. So yeah, he cost me $10K in a nusiance lawsuit. He also didn't sell his scrap to us in a one-time good deal (which is his specialty, customers burned thussly never come back, but 'he's got his'!) and lost out on $50K. And that led into him being decertified as a rep for our company as well, loosing even MORE income from those sales (which I took direct!) Funny thing was, when I took those companies direct as a Factory Rep, he didn't litigate against me. Perhaps litigating against a 4 Billion Dollar Company wasn't to his liking. Especially since I 'won' the last one he brought for the same stuff. Then again, you can always beat him to a pulp with American Hickory Baseball Bat and burn the evidence. There is a quick satisfaction in that as well. But is it worth it for $300? If it's principle, then yes. So there's two quick options. One from two totally divergent schools of thought!

Yeah I'm spoiled, I can drive by Diest or Crow and pick up new harnesses. And custom stuff can be sewen while-I-wait if the day is slow... And for the Cost of Crow harnesses new...it's almost a no-brainer!

Useless knowledge from 'The Vault'...