Tony D

The DHLA's likely have the turbo shaft seals and emulsion tubes. The emulsion tubes richen under boost. It's all standard parts that can be had easily enough. The 40DHLA's were good enough for OEM Fittment in Blowthrough Turboservice for the early Maserati BiTurbo. But as Daeron says, for an N/A the 40's may be a bit small. 45's would likely be better, though for a street engine and if you aren't concerned with total horsepower output, they would work nicely for around town driving with nice throttle response. They will just fall off in HP above a set RPM range. You can upsize the chokes and get fairly close to the HP you would get with a street setup with 45's... It's a tossup, really. If it's what you can get, it's what you can get!

This was a conversation at the GroupZ Installation Banquet. Someone was asked if they checked Hybrid Z already... It's like BRAPP was there, reading our minds, and posted almost at the exact time that conversation was taking place! What, were your ears burning?!?!?!?!?! "I wonder how well it's going to be able to cover each swap." Basically, the way I look at it is once they get a set of mounts to bolt to the LS to get the secondary mount location into the same place as a SBC, from there it's just bolting it in. I just did it in two sentences, so that leaves 143 and 15/16th pages left for particulars!

Yes, the Euro Panels are sidemarker free. They have a different P/N from JDM and what is on these for Germany. I can't see the difference (that I remember offhand) from what I have on my 2/2, but it's probably something in the bumper recess, or in the connection near the roof---the stiffeners that are inside. I'll know when I peel mine off I guess. Oooh, 70's sunroof. There is a welded panel repair that I saw done for $300 on Gearhead's car. He did the gob-job weld, and the body shop heat worked and srunk his warpage back to skimcoat smoooooth. That they fixed his warpage (had bondo almost 1/2" thick I think!!!) was what got me to take the next car there to fix the 'goat damage'. They fixed mine for slightly more than Gearheads. He got a special deal since he knew the guys, but I didn't feel it was unreasonable. I've done roofs before, screw that! If I were to do it again, I wouldn't do the pinchweld replacement method. I'd cut close to the curve near the perimiter, and weld on that point instead of the center of the roof. It's stronger, less prone to warp, and easier for me to longboard back to a proper curve without any waves. Plus it doesn't buckle when I start bearing down with the quadratic sander like it does in the middle of the roof! The new MIG's do wonderful thin metal welding in stitch mode. You just need the other roof for the patch panel. Doing a flanged lap weld and then grinding off the excess underneath is also possible as amerpage can be lower and the blowthrough propensity of a butt weld is minimized. But you got to have that flanger! Most body shops will have that capability. I'll do most anything on the car, but when it comes to the roof, I got better things to do! LOL I can do it, but if Ican pay someone to have it done in a day---LET EM! If I had competent help for the shrinking procedure I might do it...but that shrinking is a PITA and nobody wants to be 'dolly boy' inside the car any more!

Agreed, not the same. With the stuff you can get form Tabco, why go through the bother of 'harvesting' old sheetmetal from another car anyway? Seems like making work. It's one thing if it's not available. But if it is available, why bother with the extra work for an inferior compromise?

One of the primary reason they are 'wicked rare' is that total JDM production of the S30 and S31 Series Vehicles from 1969 to 1977 was only about 78,000 units. This is about equivalent to the Export production number of units sent to the North American Market in 1974. A Fairlady Z is about as rare as a 1974 North American 260Z as a general marque. TO nail down a particular year, there is nothing except for 'specials' they did like the ZAP Z and the Black Pearl that rivals any individual year of Fairlady Prodution number. Some years they only produced little over 1000 cars, others 10K+.

Parts and finishing materials plus 6-8 hours depending on what they are doing. Totally dependent on the shops labor rate. At even $50 an hour you're looking at that much in labor. Many roof problems are the result of stretched metal. Really, in many cases a good body man can shrink and work the creases and divots out in half the time a Re-Roof would require. Seriously, if someone sat in the middle of your roof (er, or goats decided to climb atop it because it was their hill') the damage could be repaired in 3-4 hours doing metal work and never have to mess with removing a windshield to do the pinchweld under the gasket. And that's for a good body place...not a 'sound deadening bondo slatherer' roof repair job. I was shocked to find out they could actually repair it properly quicker and cheaper than doing a total reskin on the roof!

The operation of installing the seats is what determines what valve you use. Simply buying L28 seats (hardened) and having them installed already gives you the larger valve seating area you want anway. By using stock parts you get the 'performance upgrade' for the exact same price of installing something you were going to have to install anyway! In other words, since you are replacing the seats with hardened units anyway, you may as well install the larger seats for the L28 valves and get the increased dividend of better flow at the same time. The only associated cost is buying different valves. And if you are installing NEW seats, it's false economy to try and re-use old valves! They would be getting new items installed anyway, regardless of which size seat you chose... Porting would be affected by which seats you chose as well, as larger seats allow for more bowl work. Check your head closely for corrosion. Nothing sucks more than having a head ruined by a corrosion perforation into a chamber or port after 95% of the work is done to it... Then you end up finding a heliarc welder and getting really friendly with it's operator to salvage all the money you put into the head. E31's are old, and usually the most corroded of the cores out there. Check VERY closely. The E88 is a popular alternative if you have one available. They were available new (bare) till a few years ago, so corrosion is not an issue on them. One day Paul...one day I'll scan those receipts and send them to you... I know where they are. Honest!

Probably, but I know where I can get a Bridgeport locally. I don't want to go back to Alabama if I don't have to! When the Transporter from Star Trek comes into being, I can zap equipment from here to there, and this whole conversation will become anachronistic!

I hear "Fish" aren't "Fish" in the land of Oz any longer. I hear they are "Water Kittens" and that "Fishing" is now "Water Kitten Hunting"... Firing a gun from a motor vehicle is a felony in most places nowadays. My my, how times have changed!

Gotta see it! The reading of the will is priceless! Talk about having the last word. Other than that, my kid kept nudging me throughout the movie. Apparently I've used similar phraseology towards him and have a similar intolerance in regards to todays youths... And all this time I thought he wasn't listening! I can believe it was filmed in Michigan. Been there, seen that! LOL

You got to wonder how this happens. I mean, having production jobs to do that pay big money is one thing. But if you're scheduled into the production slot, the time frame shouldn't be that difficult to pin down. Sometimes (especially with dedicated engine shops) I got to wonder how they set priorities. A lot of times the places I see with a tag and tracking system are the places that get me the parts on time and don't make excuses. The guys that take in the parts and set it on a shelf and write a tag and stick the tag in a box...or on the desk...or under the part... Those places seem to sit on things for months at a time. ADDHD. Whomever comes in when they are setting up machines and says 'I need this today' or 'I need this quick' gets the stuff put on the machine and away they go. I hope those guys are paying out the butt and the machinist is raking in premium charges to make it worthwhile to keep shelving my project... That's what I usually tell them when I show up and ask for the delayed discount for being so understanding. I got six flywheels lightened for about $10 each after letting them sit for six months someplace and then just showing up. "You said they would be done five and a half months ago! I figured I wasn't in a hurry, but DAMN dude! I didn't need them in a hurry THEN... BUT I DO NOW!" Done the next day at 7AM. But damn! Anybody want to buy a Bridgeport and go into business? LOL

Hyuri has the family concept down. You can put most anything into anything as long as it's in the same family. You can't put a Detroit 4-71 into a Datsun 1200 Truck, they won't pass it. But it flies on the salt! LOL The Diesel Option is also correct. You can do a diesel conversion and pretty much duck everything but a smoke check. Importing a current-technology BMW Turbodiesel would make for a nice running and high-mileage capable Z! That 2.0 Turbodiesel in Frank280ZX's car was pumping over 325 ft-lbs of torque and something like 215HP when it was finished with the chip and boost upgrade (188 and something like 288ft-lbs of torque with just the chip and stock boost!) That would make a Z scoot. Pushed that M3 (320) to over 250kph! Quiet and efficient. Close to 40mpg in some cases. I'd do it. Hell, I still got to get up to Ray's place to pick up his diesel conversion cast-off stuff for my 280Z conversion for the commuter Z. A 280Z with an LD28 and Air Conditioning... Though, frankly, I'm thinking a 280ZX with power steering, automatic, and A/C could be a nice conversion to diesel as well. If only I could get the fuel pump and turbo bits for the LD28T, I'd go THAT route and be happy happy happy!

Grey Matter has a tendency to mute that effect once it's all over the device after impact... Bad Taste? I'm no Charley Tuna and never claimed to be... and it's full moon and past midnight and the rum is flowing. I blame the rum for my comment. That's it, it's the rum...

You only had a week in UAE? I ended up there (er... BuHasa, actually....) for six weeks. It was nice to be awake during the meetings the first three days. The battle wasn't lag causing me to doze off... Not having a damned thing to do other than watch aljazeera TV in the camp caused tryptophanic overdose effects! That, and walking 5km daily in 48C heat. Mad Dogs and Tony D.... I tried to explain that concept 'pre-lag' to a guy I worked with before he took a flight to Guam. He brushed me off saying he had 'been to Guam before!' Yeah, aboard ship! Kinda a different time zone thing... He ended up being finished with the job before noon the first day he was there. So he goes back to the hotel room, and laysg down on the bed in his hotel room to watch a movie before he left for the airport. This was 11AM... "Next thing I knew, it was 2AM and I find out there's not another flight for two days!" Yeah...been to Guam before. Riiight! Gotcha bud! LOL

thesamba.com should be able to point you in the right direction. Though a lot of the VW forums are populated by Honda-esque flamers...beware! The Samba guys are nice and what you would expect from people in Microbusses...what was that skib said???

"Really Slick and Small 0-5V Adaptor?" Puke info, dude! I didn't see it in the three links, and that sounds like something I can add to my Megasquirt!!! Daeron, good photo, it does show exactly what I was saying about 1280 vs 1320, I wasn't saying you were contradictory. At least this time! But back on that 0-5 vdc adaptor.... That in conjunction with the datalog package for the old spare laptop would make some nice data acquisition for some projects that are coming up!

Jeezsus, dude. I did EXACTLY that! You simply couldn't comprehend the math. Maybe with three more degrees you will be able to comprehend that...

Argh, that means editing and posting, doesn't it. I want to go home! Tell ya what... I'm probably going to Kuwait in the next two days and will have plenty of time to fiddle with this photoshop crap and get them up. I already screenshotted N, S, E, & W views, which I couldn't do at the other sites... So I'll annotate appropriately and post in a couple of days!

Likely they will be competing against our team at Reno-Fernley in May....so I'll watch and see. We are going it alone, based on my purchase of SIX Z-Cars in mid 2006 for the grand total of $500 (one of which has already been sacrificed at the altar of Hapless of the Holidays Thunderhill LeMons 2006). Parts sales alone have made this a truly no-cost event as far as the race car goes. Now the safety items? Tires, Brakes, Harness.... That's probably damn near three times what the three cars cost. The only saving grace is that three of them are an identical 77 280Z, and almost EVERYTHING that was safety-related and cost us money was transferrable to the next chassis. Hell, we still got a 280ZX out ofthe deal that some people saw running at MSA with Frank280ZX driving! It's a LeMons canidate as well, but I kinda gave it to Frank. It's nice that the roll hopp in the S30 and S130 are interchangable... It didn't hurt scrap prices spiked to nearly 300$ a ton to dispose of the old wrecked carcass earlier this year! Still several left to consume... And parts sales of fenders differentials, etc have financed a good portion of the rest. I actually had an offer of $1500 for one of the cars AS IS WHERE IS... I think I should have jumped at that and painted one of the other cars with the proceeds. But trying to segregate my accounts gets difficult with different cars sucking revenue streams all their own! So yeah the car may be relatively cheap...But sleeping accomodations, GAS, the tow rig, etc etc etc... Don't think this is a 'no bucks' option. In terms of racing dollars, running your local Auto X is FAR cheaper. But as far as true enduro racing goes...this is about as cheap as you can get it!

Worthless without ratios known. Get the ratios sorted out by counting revolutions, and then you will know what it is, wether it's a Z 'Sports Option' part (in reality, just a JDM application for a truck or some other vehicle) or a Roadster unit, or someting with truly interesting gearsets. They are all listed in the old Nissan Motorsports Catalog, and you can determine it from there. Biggest thing would be to determine if fifth is overdrive or direct-drive. That will peak interest immediately as it separates the wide ratio boxes to some more race-specific close ratio gearsets. P&PG helps as well in eliciting information and constructive commentary.

The laminate in between the layers can do strange things if it has 'shrunk' over time. Like curl back when cut. The glass simply adheres to the laminate substrate. Cut a tightly stretched piece of saran wrap on the top of a glass...the edges curl upwards slightly. Imagine if the tension was uneven and you had little pieces of glass firmly adhered to one side and not the other---it curves where it can relieve the tension. It's not like a bullet through metal where plastic deformation occurs. It gets stretched, then relaxed...somewhat. Follow?

The MSN site gives a nice clear view of my yard---though somewhat dated. There are only 19 Z's visible. Definately pre 2006! Though I now know where my neighbor parks the Forklift I sold him! I'll admit, this an Google Earth changed the way I park cars in the back yard. Note I said 'Visible' above. I'm finding good old trees and shadows play tricks on the electric eye and I've altered parking plans accordingly. Soon, I suspeect I'll be putting up netting like over Douglas Aircraft during WWII to prevent the surveilance!

I'm with Tim on this last point. What you want is a thermal barrier, not a heat disbursing agent. The thick ceramic coatings hold the heat IN the components and PREVENT transfer to others. And similarly they can act as barriers to other sources of radiant heat. This was why I did the Corvair Experiment, and mentioned it above. The difference between the FLAT WHITE VHT on the tubes and the FLAT BLACK on the tubes led me to believe the color DOES make a difference in heat rejection/absorption. Coating the same tubes, in the same engine, in the same car flat black resulted in a 10 degree INCREASE from the baseline oil temperature, compared to a 15 degree DECREASE when painted flat white in the exact same area. There are a lot of guys who coat the exhaust to keep it looking decent (er...JeffP) but in terms of thermal transmission it probably isn't the thing you want. For that the thick ceramic coatings like JetHot seem to be the ticket. I know you don't burn nearly as bad when you stupidly lay the back of your hand into a Jet-Hot Silver header while the engine is running compared to an uncoated one!

Roadster Transmission, anybody? I mean, S30-6225 has one, but it's a Fairlady Z... Doesn't mean they didn't come in by the containerload from JDM parts brokers in the 80's...

That gauge is suitable for TIT TOT readout only. Someplace where you are looking for a 400 degree difference in steady-state loading. Look at Aircraft Spruces "Engine Analyzers" with 6 EGTs, plus TIT and TOT...they alert you to hot pairs, which cylinders come to temp first, you can set a differential alarm. Pricey, but if you are into analysis longterm (they can datalog onboard for two+ hours in some cases!) this is the thing you want. As for Analog---you show me how you will see 1280 and 1320 on that short sweep.... Not happening. For analysis you want hard numbers and a digital readout. It's not long term, it's developmental. I have one of those very gauges, and as I recalled, that gauge is even specified for TIT / TOT. I'm not a fan of the short-sweep Westach instruments. I've had a CHT gauge on #3 cylinder of the my VW Microbus since 1982 and while it's nice to look at the resolution SUCKS! I'd much rather have a stepper motor controlled Defigauge with a 270 degree sweep. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/ei-engineanalyzer3.php http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/westcombos6.php I used one of these initially, but got sick of the Westech display/resolution quality, so I substituted a Digital EGT Gauge and used it with their thermocouples and rotary switch and was MUCH happier. For $280 it's not bad, but you can buy the individual components and use a much better digital K Type 'universal' thermocouple reader (IF YOU HAVE A DIGITAL MULTIMETER YOU CAN USE THAT!!!) and you will get much better empirical results from the readouts. The 100ms scan rate on my Fluke updates WAY faster than the analog gauge can (especially after switching the rotary dial!), with FAR better resolution! Down to .1 degree at the lower temps. You can use this setup to then check radiator in and out temperatures. Turbo inlet and discharge air temperatures. Oil cooler bypass temperatures. Once you have the rotary switch, and a good digital readout, you can buy thin thermocouples to stick just about ANYWHERE you want to quantify heat transfer efficiency. You can ready CHT on each spark plug with it with the right adapter rings for the plugs... For the cost it can be a VERY versatile tool. To be honest I stole mine from Uncle Sugar while doing a 500 hour on a Lycoming...just comdemned it and took it home. I'm not porud. For $647.43 a month, I figured I was probably saving someone's life removing it and putting a fresh one into the airframe. Yeah, that's it! Just as an aside here....which gauge do you think is going to get second billing for drivers eyepath in the Turbo Bonneville Car?