Tony D

Oh, since Frank 280ZX is sitting across the living room from me right now going "where is the guy?" I suspect his laptop will be blazing away an answer, if he hasn't already hit it up! Flying home Monday....

Nothing is as satisfying as being protested and having your modifications banned because it makes your old POS spank the crap out of something 30 years newer, and 30X as expensive... We lost a Bonneville record because the former record holder was upset we broke his record by 14mph, in a "Fuel" class, running standard gasoline. The stewardt's decision is final, and we had the record pulled because we didn't have 'enough modifications or power adders to enter the class'... Hehehehehehe....

Oh yeah, now I find this after making 8 trips to Compton/Watts in two days to haul back 240s... Hmmmmmm. My wife would shoot me as the 6" Atlas I have is still packed in the box after the last move... And my eye is on a 12" Atlas in Orange... Hmmmmmmmmm...

You were right, Derek! I stumbled across a small foundry in Costa Mesa that was agreeable to do the pours if I can supply decent forms or cores. So my job just got a bit easier as well! Thanks for that suggestion on finding one---strange thing was I found it looking at a Citroen DS, that revealed three Renault R5 Turbos, a Twin Turbo Motec'd Diablo, and an LT-1 conversion in progress on a Ferrari 412...as well as a complete 510 Racer that was up for sale. While looking at the 510, they started knocking out sand, and it was like "Oh, hey, that's a short-run foundry!" Right there, passed it countless times but never ventured to the back of the complex to check anything out. But that DS was calling me....LOL

Damn, that dyno chart looks almost like JeffP's dyno chart from last Thursday---just lower on the scale. I couldn't convince him to run a pull from 1500 in fourth gear for a true dispelling of the 'turbos have a non-linear response' myth, but the curve looks very much like yours, Jeff! My kid loved the rides in your car at the Auto-X BTW. He now understands why Frank and all of us call the 260 'The Blue Turd, A.K.A. The Wallowing Pig'! LOL

Coooool!

WHY in the world don't you simply tap the lower section of the manifold and install the PCV? That's what I did on several cars. If you have the turbo manifold around when you do the swap, it makes a nice template for locating the hole. Failing that, you can stick the PCV in the stock turbo PCV Hose and kind of line it up to where it needs to go. BTW, under boost, PCV is provided by the turbine inlet suction and the differential across the air filter... The normal plenum PCV is acting as a check-valve preventing boost from blowing directly into the crankcase. If you have excess pressure after making the modifications, more than likely it's 'ring time'... as well as 'ring land time'...

The Bellville Washers arrived today with the UPS guy. Each package has the supplier's name and phone number, as well as a part number. If anybody overseas wants to follow up to see if these people will ship directly to you, have at it! Here is the information from the package: GARDNER SPRING 1-800-331-3263 MB1250-062 Bellevelle Disc Spring Package Qty: 12 1.250 x 0.0630 x 0.062 Good Luck, keep us posted! And the boost solenoids shipped the 27th to my place, slated for delivery on the 3rd, Xander. Yesterday while harvesting pulleys from the GM section of the PYP in Pedley, I got 5 each of the GM connectors from the washer reservoirs for you as well. Couldn't remember if it was the sensor or the washer pump motor connector, so I snagged 'em both.

Yeah, was this one of the 'good' replicas with the undertray that sealed to the radiator core? i have seen some where I have had to make a tray over 10" wide to even come close to what the Nissan Made G-Noses did... And was that with or without headlight covers? I saw something from Fedex Tracking coming my way from Charlotte, arriving on the 3rd---did you guys send me a package? Interesting results, especially about the Type 3. Good job! Thanks! OH, and this datum came out JUST IN TIME! The car is going up to El Mirage for the season opener this weekend, and the radiator sealing results will come in handy... I will be discussing changing the undertray from our Non-OEM G-Nose to my OEM unit from Japan with the larger tray. We already knew blocking the radiator inlet increased the top speed quite a bit, now it is confirmed empirically. GREAT JOB! And again: THANKS A MILLION GUYS!

Well, made an order and we are heading over to McMaster Carr right now for Frank to pick up his (and by proxy, Xander's) 12 packs of Bellville Washer Springs. The cost for a package of 12 is $7.46. Picking up 5 packages, so Frank and Xander can screw it up a few times, before having to call me for replacements! LOL Well, we'll head there after going to the dyno. But in the grand scope of things, they will be acquired.

The CFM is a misleading number as far a capabilities go... The CFM of a stock 50mm T/B was posted somewhere a while ago---say something like 390 or 420 cfm. Will the runners in the stock EFI setup support that at 6500rpm+? The CFM potential of dual SU's bored straight through at 45mm is almost 2X what the stock T/B is, and with larger runners.... You also run into tip-in response issues, blah blah blah. Just keep in mind that a Cosworth Vega (2300cc's) worked fine from the factory with twin 50mm Throttle Bodies on a plenum-styled manifold, and when hotrodded that same manifold was used well over 10K rpm (hey, Cosworth know how to design a head, and the Iron Duke below it didn't know what hit it!) I'm running about for MSA now in headless chicken mode, so don't have time to search the forums for the exact numbers, but I know it was out there. The comparison was that triple Mikuinis with 34mm or 36mm chokes had a CFM potential of 1400 or 1500 CFM and it was in response to someone insisting a 390 Holley was 'far big enough for anything on a Z-Car'--yet 1500 CFM potential makes more HP, and is still driveable. With EFI, the way CFM is measured (at what depression) is different, and the velocity through the hole is not as critical as a carb due to atomization concerns. Total velocity in the runners is critical, but at some point with EFI, you end up with a Tip-In monster and either need a non-linear linkage or other way of controlling off-idle or off-seated throttle excursions.

L20B Rods would work well, that is what we are running in our L20A Powered Bonneville Car. That car's Peak Power occurs at 8750rpm, and our shiftpoints are between 9300, and 9500rpms. Matter of fact, we are taking that to the Dyno this afternoon to recal the ECU for the new headers and full exhaust we put on the car in the off season, and then it's off to the races next weekend up at El Mirage. Maybe I should charge the video camera and see if I can capture the sounds....muahahahaha Anyway, I digress. We were able to get a tolerable ring stack using the L20B rods in the engine, of course we have custom pistons made---I'd say that is the route you're headed anyway. Make sure you verify the deck height on your block so you don't run into a previously decked unit that has your pistons popping up, say, a few thou from a previous deckheight alteration from a warped block.

Got to +2 for "Red Barchetta", though Black Sunshine always had a place in the heart...it would be sooo easy for Rob Zombie to do a 'Z-Car Remix' (as he is wont to do on occasion with his stuff) and with the words 'turbocharged and Z-Car inserted in two places, nothing else need be changed to have an ultimate rock Z-Song... Of course, given recent happenings with many of the youths (and harkening back to the years of 1980-81... the timelessness of Mr. Ted Nugent and "Terminus Eldorado" makes for a nice obscure romp through Automotive Indulgence as well! LOL (Somewhere in there "Wango Tango" and the Turbocharged Maserati BiTuro Reference may explain my starting down that rount about that time as well....but different album) Ergh, I said "album'..... Excuse me, let me translate for the youngsters: "CD"

"The white zone is for loading and unloading only".... Oh, "My Z-Car Mary"... LOL

Check Out ECU-882 (AKA: Redline Weber Fuel Management) In fact, anyone familiar with the Megasquirt should consider stopping by their site to check out the ECU-882. The interface is VERY similar to the MS, but the setup if much more powerful, running a 140mhz processor. If you can do the Megasquirt, the Redline/Pantera system will look very similar.

Is that car painted black? Midnight blue? Waitaminit, in 48 hours I'll see it anyway. I'll wait till then. But I know who it is at 10PM Friday night if the phone rings and someone is asking me if I still have my towbar handy... LOL See you at MSA Bryan! Nice shots. I like the Tie-Rod Idea.

Why 15 psi of boost, or 20? The JCR setup formerly was a complete setup, now they separated the components simply because NOBODY (but you) seemed to want the components as a package, each person haveing their own preferances as to what EFI setup they wanted to install. As for idiot-proof instructions and easily installed, easily tuned---what is wrong with the JCR setup for $8K complete? The SC portion is only $3400, and then EFI adds that again to the mix when it's all said and done. If you got $8K, you can have what you want. I really don't see the point of the question given those realities. A simple pulley change puts the JCR kit right to 17psi---Laverne Burkhardt has been running that setup for 12+ years now that I know of, and probably longer. When dealing with imported high-performance parts for a vehicle that has been out of production for more than 30 years, there is (out side of the VW Realm) very little spooner-friendly kits. Unfortunately you will have to expend some effort to get what you want, rarely if ever will things just land on your doorstep and be exactly what you want. Life's like that.

That cam spec is pretty stout, although this goes back to the 'what do the cam numbers really mean' question. I would think the SU's would drop off quite a bit of top end horsepower. Sure they might work but with all the hassle of getting a WBO2 hooked up and screwing with the SU's to tune them, the effort is just as much as getting the SK's running. If you can tuen the SU's, tuning the SK's is nothing different. Synch at idle, Synch off idle, optimize idle mixture, start chacking progression. IMO, getting the jetting right (if it's even off by much...) is easier on SK's due to having segregated jets for each section of the operation curve: idle/progression, main run over 3K, air bleeds and emulsion tubes to determine how those mains come on and where they start really adding fuel. I believe they use standard Weber jets, so getting parts---again IF you need them, shouldn't be that hard. As for 'rebuilding' them, do they even run now? I see people take stuff apart all the time---and I swear it's because they just wanted to take it apart, or think that taking something apart will miraculously solve something without expending any effort on the front-end towards diagnosis. I don't know how many times people have bought a car, driven it home and because there was a cugh or sputter the FIRST thing they do is take the carbs all apart and perform augury. In the end bad plug wires....but a month down the road we've got a bunch of new parts on the engine and a frustrated owner that spent a lot of money doing not much of anything. I'd see if they run first, and go from there. Usually the jetting has pretty wide lattitude on what will 'run'---using a WBO2 will get you closer, faster. Doing power pulls some secluded place will probably get you dialed in pretty well, and a couple of pulls on the dyno afterwards should dial them in for the duration. After that you check idle synch, idle mixture...but really aren't changing anything once they're set. My Mikuinis on the 73 were synched and set sometime in 1991, and well over 75K mile ago. Idle mixture screws have had a lot of 1/4 turn this way, 1/4 turn that way....but nothing's changed since then. Triple carbs, once set up, are just as 'trouble free' as anything else. It's people who have apenchant for taking everything loose and starting over every tune up (or every time they hear a cough) that give them the 'maintenance intensive' reputation. I'd stick with the bigger carbs, they will give you just as good, if not better mileage than SU's anyway....as well as positively more horsepower on the top end.

And of course, I'm on vacation... On the wrong coast.

My bud had an old 900 with the 16 valve turbo motor from a newer model in it. He used the Canadian-Spec windsheild washer tank in the wing for his methanol anti-detonant tank (something like 2.5 gallon tank, slick as hell, fit right down inside the wing!). That car was scary! Running 21psi+ from a rolling start at like 40mph, the car would light both front tires up and start smoking them while it slowed down, then he would lift throttle to let it hook and launch hard with a quick shift to fourth. Ended up trading it for a lot of work around the house (like a new driveway, painting of the house, trim work, RV Pad...) from a pair of Somoan Brothers. They came over for a test drive, and he took them up onto the 405. I could hear when he did his usual 'smoke em at 40' routine coming up the ramp. All the one brother could say was: "No, no, no, I don't need to drive it now. Yeah I want it, when can we start?" I guess when he looked over at the guy in the passengers seat his eyes were wide as pieplates and when he asked if he was O.K. all the guy could mutter was 'Uh Huh, Uh Huh, Uh Huh!' Got to love a company who considers 15psi of boost "not worth mentioning, nor worth putting a boost gauge in the vehicle"

Yep, I had to wait till someone retired and only then did I get his machine. A Cybertig modular unit (state of the art, 1975!) I have seen the EXACT same model that I got (with coolant cart, three bottles of gasses, foot pedal, attachments out the ying-yang, the owners/instruction manual AND original bill of sale!) sell for almost 10X what I paid for it ($350). It was worth it---with this machine there is NOTHING I can't get done. This was an old welder, but functioned fine and I watched it in operation to the day I came to pick it up! Having to run a 100A 220 line for it was small potatoes...for the price I got it, I'd buy a GENERATOR to run it if I had to! Same place I bought my Bridgeport as well. Curiously, it was new in 1975 as well... See the pattern here? LOL Now, if I could only convince him to sell me that 12X48 Atlas Lathe he has (same price, $350...but then he backed out at the last minute and kept it for himself to 'look at in the storage unit') the guy has EVERY attachment for that thing... and I reallllly want that gem. Same situation: old equipment owned by a German who emigrated after the war and believed in maintaining his tools. Curiously, he also was very particular who he would sell to as well. I had a cohort that worked with me, who he refused to sell anything to because he felt he was not a 'craftsman' as he'd watched him use a hammer a bit too much over the years...if you catch my drift. That was kind of funny. Guess it made me feel special that he'd sell me his two biggest pieces of equipment from his shop as well. "I know you will take care of them!" was the last thing he said after we loaded up. Watch for shops closing, or being reposessed. Deals are out there, you just have to keep that money in reserve and be able to move NOW to get them.

That's a Stromberg, but close enough. Anything that is applicable to the conversion on that site (TR6's) would be applicable to the Z. But the adaptors they make don't fit our domes... There are those who have converted SU's and are running them with Megasquirt. They lurk here. Occasionally I am their unwitting mouthpiece...

I agree, I have done dozens of these and NEVER had to 'weld in material'. What manifold? I use primarily P82's and N42's--with the occasional turbo manifold (forget the casting number on it). All have been close on the bottom, but nowhere near cutting through.

I wired three to one driver, and three to the other driver. My logic: if one driver dies, I can jump the wire over to the other and run it home, or at least run it on three cylinders to a safe parking spot. In reality, depending on which year Nissan you have, they actually had six drivers. they only supplied POWER to one wire. The grounds were individually run to drivers that pulsed the injectors through gating the ground. You can run simultaneous and wire three injectors to each driver. They are not mutually exclusive. The Req Fuel constant will determine pulsewidth and deliver accordingly, regardless of mode selected. it's just that some engines will run better alternating two squirts, and others simultaneous two squirts---it depends on your fuel delivery and pressure fluctuations. Alternating one squirt seemed to keep my idle smooth and fuel pressure constant as opposed to simultaneous two squirts. Clear as mud now? LOL

Actually, there are people who attended the 95 Atlanta National Convention who will SWEAR they talked with Jim Cook at his booth. They will describe him as a larger man, with a beard, personable, though somewhat embarrased to talk about racing exploits. Not that I'm disagreeing that he indeed did die some time before the 95 Convention. But sometimes it's just best to smile, shake people's hands, and try not to let your embarrassment show over their expression of 'reincarnation through omission'...