Tony D

The brakes are conducive to that...being that I'm 70kg more than the last time I did those...I'm thinking until I get backup transportation (and the fact I've got a new safety glass windshield in it) I might have to wait for a while before pop-nosing the van. Much easier in a drop side pickup or dual cab....if the aren't rear engined! Hell, it's got an water/oil cooler, and water cooled turbo to boot!

This really is not true in every case. Simply not true. As I said, for run of the mill cars (Geo Prism, Corolla, etc...) a 50% value of blue book is generally assigned? THIS CAR FOLLOWS THOSE GUIDELINES FROM WHAT IS PRESENTED. BUT... Get into "collector cars" especially rarer ones, and that the car HAS a title (regardless of type) is far more important.

Washing the title doesn't necessarily work unless you leave a state that has "salvage" or "flooded" on the record. In fact, these days insurance company databases are a bit more sophisticated than states. They are the ones at risk, and realizing the states incompetence in some of these matters, took it upon their industry to start recording losses. A "salvage" car in California likely will retain that it's lifetime...only if you move to a state where "salvage" or "flooded" or other title washing is accomplished will it leave. To what end, other than deceipt and shady business practice, I don't know. Real collectors, with details in full on the life story of the car will likely ignore the title status when properly repaired. Another way to AVOID having a car "salvaged" is to refuse to allow your insurance company to pay out. No pay out, no salvage assignment. You fix it yourself! That avoids it altogether.

Pulled the wheels and discovered they are Ray's Engineering.... woot!

why not.... let us know if you wreck so your experimental sacrifice was not in vain!

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The general industry rule (and what my BANK told me when I financed a savage title car years ago) is that it's 50% of the blue book on the car in similar condition. At the time I was buying a salvaged car for $3500 on a car with a $12,900 blue book value. For collector cars, I think that number is considerably higher (more value than a daily runaround car than 50%) Even so, if this car is painted nicely and looks like a 240Z that should be selling for $12,000, then $6,000 sounds about right. And it doesn't take much to get a $12,000 insurance appraisal for insurance purposes these days: Shiny Paint, Matching Numbers complete car.... Like it or not, these cars are on the existence down curve... they aren't making them any more, and the costs of acquisition are rising. Really nobody can answer the question but you. I saw Hondas sold for full retail on salvage titles in the past....simply because they were Hondas and getting one to drive was impossible. If it's for daily driving, finding one...that is the key. If you're buying it as some sort of "investment" you will likely be sorely disappointed any way you turn, I recommend not viewing it in that light. My Condition 7 Cars are now worth more than my house. Not a one bought for more than $200. "Investments" take time to mature. Buying at near the top of the market is always a recipe for failure. Knowing they can't go much lower usually reaps better results. But nobody wants to drive a turd. Except me. I'm OK with that, shiny crow-cars are always a crapshoot.

I got turned away from the LTO Emissions Check Station today because the paperwork on my Every Turbo Van said 'diesel' and I have to get it changed before they will smog it. Bureaucracy, and the incompetents (meaning the people, not the act...) that run it. Engine number is correct & matching, and I have the Factory Service Manual on my iPhone (seriously!) to prove the Suzuki F6A engine was ALWAYS gas, and NEVER a 1500c Diesel.... Now, far be it from me to waste this opportunity, and I'd REALLY like to swap in a 1500 diesel into this little van.... but I just need the 600CC Turbo engine certified so I can drive it home! I got it all loaded with toys for the kids and if I don't show up at the school for the Christmas Party.....

Dirt in the galleyway! Starting the engine cold and then revving it would be a good way to get this going as well....if the filter valve lifts and bypasses anything sucked up the strainer goes directly into the bearings. If this one is like that....the rest of the bearings in the engine that head came off from likely are worse! This is classic contamination. and really nothing to worry about in the cam bearing...you could have it inserted and line bored again if you were really anal (or replace the towers....) but it's just in the oil path...the journal is still in good shape overall save the scoring in the center.

Illinois Plates will draw attention unless you are military or near military installations (and even then they have to pass smog to get base stickers now!) Law says 10 days you gotta get license and blah blah... Eventually as John C says, local people will recognize you. California lets you garage vehicles in other states, they will collect fees and give you a CA plate for a truck garaged in Michigan...and not smog it. Which somehow seems wrong. But since you are a 'resident' of CA, then that state is due the revenues on a private vehicle. Out of state garaging has them sending you the registration and all documents to that address, too. Then you end up with CA plates in Michigan and the local cops hassling you there instead! Try being me.... I'm nowhere more than 30 days at a time... yet I'm hammered on taxes from all sides!

Yeah, that's how I describe it to the parts store people: It's like a Delica, only smaller! I'm going to have to go to Japan to get a proper car cover. And John C is on the right track.... More like 25's KYB's and a winch! Very solid underneath, happy with it so far. I go take possession in about 14 hours. Been busy buying Ricer stuff this weekend! LOL You guys in Canada are a source of parts for me, you're fortunate to have sane importation legislation and access to these type of vehicles. I would kill to have this at the house to run around the neighborhood and do work in the back yard. I don't need to go more than 80kph 80% of the time... And for the guys whining about the costs of forged piston kits / exhausts / etc... for the Datsun L-Series: http://www.nengun.com/news-gt1/suzuki-cappuccino-forged-piston-kit http://www.nengun.com/try-force/cappuccino-equal-length-exhaust-manifold

It's being discussed on Facebook realtime. I'd give a couple grand to hang it on the wall as a piece of history (like my S20 Valve Cover, or the Bob Sharp Whale Tail)... But for the asking price of $14,500, you can do your own if you have the skills or friends with skills. That has some nice blueprints, hand drawn and fractional. Bought by the current owner at the SanDiego Swap Meet. Not for $14,500, this is a fishing expedition...never know what you will get. Hopefully anybody that buys it has adequate means to finish it properly, or enough common sense to not hack it up and ruin it for a subsequent buyer.

Sorta, one amplified the signal so the aeration is different. And that is a good point, the parts are brass, soldering them is pretty easy... I'd go with soldering over JB weld... I'm in a third world country and have been epoxying a lot of stuff recently and don't have access to a crack pipe torch and some solder. Drilling out the solder is as easy as heating it up later on and rapping it on the table. I used to solder jets closed all the time, then redrill them in my poorer youth where I was too cheap to buy an array of jets. Just a jet drill set and some solder. Find out which one works and then buy the right one for 'proper' finishing of the job.

You could theoretically go with the 12mm diesel head bolts...but I'm not sure of the particulars on that...length, what you have to do to the mating head holes, etc. Cosmoline/Grease it up good, and stick it in a corner. One bolt is easy to dismiss when you can get another block easily...in a few more years people will give you their first born to get a block with only one bolt hole stripped!

The Jeep mounts look good too, it's like the Chevy Mount on the differential... I'm not particular where I get my parts from if it works better / cheaper / etc.

And of course, it's turbocharged! Suzuki Every 4WD 660 Turbo Limited Edition with Moonroof Yeep, Turbocharged, Intercooled, Fuel Injected AWD Fury with a rush at 3500 to redline. GT-R owners, eat your heart out!

I wouldn't use red loctite, maybe some Devcon Aluminim or JB Weld...that should hold up on clean brass immersed in fuel. This is what is required some times, look at the Weber Manuals and they have you tapering the throttle blade to tip in quicker, drilling transition holes, etc... The emulsion tubes are no different, but most could mask it in OEM applications, probably not as demanding as yours. When you go custom, you may need to do that inside the carbs as well... It's probably why Weber has like a million of them, but Mikuini has like two....HAHAHAHA! If it works, you can not argue with it, just note it for the next time and maybe save some time. Now wait 25 years for the opportunity to pass it on to someone needing that bit of knowledge!

That moustache bar setup looks like Monzster's L24 setup... I have photos of it somewhere. It was a nice solution especially when you have tubing or broken moustache bars laying around to use the bushing set!

Block is stripped out? A helicoil should be more than enough to repair it.... if you're superparanoid you can double insert it for twice the required thread engagement. Remember that the bolts only go so deep, so it's not stripped all the way down, with some careful measuring and a floor mounted drill press (Or mag-base drill) you can take out the threads to the proper depth to allow a double insert to seamlessly mesh with the remaining threads in the bottom of the hole...but it's probably not necessary.

Chroming the splines oversize / rebroaching and then grinding them back to size is a standard, accepted spline repair process. I think it should be possible for around $1500. We hardchrome splines all the time on worn drives in industrial service to salvage equipment. Rebroach the female section, hardchrome and grind to match line-to-line on the males. Done all the time. The hardest part in the absence of proper engineering drawings of the originals, and unworn shaft sections is reverse-engineering proper lubricant clearance. Too much, the drive is sloppy (not really an issue on constant speed one-direction drives, but makes for 'play' in reversing drives which then can twist/shear splines) or too little and the splines seize/gall and then...well...in this application we have already visited those possiblities. But it costs as much as most people bought their car for, so usually those types of repairs are not considered in this price range. As Lazeum explains, the factory tolerance is unknown (I have steering columns with less than 30,000 miles and they aren't 'tight' in comparison to some of the new stuff. As Lazeum mentions, there may be sliding shear calculations for collapse that need to be considered....even and especially in the above scenario of hardchroming and rebroaching the female portions, as the 'fit' of the shafts may well be as good as it gets with the crash design from day one. In which case, you're back to 'ignore it' because literally, there is nothing you can do to make it like a new Hyundai. Maybe change the upper column to something from another car. It's a four-bolt rag coupler, pretty universal.

" I was responding to your position that the problem was not worth addressing at all." From the very same post, obviously ignored: " As a certified engineer, or automotive technician would I assume the liability of compromising the crash survivability of a customer's vehicle to make them happy?" The disconnect we have here, is the obvious difference between someone doing something on their own car, by themselves, at their own repair site, and someone in the automotive or engineering profession endorsing or otherwise modifying a structure involved in crash survivability. In Europe, perhaps liability laws apply differently to tacit approvals and suggestions. In America, anybody can sue anybody else for anything. Including, I bet, advice given on an internet board. Having been sued for spurious reasons (and "Winning" at the cost of over $10,000 in court costs alone which were returned, but not lawyers fees as a simple lie by the plantiff gets their lawsuit classified as a "good faith" filing, so no lawyers fees, 5X court costs...) you just don't give bad advice that will open that door again. I made a statement regarding liability which was not personal. Others have gotten personal saying it's "my" stance, and why "my stance" is "wrong" even after I have explained it several times (quite simply and clearly I thought.) From the beginning, I said anybody can do anything they want to THEIR car, but I would not/could not/should not endorse it even in casual formats from the attached liability. The advices all seem to revolve around things that 'gum up the mechanism' which is a red flag to me. As Lazeum says, there are shear considerations. Others will poo pooh the considerations and blithely carry on, maybe some lead-based lubricant like used on axles which is designed for sliding joints under high load, which will 'tighten up' the splines on such a lightly loaded component....yeah, maybe, on my personal car. But paint? JB Weld? Not on your life. Would I drive around it? Absolutely. Would I tell a customer to drive around it? Absolutely. The OP quantified it, it was not a vague query. 3mm (1/8") on his small diameter steering wheel. That's not excessive. The responsible stance was "You could try to replace it and see if you can get a better one." so there was no reason for me to repeat that simply to hear myself type. But the advice on JB Weld, and non-lubricant based items gave me enough pause to negatively endorse them, and state my reasons why. Am I gunshy about getting sued by some idiot because he did something and wanted to blame me, no matter how inane the connection or malicious reason? ABSOLUTELY! Welcome to America. Where you can kill yourself and there are no repercussions, but if you nod your head and someone kills yourself, you are liable! Remotest of possbility? Sure. YOU spend $65,000 defending a B.S. Lawsuit and see if you don't strongly stick to liability avoidance and proper OEM recommended maintenance actions, and try to dissuade others from untested experiments where death or grave bodily injury are a possibility. Not "fiery death"---a steering wheel that doesn't collapse doesn't cause a firey death. It impales you through the chest. You linger a lot longer than fire. Doesn't hurt as much, but I still wouldn't make any recommendation that could be linked to it. Someone not having engineering liability, or professional hung onto his skillset he uses to earn his daily bread....can say just about anything they want. They could advise putting bolts through the column, or tack welding it since no actual sliding is needed during regular driving, only during a crash...and what are the chances of a crash? But someone doing it for a living just can't say that.that. Regardless of how many people take issue with it, or try to mischaracterise it as a personal attitude to "ignore it"...

"I take issue with your attitude that..." And there it is... You do? Fine. Kill yourself. I never said not to do it. I said you can kill yourself, and as a professional I will not accept the liability for the death that may result from half-assed modification of a critical crash structure. Know what I take issue with? Your obtuse mischaracterisation of contextual inferences. It's not just ME, I can think of at least THREE people on this thread that said 'live with it'.... Get off your butthurt throne.

If you don't know, perhaps its better not to jump into the conversation? Or perhaps read all the posts in the thread and then don't jump in and just sit back and learn some more? Kind of a thought there... might be good advice. You completely took an answer out of context. I made it CLEAR the fix affects crash survivability or potentially affects it. As I have said from the beginning, if an individual wants to kill themselves...have at it! But denigrating or deriding a professional who does not want a potential million-dollar wrongful death liability on his head.... seems foolish.

"BIG part of his mechanics/engineers job to improve any weaknesses that may hinder the driver." Fair Enough... is 3mm play enough to "hinder" a driver. As John C stated "that's what you get" -- Some things are not able to be fixed. This is a good example.... "Enamel Paint" or "JB Weld" on a crash structure? Sorry, not for me. As I said, if you would possibly rather hinder crash survivability, then it's your perogative. As a certified engineer, or automotive technican would I assume the liability of compromising the crash survivability of a customer's vehicle to make them happy? No, I would gladly be 'fired' and let you possibly kill yourself, thankyouverymuch!

Limiting links to prevent hose blowoff would be advisable.... For some reason those original photos did not show up on my iDevice.... Hmmmmmm