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bradyzq last won the day on October 12 2018

bradyzq had the most liked content!

About bradyzq

  • Birthday 11/18/1968

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    Montreal, Quebec, Canada
  • Interests
    Dyno tuning (it's what I do), standalone ECUs, Webers, Datsuns, old Audis, pretty much any cool car

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  1. @AydinZ71, with the VVT on the intake cam working, the torque band should be stupid wide. I'm curious to see a dyno plot comparo with VVT tuning, and without, but I guess that is a ways off...
  2. It sounds to me as if you expect the dyno to be hard on the driveline. It shouldn't be. There will be no shock loading or wind-up. The only part that might complain, because it's stuck in the middle so to speak, is the clutch. If there are currently no hints of imminent driveline failure, I agree with NewZed on treating the ujoints to fresh grease. Also applies to the transmission and diff. I like Redline MT90 for the transmission, and Redline 75W90 GL5 oil for the diff.
  3. How much of this stuff do you actually have already? If the answer is almost none, then good. Because there are more efficient ways than what you describe to make serious power with an L28 ET. As a start, twinscroll single turbo instead of twins, decent newer ECU controlling 6 injectors of the needed size, front mount intercooler.
  4. I like @Leon's theory that points at the PCV valve as the potential source of the oil. The problem seems to start directly downstream from its entry point in the intake. And you mentioned that there's oil in the intake runners. It would take a LOT of intake reversion to push oil out to the intake if hte source was the valve seals. An easy test is to block the pcv hole in the intake, and run a hose from the pcv up under a windshield wiper. Not that there should be much blowby, but you'll see whatever there is instantly that way.
  5. With a degree wheel, per the cam card specs?
  6. Nope, no ad clicked. I can navigate only for a couple of seconds. Then the subscription window pops up and I can't close it. Running Windows 10 using Chrome.
  7. @BHJ Automotive, access to your site requires a subscription! That's really annoying.
  8. Randalla, Your peak torque and peak hp rpm are very low for you cam. Lower than stock! Is your cam timing where it should be?
  9. When removing added components like amps, phones, alarms, remote starters, etc, etc, it's better to remove the wiring at its source, not just remove the component. That way you discover the sometimes "creative" ways the PO installed it right away, and you can return the wiring to stock. It sometimes takes a bit of wire tracing time, but it's worth it.
  10. Also, if there's room, swap the injectors and crank sensor wires.
  11. Couple of things to consider regarding injector clocking: Do your injectors spray at an angle, or straight? It at an angle, you'll have to aim them so they don't spray onto a port wall. And the connectors will point where they point. No choice. Will you be able to plug and unplug the injector connectors with them facing down? It's not a good idea to be turning them around and stressing the O-rings whenever you need to unplug an injector.
  12. If you're going to split the wiring into 2 looms, I suggest keeping the low current sensors away from the potentially noisy high current actuators.
  13. You can just fill the timing table with 20 for off boost shakedown purposes. Did you turn the engine to TDC1(piston position, not just crank pulley mark) and physically count the teeth between the missing teeth and the crank sensor? That will get you very close.. Mark the crank pulley or side of a trigger wheel tooth if the timing mark on the pulley doesn't line up with the pointer. If the car starts with that setting, set the timing to fixed at 0 degrees. Now make your fine adjustments.
  14. You can always throw the old turbo back on and run it at 23psi and see what it does. You know, in case you want to spend more time and money on this in the name of science...
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