Ivan280zt

Dayz, Problems that I have listed are just usual things that go wrong. T/B is electonic unit almost like drive by wire but its still using cable. What do you expect when something is huge electric motor with 3tps's and several pedal position sensors built in in. Most of the jags will have one of them get changed in its lifetime. Lower ball joints are just regular wear crap, and every here and there I see steering rack leaking (no rebulit kit available) my point was that they are just very expensive to replace not that they go bad that often. I just really like xj6r because that inline six has been around since like 50's or so (just different displacement) and only "serious" thing that can go wrong with them is valve seals when car has over 100k miles. Electronics are good not too expensive, easy to modify for power, and you can get trans adapters for gm transmissions. This is just my personal preference. Ivo

I guess I can chim in on this subject since I am Jag tech and all... I understand that you work on your own stuff and I hate to tell you but you will let other people work on your car. Electronics require special equipment to diagnose and there are way too many computers (20 + from top of my head) and its all on networks. Throttle body is $1500 and yes it will go bad, steering rack is about $1400 there is ok chance that it will leak, front seal on diff, always leaks and alot of time its too late to fix I think diff is about $3k. Trans is damn good unit I have only seen one get changed in year and half afther all its made by Mercedes AMG. ECU's are solid not many problems with them. Suspension holds really good only thing that tends to go wrong are lower ball joints and they are about $90 a piece. If I was ever to own Jag it would be xj6r. 322hp inline six cheap to work on same body style as 1998-2003 only very small exterior differences. If you have any more questions let me know.

I have 8's in the back with 245/60?/16 nitto 555r's. They fit great with car slammed down (coilovers) and I think that I could even stick some 255's without any rubbing issues. I cant really remember if I have ever rolled lip in the back but if I did I am sure that baseball bat was used lol. Sorry thats best I can do but it kinda gives you idea on how they fit. Ivo

Scottie, I was looking at 96-99 e36 but now I am leaning towards e46 01-02 is in my price range. I am selling my bike and daily driver so its time to move up with something nice and fun to drive everyday. Ivo

Juan, James got me GT4294 and as far as trans goes I am getting ATI built turbo400. I already got trans adapter from DaveH and right now I am waiting for call to take my car to get 8.5 sec cage built. I am also waiting to get my head back from machine shop but I am in no hurry as I am about to buy e36 M3 for daily driver so funds are about to go down some lol. I will be using JTR trans mount only thing that I will need is some engine mounts so let me know if you are interested in making extra pair. Ivo

Juan, Looks awesome buddy I got the same thing sitting on my stand right now! Let me know if you are interested in making extra set of engine mounts I could use one for sure! Ivo

Scotty, Contact JTaylor on here and he can tell you where he got his vvt set at. I know when he got it hooked up that car made 80whp in midrage now how do you like that! lol Good to see that you got her running I got rid of my L28 too and got 2jz with gt42 behind it ; ) Ivo

Dont know if this will help but my trigger angle btdc is set to 36 I belive anything lower or higher than that number I would have issues with timing. Ivo

Forrest, Any chance of you visiting that shop called "Up Garage" that sells all kinda of used performance parts?

Slow_Old_Car, My setup is almost like yours f54, p90, 2mm headgasket but I do have some combustion chamber work as well. I am just running 93 octane. When I was tunning my car while back there was no hp difference between 11.4 - 11.8 but as soon as it got to about 12.0 there was good 12-15whp difference. I still try to run around 11.8:1 Ivo

Slow_Old_Car, I am not sure if I can do printout of my timing table with haltech (never had reason to try it) but my timing map is pretty simple. I run between 32-35 deg on cruise and light loads but as soon as it starts to see boost I take about 1/2deg out for each 1psi. So at 10psi I am running about 28deg and bye the time I hit 20 psi I am down to about 24deg. Only thing that do is I go easy on timing right around my peak torque 4500rpm (about 22 deg) and I start adding timing back in right afther it to about 24-25deg from about 4700rpm to 7000rpm. Since your cylinder pressure is highest at peak torque that would be one area to take it easy on timing. Ivo

Get that a/f to about 11.8 (I run 12.0 at 20psi pump gas) and make sure that you are at least running ngk bpr7es with gap between 25-30. I made few passes down the street with same a/f as yours is right now and it killed those plugs in hearbeat. Now would be also good time to upgrade your ignition box too (unless you already have one). What timing are you running under full boost?

Well I finally get to join in this thread. This is small clip but car really sounds twice as good in person! Its 3inch turbo back, ultraflow muffler, and large Isky cam idling at 1200rpm. http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...66675493937965 Ivo

Yasin, I love you man!!! No really I love you!!! My first, second, third, and fourth born are getting traded in for that M1! Dear lord man what kinda of friends are you keeping around!?!?!? lol Ivo

Welcome to Never Big Enough Club!!! : ) Ivo

John, I belive that it should do fine. With my stock cam and big turbo on dyno I was making power to 6500rpm and thats when is started to taper off. This cams power band is advertised to be from 4k to 8.5k (please dont ask why I got it lol). I did quick drive down the street and when it hit 4500rpm whole car got violent!!! Motor reved up like I was spraying living crap out of it. Z728, Yes now I am in control on how much tension there is on chain which I guess can be good and bad thing...everthing is solid now.

aziza z, Thanks man I sure do enjoy seeing her slammed even though its really not that low just my 18's make it seem like its sitting in dirt lol. olie05, Engine manegement is Haltech e6k and cam is Isky 595 lift 306 deg duration (yes I know its way too big but too late for that now). John, Eat s@#t!!! ; ) PrOxLaMuS©, Its soid head but all you can hear is that damn kameari timing chain setup. It really sounds sick in person. Ted, Yeah it sure does pick sound up too bad that whoever is hosting video killed quality of sound it really sounds way meaner in person. Everytime I get her stared in shop who ever walks bye just freaks so far everyone loves it and I work with bunch of good ol boys and its kinda hard to get them to approve of anything foreign (except me lol) but they do love my Z. Btw that is the shop I work at from 14 techs I am the only one with blue toolbox (everyone else has red!!!).

Thanks Gabe that thing sure does sound good when it revs up!!! Ivo

Ngk Bpr7es Gap is at 35 Msd 6al box, blaster 2 coil, and Magnecore 10mm race wires 20-21psi pump gas

F@#K!!! I have nothing else to say : ) Ivo

WOT 93 octane 11.5-11.8 A/F WOT 93 + 114 octane 12.1 A/F Ivo

24-26deg 21psi 8 gallons of pump gas and 2 gallons of 114. Ran it for about year at 24deg straight 93 octane. Took whole motor apart few months ago and everything looked great. Ivo