LoneStarS30Z

Osan, finishing up my year tour out here. Been an interesting time, got to do some quality travelling, but I'm ready to get the hell out of here. I actually order a knob that had the H-pattern engraved on top, plus its super heavy at 600 grams!

Nope, to Okinawa. I leave from Korea in about 3 weeks and head back to the States for a month off. Can't wait!

Thanks for the work, appreciate the info. I looked up the thread about shift knobs you're selling, they look great but unfortunately I'm required to have the H-Shift pattern on the knob by the country I'm shipping the car to.

Can any of you guys confirm what the correct thread and pitch is for the Borg Warner T5 transmission that came in the late S130's? Looking to purchase a fancy shift knob and need to get the thread size right the first time, thanks.

My eyes have been soiled, what has been seen cannot be unseen.

Tony, happen to know if those guys are still open there in Oki? I'll be there in June and hopefully the Z later in the year, would LOVE to just be around the guys and learn some stuff and let them take my money. Never heard of a stainless steel log manifold, sounds interesting.

How much did the vinyl cost? I've always been interested in doing this. I'm assuming the vinyl won't trap moisture under it though right?

How's it going man, I remember trying to help you with your turn sigs on Zilvia. Still no luck huh? I like the hood, different idea from just blacking it out like most people.

From my experiences with my previous car I would I would say no, lag wouldn't be worse, but better. On my SR20, I went from the stock log manifold, much like the L has, to a tubular manifold from Tomei and spool came on much faster and power was increased. Luckily, that was an SR, and prices were reasonable and easily attainable. L series tubular manifold seem to be much rarer and definitely more expensive. From what I've seen, you either have to be patient and wait for a HKS manifold to pop up, or have a custom manifold made, which be my latter choice just as its almost guaranteed to be more expensive for a quality job. If you look it up though, someone here was selling a single turbo manifold for around $800 if I remember correctly, if I had the funds available, it would've been mine long ago.

Think you'll have better luck in the US, Z cars and parts a lot rarer where I'm going, Okinawa.

Air Force, doing a year in Korea, however I'm in Thailand right now until Tuesday, then going back to Korea. Then going back to the States mid-May, then going to Japan mid-June. So in short, I'm going to have plenty of oppurtunities to hunt down a copy

Oddly and shamefully enough, I haven't checked the markings on my block or head, but it's a straight swap from an '81. I think earlier in the thread I said an '83, but that's what year my diff came from, I get the 2 years mixed up lol. I'm going to see what Oki has to offer in terms of good turbo's for good prices before I hope on the GTX series. The only bummer about the GTX turbo's is they don't come with a compressor housing, so you'll either have to buy your own, or use one you might already. Either way, I'd have to buy a new housing and I'd be touching nearly $1700 for the turbo alone! Eesh!

I'll have to pick up the issue when I see it in the airport. Congrats on the national recognition.

Mmmm sounds like an awesome idea. Would love to do a vintage road trip to the mainland, happen to know the approximate costs of getting the cars boated over to the mainland? I heard the old school vibe is pretty stout on the island to if you know the right people.

Yea I've heard, although I don't think I could ever really justify gettin rid of my L as long as it still runs strong. I'd pretty much have to be given a near free RB to want to go through all the work. I hope I don't get swiped by horrible drivers either, I've heard Okinawans are bad, and Americans just as bad because it's full of young airmen/marines with their first 'fast' car. Korea is just full of aggressive Korean drivers, there aren't too many Americans driving here. I'll have to do more research to find out which cam I have, it was installed when I bought the car. I haven't driven the car since October, but I remember the car being very torquey mid range but seems to run out of breath up high. Full boost was around 3k and things really wake up around 4500. Haven't gotten any solid power numbers, but a safe guestimate would be in the 280-300hp range. One day when I change to a Garrett and a good tune I'd like to see what power it makes then.

I've got a turbo L28 turbo from a '83. The previous owner installed ITS 60-1 turbo which is clone of a Turbonetics turbo. Looking to go with a GTX30 when the money is right. Other than that Webb cam, 440cc injectors, custom intake manifold, porter exhaust manifold and other misc goodies all running on an old SDS engine management. I'll be redoing all the intercooler piping to fit a brand new core when over back to the States in May. The car is quick little gremlin but I still want a new turbo since mine needs a rebuild, might as well go with a quality turbo this time and hopefully get it tuned good in Oki since there aren't any dyno's out there. The allure of going RB while in Japan is immense, but I really only want 400whp (for now) and the L can handle that, plus I'm a huge sucker for the L's rumbly sound. I'll be weapons maintainenece on HH-60s when I get there so I'm sure we'll run into each other when we break our vehicles haha. I've got to make friends since it'll take about 2-3 months for my Z to arrive at Naha after I deliver it to port back in the States.

I was looking into these too, from what I could understand the improvements including the 7 bladed impeller meant quicker response and more power. So a GTX30 is now nearly as powerful as a GT35 and quicker to spool ofcourse.

Oh and btw, for turbo recommendations, a GT35 will see you to 400hp and more with supporting mods and tune. Search 'big-phil' in the members area and check his car. I think he made just shy of 400 without a proper tune. I myself will go with one these new GTX30's to keep some good response and get some mean power.

Welcome, any plans of bringing iyour car to Oki? I'll be there on Kadena in June and am having my Z shipped over there with me. Also assuming you're at Kadena too, what shop are you in?

From what I'm reading alot of people are applying seam sealant to the welded areas, thought should keep out any kindnof moisture.

My assumption is just improved radiator flow while not having to sacrifice flow to the intercooler, if I remember right it started with drifting and wanting to get maximum cooling while traveling at slower speeds and indirect airflow when the nose of the car isn't pointing the same direction the car is going. I might not be 100% correct, but I remember hearin that explanation years ago.

That was my assumption, hopefully someone more knowledgable will know for sure.

Best way to find out is buy more quarts than you think you'll need. I'd say after about the 5th or 6th quart, add oil in small increments, give it a little time to settle and check the dip stick.

Search guys, there's atleast 3 threads on this topic, including the original thread from the producers asking for cars to be in the video. And yes before you make another thread, the Z's in the Rocketeer video are also members too, or atleast one of them. AzizaZ owns the red Z.

I had those NRG harnesses a couple years ago and they were pure, unfiltered, unadulterated, garbage. They did not stay tight around my shoulders and were so skinny they were digging in collarbones. The mounting brackets felt like super cheap metal. I really hate hate hate knock off parts, especially when they involve my personal safety and livelihood, but since you're going that route I'd advise against cheap ass harnesses, if you want to save, find some used but good condition Sparcos or Willans. Or better yet Takata, just beware of knockoffs. Either way 3 in wide harnesses will be alot more comfortable in the long run.