Mudge

They would stay open constantly would they not? Sounds like they would overheat. 82+ cars have no dropping resistor FWIW. Why are you so resistant to spending a little more to get Megasquirt working, and not having to fabricate second fuel rails and hack job parts thrown together? If you have the know how it shouldn't be much more "work" other than getting it tuned, which should not take too long if you know what your doing.

11.1@119, LS1 with zero head work, a 226/226 cam, headers and lid, damnit http://www.futralmotorsports.com/images/mike00.mpg Yes thats on slicks, you can pretty much tell from the ET vs MPH, damn those guys.

If you dont at least spend money on a cage (proper car setup $$$), then your going to twist that body all to heck. This is why things cost money, if your making big power in a car then you ARE reinventing/re-engineering the car, and thusly will have to replace damn near everything on it.

250 is getting a bit scary, definately check the suggested items...

In a way its not slow, but you get used to things as time goes on, and unless its in the 11s its slow to me. Now on a road course, it doesn't have to be an 11 second car to be fast around the track, it all depends of various things though of course. This was my dyno sheet http://docmudge.tripod.com/dyno/index.html So, to me 13s are slow, that is a freaking stock car. Nissan Maxima can touch 13s as well.

Yep, almost no R200s are LSD. If the tires spin in the opposite direction when jacked, its a regualar 280 rear. If its genuinly from a 78, which is likely, its not a limited slip.

http://www.turbofast.com.au/FlowT3.html 40-60, Google is great http://www.geocities.com/ttskipp/turbochargers.htm Turbonetics, maybe this one doesn't apply fully http://www.turboneticsinc.com/comp_maps/fig4.html How to read compressor maps, for someone like me http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/turboupgradeforvg30dett/id6.html How to calticulate needs http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html

Slotted, solid rotors? I would not spend the money, if you could get vented then it might be worth it. I wont pay for a slotted rotor, and rear brakes are hardly ever lacking on any street car, if anything many track people complain OEM setups have too much rear bias.

For some cars there is something called the MAFT, the MAF translator. Its a MAF with a built in rheostat, usually for blown cars etc, kind of ghetto tuning but if it gets the job done, then... An intake manifold design effects air distribution, and generally a factory unit is just never going to distribute evenly. Individual injector tuning would be neat, if you were using an EGT or something fancy to monitor everything, but in general just being able to have some adjustability would be nice. I may look into the Megasquirt again sometime in the future.

I never understood that stop sign argument, so the city is responsible for making sure you, as a dumbass, dont drive over the tracks without looking before you leap? Do we need to give Johnny a bottle to feed on too?

Thanks Moby, I swear I have half a brain, or approximately thereof, but seriously I question myself a bit because this is sure taking forever. Right now I have one ground to block (and only 10g I think), and 2 "good" grounds from the battery to the frame. I will add at least one more to the block, some of my accessory grounds are coming from wiring to the battery @ the framerail. I am going to check these few things mentioned, and if that doesn't do the trick, I'm going back to step 1 and check everything again, trusting nothing basically. If that doesn't do it still, then I have to make the assumption, diz/ecu and/or injectors are at fault, then I can troubleshoot those as well. I'll try checking the injector resistance too.

Some people are stupid, once the deal was done I dont think I'd accept business from this person again. Rippedoffmyass, ripped off is $900 to replace a distributor, thats what dealers are charging Camaro people often. I dont want to hear whining about how hard it is, yes your right, it takes about an hour if your working slowly, it does suck. $183 distributor, some RTV or $2 gaskets and your in business.

Stretch the Fiero frame and it suits a fair number of cars, but a rear transaxle setup is a pain and is expensive. This is part of the reason I stayed away from 914s. Very sweet car, I love that style of racer.

http://zdriver.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=3499 Shoot, I see it crops the image size (here is limited to 640x480 I think also), I can email it if you like, should be around 225kB

No luck yet, I have a detailed email from another swapper on some things to check yet again, I can post it. He also drew out a nice diagram of things to check with the VOM on the 82 ZXT sheet.

280ZX/ZXT could be argued is better than the Z engine, but realistically both will last if taken care of. For a turbo car, then stick to ZXT engine. If this is going into a 280 injected car it shouldn't be too tough, there is tons of stuff here and on ZCar.com about the swap.

They charge the most for gas in my area, I dont use them. http://www.gaspricewatch.com

Thats nothing, LT1s see 229º before the cooling fan even turns on, stock. That is running a bit on the edge though, but thats smog laws for you.

Basically yeah, fetching it out might be "fun," putting it back should be pretty easy. Use asm lube or 30w oil and it should slip on fairly easily, you can use PVC pipe instead of a rear main installer if you can find one in the right size.

Just like speakers, impedance is important. Too little, as said above, will cause the injector drivers to burn out, just like happens to folks who put low imp stuff on high imp cars Although, then I suppose you could theorize of 12 high impedance injectors being used, but I dont know that they would still put out enough juice to dump as much fuel as you'd think would come out. If it were this easy someone probably would have done it, and I haven't heard of it myself(?)

True, true... the only thing is he supposedly claimed it was such a fast car, and it apperantly is not, not from the video.

Ok, yeah I know that other connector, by the fuel controller module. Most of the wires on the connectors seem pretty exclusive, although sometimes it switches from one connector to its mate, like that particular one has green and then brown... IIRC that is. I'll check later, of course... and thanks for the help

Moby, which 3 plugs is Ian mentioning in this post? http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=253139&t=253135 These are computer plugs I believe, I do not think I checked BR/G on Plug 1 although maybe I have, if he had the pins listed it would come to mind better. I am guessing these are the computer plugs, except for the fuel relay.

Sheet, you guys have 85? Or was that a typo? That would have to mean its about to hit CA any moment now I already am tired of seeing people getting 94 at thier pumps and we have this 91 crud.