Mudge

The board uses http:// not HTML http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=318371&page=5

No, the pinout is not the same, so you'd have to swap some things around. The CPS in the distributor does not rotate the same # of counts as the crank version either, so there is another problem. The 82+ harness is more "contained" is the only reason, just use your 81 stuff IMO, or else expect to do a complete conversion.

It was awhile back, I didn't have a manual and someone that has done the conversion before, told me the fusible links were a ground (oops). I had thought they were + before simply based on how the battery terminals reached vs the other one (2 ground spots), as well as them having green and red colors not all black, so when I plugged in the fusible links, the ACC link blew instantly...

You have the head temp sensor hooked up, yes?

One thing to check is the signal to I think pin 5 that Moby brought up, since the car wont enter closed loop without this wired correctly. I have 2 connectors coming out of mine, one is a bullet waiting for a connector and the other is a bullet connector off a wire. I removed the diz today to test the signal back to the ECU, zero volts if diz not turning, and I get voltage when I turn it by hand, so the diz is fine. I'm suspecting the computer now, because of the fused links being wired backwards before

I'm happy with a 160 thermo, with the climate you live in, thats probably what I would run as well.

There is a magnetic drain plug for LT1s, but it is for thread style used on 96+ cars only, switched to metric I believe. I would suggest the WIC filter for the best filtration.

I'll put my notes together and give you a buzz, thanks!

I'm looking to get some of those Ford injectors, did you go to a yard? Wondering how you got them for $7 each.

The block is hardly ever a limitation for anyone, many stock V8 blocks can take 1000 HP before they split, some of the older ones can take even more - thats not the point, and I hope nobody thought that it was. However a stronger block, especially in the L will have reinforcements to help avoid twisting forces, but yes the block is not the weak link here not by far.

CCWs? Momma

The wiring harness did change, and in fact I see that 82 and 83 are not exactly 100% alike either (pin 5/8 discrepancy so far). 82+ is the better year though if you can convert, any timing chain slop will affect your CPS and thusly timing etc, so its a bit more of a PITA issue, I have heard of failures with that sensor due to its location also? hmm I have no problem making a write up, honestly there is not a ton of things to cover, I am baffled as to why my car is not cooperating, but thankfully a couple others have thier cars going so this is further proof it should not be so difficult. I know one other person though that I have email contact with, that had a running car and transplanted everything over to his 260, and he can't get his running either. So I'm either missing something very obvious/stupid, or I have a problem. I have pinned out everything "important" between 2 and 8 times depending what it is, and still can't find the problem just yet. So I'm hoping the Chiltons is my doorway into fixing the problem, or the Clymer that is on its way... This is the first time in a few years that I've felt like such a retard, oh well. Its either me, or its the car

Went to the Kragens today, and they got in a bunch of manuals, one of them a Chiltons for 70-88 Z cars, so hopefully that will fill in some of the blanks.

Yeah, I guess I'm at the point now where I have "when I was a boy" syndrome. I loved 80s TV, and pop music. Seriously I might laugh at half of them now, but man when I was a kid they were the sheet. Simon and Simon, Dukes of Hazard, are a couple you forgot Starsky and Hutch was an early one I watched.

Looking at yet another diagram (ECCS) B Pins 28/36 GY Pin 8 (shows pin 5 on 83 ECCS though?) GB Pin 17 BW 35/27 BW and B are both grounds or grounded, but I dont see where, guess thats OK though. As for the resistance in the others, I guess thats just circuitry. All pins check out, except for the GY being on 8, not pin 5 as my 83 diagram shows, but the car is an 82.

The cars can make 300 with an injector upgrade, your IC, turbo upgrade, etc, and should not be too rich at idle. Its beyond the 300 HP mark that things get exotic.

Looking at the diz stuff, with the ECU connectors plugged in: BW-B short together BW-GY resistance but shorted BW-GB same GB Has resistance to all other connections, but shorted This is with the distributor unhooked from the harness, so I'm using the plug that goes into the diz, without the ECU connectors plugged in the above scenario is not valid, nothing shorts to each other. So is this something the ECU is doing, or is this somewhere else in the harness? Because, I do not see a reason for this in the wiring schematic...? Facing this "microphone" style connector, its B------GY (female) ---------- GB----BW (male) Wiring diagram shows: B ground and ECU GY ECU only GB to ECU only BW EFI relay, ECU, and BW vacuum solenoid, and ISC solenoid. So, should I rewire the diz or is this true on other turbo cars also?

How long are you going to be happy with stock boost levels? Because you wont want to be putting 15 PSI on that NA block.

What you talkin about foo, I aint gettin on no plane!

Sweet! Yeah the turbo car I heard (Len168) does not sound like an NA car, it almost sounds like a V8 at idle, very deep and throaty, he does have a modded exaust though.

I'm no expert, but I have looked at cam stuff and I agree. Stock cams are weenie cams, you can upgrade without major loss of torque, and you will gain some top end RPM and power. If you stick with something around a 220 duration @ .050" on the intake side I think you will be happy. From there you might want to ask opinions on single, vs split pattern cams, I'm not sure how these cars react to that since that is somewhat dependant on desire and headflow etc

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html Here is some info on the wires, where they go and what they do. If you need clarification on something I have a Haynes, and a 240 to look at.

How much power are you looking for here?

It will have more bleed off, yes, and you'd still be mostly stuck with power loss/death at higher RPMs, and it would be harder on valve springs. But supposedly aggressive cams like this are good torquers for down low. New springs, rockers and etc just for a little torque? I'd go for some HP, even if its only a modest cam. JMO though

I had heard that the Haynes was better than the Chiltons manual, I wonder if the people that said that ever saw a Haynes... In my experience to date, my Haynes for the 240 is not like my Chiltons are for my other cars that I've had before, who knows.