Mudge

Yeah, I'm trying to stay out of it on that site, but look at the rake on that wing... why not put a chute on the back and just drag it

Those wheels and sidepipes add to what Corvette flavoring the car has. I agree on the flames, looks like a Tonka toy decal.

Yeah, a guy named Wayne explained that it needs to see voltage on START only, this is what "boots up" the computer he says, and bootup switches are nowdays often like a FET, not a physical always on or off like a relay. I visited those posts so I saw the open loop thing, most of the 240 writeups and people that have talked about it seem to say the swap is easy and there are only a couple things to check, ground this, pin this so it gets voltage etc, but there sure seem to be some supprises. If and when the car is running I'm definately going to write all this stuff up. I am already forgetting everything I went through yesterday, I have my notes at home... I can almost recall Y and Y/W being shorted to each other, so this could be another problem for me. The only thing BW is going to right now is to the coil ignitor... at least as best I recall, I should have put that in my other post that I have that wired up. I dont know if its supposed to go anywhere else. I have a great PDF from the FSM, but the ign stuff that it shows always shows it going off the fargin page. So I only have about 3 known IGN routing wires in pictorial form, everything else is tips "make sure yellow to pin 5" or etc.

http://www.bakersfieldstreetracing.com/pictures/012803/images/DSCF0043.jpg

Did you see voltage in the ON position? I dont recall that I did... I do know though from memory, that start is 3 wires on the 240 and 4 on the 280...

It is supposed to see voltage at start, dont think I got to the point of finding out what you discovered though. I believe that is pin9 on the ECU IIRC on my 82, if you look at the black connectors on the ECU they are numbered, the middle connector has 1-10 on the top, and 11-20 on the bottom I guess. Have you found anything odd or wierd with the IGN relays? I am still not sure why my car wont start, I can only imagine its the injectors or maybe the distributor since I haven't checked signal yet. I've traced every single wire I have now going back to the ign. With what wiring I do have, I am just not sure about those IGN relays, I have to pin those out I guess to see if that jogs anything in my brain as to why the car isn't starting. The ECU gets power, the coil gets power, my fuel pump is hard wired seperately and gets power. I'll take a look at mine for kicks I guess and see whats up with signal/run, my brain just isn't remembering. Pin 9 and 5 are the ones that were "important" that I can recall.

What a loser. I'm on probation, too f'ing bad you dumb sh!t.

Low impedance injectors can't be used on a high impedance car, and I imagine that high impedance stuff doesn't work well on a low impedance driver, but I was asking due to availability. I know turbo injectors are almost unanimously low imp, I was looking at possible alternatives that are more readily available. I'll see if I can find any local, reasonable cleaner dudes.

Anyone have experience with how high impedance stuff operates on the Turbo car?

I have a theory, it involves 3 rolls of toilet paper, Area 51, and a Russian named Vladimir.

Zcar is a great site, alot of the guys there are really helpfull and know these cars well.

Subaru I believe had R190s and R160s. Interchangable, I have doubts as to how easy it might be - as for gear ratios I would imagine there are at least 2 or 3. LSD, hmm dunno. If there was only one gear ratio though, it would be a little odd, unless it was only placed in one particular vehicle.

Aren't the little Dodge Omni 2.2L cars using a .49 or something?

I've seen a guy on another board fit one in the well, but cutting it out, since it was rectangular. That round design is neat though, I didnt think of that.

Anyone know if 1989 300ZX turbo injectors work on the car? They look to be the same style...

Anyone know how obvious/loud an injector should be when test fired? I get sort of a clicking out of 2 injectors, but nothing really out of the others. However the noise is faint enough I'm not even sure its the injector or if its the noise of an electrical connection.

Mine was less, but towing costs sucked oh, and you have the better computer, and better trans

I think I'm finally getting somewhere. I have tracked down the wiring harness, now all the way back to the key. BW at the IGN goes nowhere. GY goes to some portion of the harnes that I'm not sure is hooked up to anything, tracing now where it is supposed to end up. Black Red goes to a blue relay that I guess is accessory or ign relay, not sure that is working. This is part of ON but not part of START, and it looks like accessory relay, so I'm not sure its important yet. WB splits to another relay labeled EGI relay in the car, not the same one as the important EGI relay, so not sure on this one yet.

I'm only using the stock stuff, I have no experience with fusible links until now, only in-line or regular fuses. I had a 69 Firebird and I dont recall any fusible links on that either, those items are new to me.

I figured it was a cap, it looks like one - I just didn't really know what it did. I dont have one on the car now and I'm looking at all avenues as to why it wont startup, so that is one thing I have to put on there to eliminate as a possibility. I have seen spark from the car though, so ... hmm

Here is todays stupid question, what does the condesner on the coil do?

Air filter? Whats that!? Yeah, I see the problem also. I am also using the turbo radiator, that had to be trimmed on both bottom edges to fit in the car. As for the AFM, I'll have to get some Home Depot CAI material some time, for now though I am holding it in place to the coil housing with a wire. Len suggested that I keep things simple, and just use the duct hole that is there now, which I think was Nissans climate control system? Its an air duct, with a small black piece over it on both sides of the car. I saw that it would be easy, even though I didn't want to remove that, I may end up doing that just for the sake of not taking away all the metal that is on the front of the car thereby reducing strength yada yada... So, the problem is not really solved for me, still trying to get it to fire. I dont have a condensor on my coil so I am going to find one, I dont even know if its important, but its in the book. I'm also wondering where the power source for the distributor comes from.

Wheres the dirt?

Sweet, I hope it all goes well for you. I dont even tell myself its almost ready to fire anymore, bah.

Scotty, did your donor setup come out of an automatic car? If so, did you have to do anything to close the inhibitor switch to get the car running?