Mudge

Yep, I came across the Canton thread, which kind of sucks because it would be nice. There is a Steff's pan that I dont know the depth of, but its not wide, not sure how it would work in a RR car though. Thanks

http://www.socalrpm.com/New_Clips/GirlsClips/girlsclips.html Probably not work friendly! But clean. Veronica and Kim are my faves

Michael, a good set of heads can easily have 40-80 hours of work in there. If you find a top notch head porter that works for $5 an hour, and puts $500 worth of parts in the head for $20, let me know! Is it rocket science? No, some pro shops actually do very poor work, do not pressure check the heads, and send out dead products. Then you have middle of the road stuff, and then you have very impressive stuff, I've come across a little of them all. If you want the job done RIGHT and you want good results, you pay for that experienced hand. Getting that last little bit out of the head, is usually the most expensive. Pocket porting gives the most bang for the buck.

Those sound like front wheel drive wheels to me, which means $240 spacers. Are they import wheels? Because if they are, that means, spacers.

If your willing to setup FI, it rules IMO.

You can use 245s or 255s with an 8" wheel, I'd love some 245s on an 8" wheel myself, or 9" even better... There is a Cobra that is 2580 pounds, 460 HP, and has 315s on the rear and 275s on the front, now I really need big wheelz.

Thanks Phil

Thanks Tomahawk, if anything its almost embarrasing that its taking so long, but its not a huge thorn in my side so I guess I'm being lazy about it. Things like not having a balance tube, definately not cool, but I can still only guess what it does (I assume its vacuum balance). They are supposed to be tuneable for great MPG and I want to believe that, they are kind of like a Rochester QJet which had the same reputation, both being progressive carbs with a small primary and juicy secondaries, other than that there is almost nothing that I know about Carbs so the learning curve is stiff, and I will say the books are not helping because I need THEORY, not just information on how to dissasemble them. Looking for anything in terms of re-tuning a carb, other than the idle circuit with NO theory behind it, seems to be a waste of time unless you have a side draft in which case everyone and thier grandma has one or wants one. So, I think I'm on the way to figuring things out and looking forward to mid 20s? Maybe better?...

Well, I've made the decision to forget building up a nice L6 and just go straight for the cows nuts. Will the LT1 pan work, or does it need to be hammered in a couple spots or is there another pan to choose from. I ran the search and didn't come up with anything, so I'm making the guess that the pan is OK. Also, where are you putting your O2 sensors, in the exaust pipe or in the headers? Next questions, what did you decide to do about fuel lines? I have an entire donor car, so getting parts off of it are no biggy.

I want to go Quaife also, despite the cost.

I ran 11.4:1 on my stock bottom LT1, other than being reverse cooled which helps (and hurts), you need to watch timing. I had no detonation. This is on 91 octane MTBE gas, aka 91 craptane.

Faster, higher revs is a misconception. You would need to rev higher for the same peak power yes, thats all it means. In other words, go for cubes. Unless you want a really expensive 10k RPM engine, then GO FOR CUBES always.

Today I'm running 65/60, and as soon as I put the 'balance tube' in place RPM picked up about 300-400 or so, a huge jump. By the time the car was fully warmed up, with the choke off, my car was idling at 1800 RPM, yes 1800. In other words, whoever lost the T fitting did themselves and me a disservice MPG wise it looks like. I dont have the carbs balanced yet but I have idle readjusted to about 850ish or so when I got to work, and it looks like a 75 is definately not needed. 65 in the idle screw side, and 60 on the other. I'll see how it goes and maybe lean it out further from there. I made zero adjustment to the idle screw, it is still 1.5 turns out. It also seems to have more power with less throttle input.

LoL, stupid kids

Tony, sorry to hear your car got keyed, that is lame beyond explanation!

That sucks, looks like no 8" wheels for me

Well, about 19.4 MPG, definately not steller but I half assed it by doing the jets like I did. I am going to get a tube across both carbs and try to read up on the idle circuit some more, and then throw some other jets in there since I have 60/65/70/75 to choose from. I also heard that something as simple as a rebuild kit sometimes helps. I'll report back when I have something worthwhile.

Not hugely carboned, but some yes. I haven't checked plugs since then. I have no balance tube, and I only just today received my carb synchrometer, thanks to a backorder. I want to say that I'm getting exactly 20 MPG right now, but I want to go get gas and make sure, because the gas gauge is not 100% linear. I am pretty sure its 20 even though. This includes SOME WOT stuff but not a ton, and I might be in the secondaries on the freeway I'm not sure, because I dont know the vacuum numbers on this. I cruise at 3400 about on the freeway unless I dip under 70. I want to play with the jets more though. It is also possible to get poor MPG from: Worn throttle shaft (vacuum leak I guess) Dirty emulsion tubes Plain old clogged jets I dont imagine the lack of a balance tube is helping, and I have no idea how out of synch these things can be. Exaust odor was way down, almost not there, that is what I noticed more than anything I could say about part throttle driving. It may seem better but not enough that I really took note of it. Also, I have a 75/60 setup, probably not optimal but I need an overview of the left/right side of the idle circuits to figure things out which I will study tonight after the gym/gas trip, and then try to tune them tomorow hopefully.

Looks nice, I'd raise the rear a bit though

Dont forget the chassis.

Hmm, last time I saw the perfect woman she had 6 breasts, or was it 8 with 2 hanging from the knees...

There was a recent update in the world of LEDs (I was supprised it was news that actually anyone cared about), where LEDs now can use something like 1/5th of the power for the same output. I am assuming its a patent that wont be shared until the 7 years are up, and I dont know the company.

Its been talked about on nearly every board on the internet.

Size! The R160 is a SIZE thing, the 160 means a 160mm ring gear, dont touch it for a V8. Someone estimated it good for 180 RWHP tops, some people with nearly stock setups though break them.

Yep, I'm starting to think LT1 again.