kiwi303

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Nissan/auction-236679084.htm we get a lot of japanese imports here, both new and used cheapies. A quick check of trademe brings up a teana 2.3 and the same car is sold here new as the maxima. Want me to ask a local wrecker to have a look around on the wrecking inductry database for teana/maxima 2.3's that are being wrecked? Might be able to locate a wreck with a 2.3 motor here to pull a crank form.

Whats to be intimidated about? She seems a nice enough girl

heh, co-incidence. I have a '85 Toyota Hilux Surf. Short wheelbase version of the Hilux ute you guys call the pickup, and with a removable fibreglass canopy over the rear seats that can turn it into an open air ride

that would still likely come out to over 3 litre displacement if I read the strokes right. The aim is a VQ35 block which is free to the OP reduced to 3.0 displacement.

I saw on the net, (don't ask me where, just random car related trawling) a nifty wheel alarm. a set of 4 sensors that mount to the non rotating part of the wheel hubs and 4 RFID microchips like your pet can be fitted with, moulded into fake lead stick on balancing weights. They way it looked to work was the sensors wre mounted to the wheel hubs, on the brakes backing plate or similar, and the fake weight was stuck to the wheel, the sensors bounce a RF query at set intervals and that makes the chip respond. Just like when a vet runs a scanner over a stray cat to read off the owners detains off the chip. If the wheel is removed and the sensor gets no return due tothe chip being too far from the sensor to respond, the alarm triggers. Take one wheel off and the alarm starts screaming. how many gangs have 4 guys simultaniously working on a corner each, and a getaway driver waiting nearby? One or two guys might get scared off if they get a couple of wheels off and the alarm screams as they work on the other wheels.

I think they managed to work that out... it's a post from effing 2003 after all!

hmm... RX7, late 80's still with the pointy shape like a G nose s30 hit with a ruler, with a ferrari V12 under the bonnet. S600 M-Benz early 90's, V12 fitted with a set of 6 downdraft IDF type twin throat carbs, stroked and bored. Arial Atom, 4 rotor twin turbo mazda motor up front.

Are you referring to a little jagged starfish looking wheel you can see through the backing plate if you remove a plug? You don't need one of them to remove a drum, they just tighten the shoes out against the inside of the drum when the shoe surfaces/pads get worn down. most in fact come with a spring loading clip to hold them from backing out so they are one way only.

I just turn off my hearing aid.

Thats almost as mean as the time there was a thread discussing diffs, an active thread on the page, not kicked off too page 2. When an idiot with no search button started a new thread asking about strong about diffs. I suggested a Geo Metro diff, if he had LOOKED on the subforum page he would have seen a thread with Diff in the title and if he had read it he would have read the geo metro diff was considered a grenade under torque I wonder how many Geo Metro diffs the sucker has run through now

A wet system is Air-Carbs-SC-Intake-Engine. A Dry system would be Air -> SC -> Carbs/injectors -> Intake -> Engine or Air -> SC -> Intercooler -> Carbs/injectors -> Intake -> Engine So in a wet system with Suck through fuel from a carb in front of the SC theres a fuel air/mix transiting the intercooler in a wet intercooled system. one backfire and the intercooler will be doing a decent impression of a grenade. coolers don't have the structural integrity of cylinder walls

GRID's car is the best of the lot there, but theres still plenty I would change. The front grilled is too big and too many openings, it looks like a catfish gasping for air IMO, bring the nose line down some, so the point of the nose is about where the black stops at the moment, smaller opening. Ditch the hump-and-hollow roofline for a smooth one, ditch the louvers, a subtle spoiler on the rear line, ditch the funky door/rear arch mustang-y scoops. Rear lights mirrored above and below the colour line to more closely follow the 2-part look of the early Z light assemblies. SHorten the rear overhang by about 15-20% and place the pipes to each side of the car, not central as it is there. Black or gunmetal centred rim with shiny outer rim wheels, like the Sportmax 002/513 not funky mettalic. what do you others think?

Quick answer, early autos = R180, early manuals = R200, late both = R200, different ratios in different year/tranny/turbo combos. Everything you need to know is in the driveline section Diff Sticky.

Where are the mods/spambusters located? Any Antipodean reds? A bunch in NZ/Aus/Japan, a bunch in Europe, and the usual load of Yanks would add up to around the clock coverage While one lot is working (jobs for cash-RL), one lot is sleeping, th thirb bunch can be on here keeping an eye on things

The way I see this, you've seen a few engine names bandied around but haven't bothered to research them. there is not RB30DET, there is the RB30E and RB30ET blocks with various RB2?DE or RB2?DET heads bolted on with differing amounts of modification needed. It's past time you stopped trolling for spoon fed answers and used the Search button, and that this thread disappeared into the tool shed.

A little more Germanic Precision?

what you can do is fit the small drain pipe in a concealed area, and glue some copper piping to the underside of the headlight buckets and link that into the water system. the hot water through the copper piping will heat up the bucket interiors and drive out any condensation.

Check out a boat supply shop, I know here we can get aerosol rubber, basic rubber dissolved in solvent, spray it on and the solvent evaporates leaving a nice moisture and salt resistant coating. cover the boards with that and it will keep them nice and protected. I know a guy up north before I moved who used that on exposed joins on his boat trailer, 3 years after application, doing some rewiring he peeled off the old layer and the wire ends in the crimps were still bright and clear. Given your car isn't going to spend time underwater at the seashore (unless you go to fast on a beach road ) it should do the trick.

Black and rust.

hmm... hows this sound for a game plan? Remove the fuel tank, cut out the wheel wheel for the spare, weld the hatch bottom flat, fit a RX7 fuel tank and 6-2 headers twin piped with a pipe exiting each side of the rear, weld shut the hatch and set the glass as an opening glass door, and fab the tail to swing down like a pickup tailgate to release the spare wheel. The wheel in it's little enclosure will rase the apparent floor of the hatch, but it's a sports car, not a grocery carrier after all. get a van for that job Somewhere on Hybridz, I've seen a Z with the spare well removed and a RX tank fitted to allow a V8 to have rear twin exhaust pipes, A search should bring up details.

Why not weld up the hatch, but fab the rear panel between the lights so it opens out like a pickup tailgate and the wheel slides out. Make it's own little compartment.

I wonder if it stayed foam, or if he used the foam as a plug to make a mould and than made a fibreglass shell from that after removing all the bodywork and foam. It would be a lot lighter if the foam and steel panels are ditched and just a glass shell used.

The RB20DET boxes fitted to Skylines down here are F5W71C boxes, same as the stock holden RB30e 5 speed.

Hmm... so he's a funny car driver... those cars sure look funny

Alright here... Just answer this for me please... Who the Hell is John Force and why should we care if he cheats or not?