zedman240

I keep selling my RC stuff but then I find myself buying it all again! I'm into the big 26cc 1/6 scale offroad cars now. Expensive to buy, but cheapest cars to run. Pump fuel and 2 stroke mix! But if racing the zed starts to cost more, might have to start racing the 1/5 scale on road again...I have to race something!!

Not sure on the top two but the 4 lower ones might be front lower control arm bushes that have been pressed out?

I've noticed with one of my zeds that if you turn the key to far the starter doesn't operate. Back it off a tad and the starter operates. After 30 odd years the switch behind the ignition key tends to wear.

The 2+2 doors are quite a bit longer than 2 seaters. Plus 2+2 interior door panels have that extra door release for the rear passengers to open the door from the inside.

Well the conclusion that I came to is I found the perfect speedo drive if you have a non turbo RB gearbox is from a S12 85-86 (or Australian model Gazelle hatchback). Goes straight in with no mods and original speedo cable mounts and works 100%. If you have a turbo RB gearbox you will need a longer Navara speedo drive (as pictured in one of my previous posts and others). I've been wrenching on other things on my zed now trying to make it quicker!

Most of the time when I've had a flasher issue its always been the fault of the flasher unit. Sometimes a quick "tap" with a screwdriver seems to bring it back to life temporarily or just replace the thing. There is a seperate one for hazards and indicators; also check for power at the X terminal when the ignition and indicators are on..

I'd check rear shocks/struts before diff mount. Diff clunks are mainly heard when accelerating/braking. Check the top hats and anything else to do with the struts.

I'd be checking the ignition timing. Sounds like its way out from that description! Then I would give the fuel system a thorough check! as in fuel pressure, condition of the filters etc...

Check the throttle position switch. Its like the ECU isnt giving more fuel when you open the throttle. Or check fuel pressure. Should be at least 38psi approx. If the throttle posi switch isnt working, it wont give the ECU a signal to say you are accelerating to inject more fuel. Thats what it sounds like too me..

I just had my RB25DE setup dynoed and came up with approx 150 rwHp. But that is with a homemade ITB manifold and aftermarket ECU and stock engine. One thing you can tell when driving is the smoothness compared to an L series. Also the standard cams let it down at around 5-6000 rpm. It needs more air! I've been told to add some adjustable cam gears to gain around 20-30 hp.... In time when the funds allow

+1 on the Bosch pump. Using a similar one with my RB25 and no problems at all. Like they say; buy quality once or crap twice!

Have you checked the coil for power with a test light on the "+" terminal? If there is still no spark and there are no injector pulses, its like the ECU isnt getting a signal that the engine is cranking. I don't think 280ZX's have a crank angle sensor anywhere else other than in the distributor. Check the magnetic plate under the "teeth" in the pickup area under the rotor button. There is a coil of wire there that might be "open". Just a guess...it's hard when you're not there!

I've had some luck this weekend...I went rummaging through the wreckers and removed a speedo drive from a Nissan "Gazelle"..I think in the US market they were called a 200SX 80-85 model with a CA20 motor? Installed it, went for a drive and sure enough...hello speedo! My odometer works again. Its about 3-4 Mph out but who cares? When I installed it, I made sure when I had the ass up in the air, I turned the prop shaft and made sure the speedo drive turned with it completely. Cable went straight on and away I went! I've ordered another one from Japan (part # 32702-58S17) which came in a Holden Commodore VL model 87-88 with an RB30 but non-turbo. That speedo drive should fit also...I'll let you know when I receive it.

Thanks for the compliments! I think the only difference is the centres are bolted on the outside of the two rims and not behind. I could be wrong though.. As for the specs on the car in short; RB25DE with throttle bodies,Standard 5 speed, 3.9 CLSD R200, half cage with intrusion bars, Velo seats, Coilovers with Kings/Koni's, Porsche 928S II front calipers with 330mm discs and Skyline R31 disc/caliper Wolf V500 ECU and lots of other bits & pieces that I cant remember!

Aaron, I'm not sure exactly where or from what car my gearbox is from because the electronic speedo sender isn't an R31 Skyline version and a Holden Commodore VL model with the RB30 has a cable drive (above pic middle speedo drive). I have ordered from Nissan a part #32702-58S17 which I hope will solve my problem. Part is coming from Japan so it's going to take around a week and a half to get here so by then I can say how I went. I would love a pic if you can get one easily just so I know what I need! Any pics of speedo drives are welcome! Thanks, Dimitri

Today I just bought from a Nissan dealership the Nissan Navara speedo drive assembly and er I'm thinking it's only suitable for the turbo RB25 box.. I have pictured below all three drives from each gearbox; Navara (extra long), original R31 Skyline electronic drive, and original 260Z drive. The last two are very close I'm just wondering has anyone succesfuly installed a mechanical drive into a non-turbo box? I'm thinking of trying the original drive again but I did have it installed and all I can get from it is internittent movement of the speedo while I'm driving. I'm assuming I haven't meshed the gears properly in the box so the speedo isn't working all the time... This is my last hurdle of the whole conversion (RB25DE);Anyone here had any luck?

Here are my Simmons F90 17x8" on all four. Was going to go with white centers but changed mind at the last moment!

Oh, by the way, hows my old 260Z? haven't checked your site for quite a while! Would love to see the finished product... Regards, Dimitri

Mike, I can also say the R32 temp sensor works on the S30, I just finished my RB25DE conversion and used the original sensor that was in the manifold and works well; Just on half at operating temp and when it gets a bit hot under the collar, 3 1/4 temp! Also you answered a question I was going to ask about gearbox speedo drive; Navara D21...what year is that one? Now I almost have all guages working, just need my speedo! Tach doesnt matter; installed a shift light.

When I was chasing a set of 3.9 gears for a R200, Brighton Nissan in Melbourne had a set for approx $940AUS. Meanwhile on ebay in Adelaide there's a guy selling complete R200 LSD's for $990AUS. (3.9 -4.1) Not sure if they ship to the US though...

As for the "how long does it take for the smell to go", in my warehouse where I work, I found a bird that must have flown in and got trapped inside the warehouse, sat under a rack, starved and died. Looks like its been there a few years but has no smell at all. If I were you I'd look for the rotting corpse unless you want to wait a few years....

I think they are like trying to sell clip on ashtrays for motorbikes...

Electrolytic caps are polarized and can go up in smoke if they are in reverse polarity. They usually have a black stripe as an arrow going from negative to positive. Check the schematic and double check! Greencaps and some others arent sensitive to polarity...

Check the cold start injector; I think its behind the throttle body somewhere..They tend to stick open sometimes and give the engine way too much fuel. I think the lower compression is due to the extra fuel washing the oil off the cylinder walls. Unplug the cold start injector and try that.

I'd give it a quick service; like oil +filter. There might be alot of condensation in the oil etc. Spray some WD40 in the cylinders before startup and check water level.