zedman240

I've been thinking about doing an HID installation but a few things have to be thought out first. I do have a Hella ballast and HID globe with a H4 base but if you have an H4 insert without a light shield, you will annoy oncoming drivers. Plus, with my setup anyway, you will have to butcher the original headlight buckets by cutting a pretty big hole in the back and then having to make it weather proof. You will have to do some wiring unless the kit you want to buy comes with a pre assembled loom. HID systems do take a lot of current on startup (around 20 amps) then drop off to around 3-4 so you will have to install a realy. A zed light switch WILL melt at that current. I've heard of many different types of conversions so just do heaps of research and find a good one. With some conversions you do lose high beam!

I agree LOL!!!! sorry, that was pretty damn good.

Alan, with every wheel/tyre combo I use, I always do my best to get as close to the original rolling radius of the 70 series tyres. I may be wrong but from memory, I think it was around 614mm? Its always +/- 2-3mm. I used to have a 225 50 on a 15" rim which is too small. 225 50 x 16 is almost right. Then again it all comes down to the accuracy of the tyre manufacturer.

When I ran the Rb25 and non turbo trans, I had a 3.9 LSD but a 4.1 would've been better suited. As for the speedo drive, I found a unit out of an Australian market Nissan Gazelle (84-85) that went straight in and speedo worked fine. Was about 4-5 mph slower but I usualy had my gps with me to use as a more accurate speedo. I do have a speedo drive unit new from Nissan if you can't locate one easily.

Check your float levels then have them balanced; they may be out of adjustment. Do that first before you start pulling everything else apart.

I know the V8 guys like to run high ratio's like 3.5 or even down to 3.3 but unless you have massive amounts of torque, letting the engine spin abit more helps on the circuit. With my L28, if I had a 3.5 ratio on most tracks I'd only end up only using 2nd and 3rd gear where i should be using 5th! Like we said, depends on what the car is being used for.

With an L28 and approx 240ish Hp, and a 260 gearbox with the 2.9 1st, had a rear end ratio of 4.3 that was great for accelarating but for some long tracks, ran out of rpm's! Settled for a 3.9 which is a good all rounder. Ultimate would be to swap between a 4.1 - 3.9 depending on the track. Both are CLSD's. It all depends what you want to do with the car and engine/drivetrain combination you have.

Check all your globes and flasher can. i know if a globe is out, the system doesn't like it! What work was done?

Ben, It depends what you want to do with the zed, red light drags or circuit racing. Starts from 000's and up!

Quick way to check if you have oil in your oil is check your oil filler cap; if it looks like a cafe' latte underneath, you have water in oil. Sometimes you get splits in hoses that open on certain movement of the engine.. While the engine is hot, have a peek under the bonnet and squeez some hoses.. Also, check the inside of the car. Your heater core/hoses/heater tap could be leaking. If no luck get it pressure tested.

Just a guess but you could have injector/s stuck open? Either way like you said, you are getting too much fuel. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, plumb it in and see what it reads. Also, when the engine is off, see how long it holds pressure in the line.

Could be trying to "mount" the trailer?

Great score there! Were lucky to find something like that in OZ now, everyone has an eye or an ear out now and anything is just snapped up! If it has the original matching numbers block and its still in useable condition, save it and install any motor you want. You can always go back to the original setup whenever you please. As long as you don't chop it up and make it into a tube chassis sports sedan, that's when I'd cry!

Small update, thanks to DRZ man, I managed to get a L28 turbo dizzy and drive spindle. Already fitted the oil pump drive to a temp L24 I have here till my "healthy" engine is ready. One small detail I forgot to ask was which trigger disc works the best? I've heard of ones being drilled and discs from a Skyline work, just curious what other members have used that work.

Was the plug wet with fuel? If it was, a plug with fuel "shorts" and doesnt fire making the problem worse. Just grab a spare plug and install. Check the lead connector also.

Never heard of rear brakes on a zed fading? Fronts yes but rears? Where they supposed to be remanufactured calipers? Do you have an adjustable bias valve fitted? I'd say seals have decided to fail and leak fluid. When brakes fade never seen fluid leak; just a soft pedal and rears partially applied.. Get them both redone by someone you know well then that's the only time you know its been done properly! Who needs brakes anyway...they just slow you down! j/k

I think if Nissan had them as a factory option, I'm sure the one's with sunroofs would be worth more... But thankfully on mine it never had a sunroof..one less panel to repair!

Having an engine on a stand for a while thinking the water pump should be OK and wondering "should I change it?" then after you install everything, on it's first fill of water, where does all the water spew out from? The water pump!!! Became an expert at doing RB water pumps...in about 40 mins in and out...when I did it the first time..sealant didn't work to well and had water leaking again! Cardboard gasket to the rescue!

Make sure your master cylinder is made for rear discs (15/16); standard zed masters are setup for drums.

Check the gauge/wiring by earthing the sensor wire to the block and switch ignition on and the needle should move to max pressure. If you get no movement, wiring / gauge is at fault. If the needle mooves all the way to max, replace your oil pressure sender.

Would you be able to take a pic of it without the cap and rotor? I just have to be certain it is the one with the optical sensor and not the reluctor type. Also, when it has to be shipped, I wouldn't need the cap or rotor anyway so that will help to save weight! Is the connector for the sensor mounted externally? Thanks for all the effort! Hope I'm not a PITA...

That's GOLD! hahahaha

I'm actually in the process of rebuilding my L24 as we speak. Like you have had everyone around me ask why I haven't chosen the L28 to throw money at. Reason is its the original engine in a low numbered car (#121) and been told the L24's behave differently to other L's. When I delivered the disassembled motor to the builder, he told me this engine already has been modified; L26 crank with other pistons. The original E31 head was found to be unsuitable, alloy has gone too "soft" and a later head from a 80's L24 equipped Skyline will be used. The L26 crank will stay but 1mm overbored pistons will be used and the above mentioned head to achieve some decent power. Still have my current TB's from my RB25DE conversion to use. I'm not expecting 250hp at the wheels but I'm hoping for around 200-220 (or 130ish rwKw's) Not sure how many $$$ you want to throw at yours, but I can let you know what sort of power I get when my setup is done. Most likely stick a little video of it on youtube...

Anyone still have one available? Found an L20ET one here but with the reluctor type sensor rather than the optical. My L24 is being built and need one asap! Thanks again

Have you thought about the R31 Skyline brackets/caliper/disc? Some work required for the bracket then its just a matter of bolting it all together..