Pharaohabq

Well, the issue has to be with those wires. The white and the White/red I think you have this confused. The white and white/red should be connected together. in the AMP meter, they show the current running to the battery, either a positive draw or a negative draw. current has to run through it to get a reading. The Volt meter is different, If just measures if there's voltage on the line. So you'll have to verify this, but it seems if you connected the two wires together, then connected one of the terminals, then connected the other to ground you shoudl read volts. This should be switched power, so while key is off it should not be reading power. otherwise you'd have to find a different connection to use for the switched power. there's probably a thread on this, Voltmeter installation.

Hmm I could probably do those too. Are yours broken? I'll take a look at mine and see what's involved.

You'll be a lot happier with a 5 speed. At the same time if there's a 2.8L availible with it, you can swap your carbs and all over and have a few more horses availible. You can keep the same valve cover so it'll look stock. The idea here is your pleasure driving. I know when I hit about 80 on a 4 speed I REALLY want to shift... maybe that's just me.

$700 is probably a good price if it's decently intact. Like I said though you may be looking at a lot of work. The trick here is to know what you're buying. Sure the parts are probably worth more than $700 if you sold them on the internet ebay/forums etc, but killing another Z for profit? Happens too often, so if you can save her Great!. The repalcement panels from tabco are about $500 bucks for the set. outters and inners rear arches. You may not need both. Really though, before you buy a project, make sure you uunderstand these are NOT cheap to fix up and you will never get your $ back out of it. It's an investment in YOUR PLEASURE much more than anything else. You buy it to drive and fixed up drive fast! that's your benefit. Here's a list to consider for costs: Brakes bodywork paint engine interior glass wheels tires weatherstripping suspension Theres more, but before you buy it, look at what it needs in these departments, and then decide if the cost is worth it.

This is easy to test. Just jack up the front wheels off the ground and see how hard it is to turn the wheel. if it's easy then that's just how it is. if you're having trouble with no tire resistance, then you may need to look ar your steering rack. There's a few ways to add power steering to these cars. We definitely get spoiled when our other cars are more modern, but likely it's not the car. For the PS addition, look up Subaru Power steering or electric power steering. Both work well and have been proven on and off the track.

So we had a new project. The 240Z door Dovetails. "Jesse OBrien" with drivenDAILY put me up to recreating the 240Z door Dovetails. Since these were to be printed in ABS we made them a bit thicker and solid. Here's a rendering. We've printed these and are testing them to see how they hold up. Concievably we could have them printed in Metal through Shapeways, which would be cheaper than buying the Billet reproductions from MSA, but still pretty costly. So I'm hoping these will hold up in ABS. These Dovetails help align the latch on the 240Z. A little mod we made was to make them universal fit by adding the wedge on both bottom sides. Let me know if you have any questions, or if there's other parts you might be looking to have recreated. Phar

might be the diaphram in the fuel pump.. it tears and no pumpee...

ook! wow Auto... No biggie, you can get a 5 speed out of a 280Z or a 79-82 280Zx and it'll bolt right up, don't forget to get the crossmember and driveshaft. (I don't know if it's the same Driveshaft for Auto and manual. I expect it is so you may not need it) Your interior looks pretty decent.

You know, just because we've covered this before, doesn't mean you need to trash the thread. it's much better to just let the thread die and leave it's merits intact than getting it moved to the shed.

Well Sure, but how MUCH does he want...? 1 owner doesn't mean much of anything to anyone but the would-be 2nd owner. So if that's you then it's up to you to decide if it's worth anything. It's always nice to know a car's history, but if you assess it's condition, and think it's worth the price then sure, Buy it. But don't buy it over any other Z because it's one owner. It's sat for 27 years, likely there's a lot more that a little rust you're going to have to worry about. Brakes you know about, but gummed up gas? you could be looking at a full fuel system teardown. Pull off a fuel line and see if the gas flows. I've seen goo'd up lines, and it's not pretty. We're the internets, we <3 pictures, so appease us...

Hey Congrats on the Z. You're going to love it! A few words: First, these cars are not so good on the snow, so keep that in mind. You're a detroit driver so you should be familiar with driving on snow, just be ready for the rear end to break loose. next since you're pulling off the head, it's a really good opportunity to change the timing chain. It's not required, but if the car had over 100K miles it would be a good idea. Once you're on the road, take to to a shop, put it on a lift and spray a new layer of undercoating on the car. it'll be a cheap preventative to keep it from rusting out. Don't worry about upgrading carbs or anything until you've got the car running on what you have, or you find that what you have isn't going to work. If you swap out carbs, you can buy a set of SU's and get a rebuild kit for them pretty cheap. If you're not handy, then you can go with the Z therapy carbs, they're already setup. Beyond that, Going EFI with megasquirt is always an option.

Looks great, but why such skinny tires on those wide wheels? You should have 225's or even 235's. if you had a 235/50/R15 it'd be sweet. it's the second # that's the height of the profile. It'd be a shame to bust up those wheels if you lost a bead.

That round cylinder thing looks like the brake switch to me. it's mounted up under the dash on the plate behind the brake pedal. It should be pressed when your foot is off the brake.

not sure They may be ground control, but from just the one picture I can't say. Can you take close ups of the big adjustment "nut" and maybe up under the camber plate, is there nothing imprinted anywhere? might just be Chinese knock offs. Look on Ebay and see if anything looks similar.

It would be more fun than driving it with the 4 speed You shouldn't have much trouble manhandling the S30 5 speed. it's really not that bad. it's not one hand lifting mind, you, but it's definitely lighter than a lot of them.

Put one side on with LOOSE bolts, then get the other lined up and installed, then go back and do the first side. Make sure everything is tightened and it'll be easy.

Yeah, you notice in that video (not a Z) that the hood didn't actually come loose from it's latch, and it folded as it was supposed to. So not really an issue. Another thing to point out on the S30s is that the front of the hood is still tied down at both front corners. So for it to intrude, you'd have not only pop the latches, and stop the hood from bending or skipping up the windshield/A pillars, but you'd have to crumple the front end far enough that the hood could get pushed in enough. Pretty much that's NOT going to happen, not impossible, but if it did, I think you'd have a lot bigger worries. Now There's a lot of rusted out Z's out there, so what' we'd need to do is to setup a fund (kickstarter whatever) and buy these junkers on their their way to the crusher and do some crash testing. That would be fun!

I'm interested too, Will the lenses be avalible in glass or only poly?

Hey I've done the Series 1 240z side emblems already. I'm using Creo Elements (free) to model, and they're coming out pretty nice, though I need to mod a few lines that are less than .5mm gap so they will print better when cut into the .STL file. I'm printing w/o mount pins and just planning on using that 3m doublestick tape. it works awesome. What 3D printers are you using? Mine's a Prusa Mendel .5mm, but I'm going to build a Prusa i3 with a .25mm nozzle, that should print pretty nice. I've made a few parts for the Z cars, The 240z Horn repair ring and a couple other little pieces. It works pretty well. I charge about $10/hour to model stuff and print. For the most part it's pretty good, break even, and help out the fellow Z guys. I think a Wiki would be awesome for parts that are NLA or impossible to find. Not to mention upgrades for Z's. If you want to collaborate, or if anyone needs anything made, let me know. Phar

Your floor and motorcycle jack are plenty good enough to put the Tranny in, It only weighs about 80-100 lbs. I put one in by balancing it on my chest and pressing it up in place while my brother put a bolt in. Though When you're working on the car and getting under it, Please please use Jack stands. They're really cheap to buy, Harbor freight has them. $40 bucks is definitely worth not being crushed/killed or permanently disabled. Floor jacks have been known to fail w/o warning.

Generally that hood will buckle according to the curve, but a lot of that depends on your pins and their shear strength. Eitherway it's unlikely that the hood could make it through the windshield. More likely if those pins pop, the hood would slide up the windshield and over the roof. that or it'll hit offset to one side and skip up one of the "A" columns. Granted there's a chance it could come through, but I would think it's unlikely mainly due to the windshield design. Look at that photo of the 30MPH frontal, the hood buckled at the shock towers and again mid hood while it never dislodged rear. That tells me it's intended to fold in a wreck. I doubt you have much to worry about decapitationwise... I'm sure Tony has something to add to this.

Thanks Seattle... I'm glad you've convinced Rome03 to just buy a turbo engine. I would add to this that if the Turbo engine has good compression and doesn't smoke then there's no need to open it up. As he was saying, you open it up and it's opening that can of worms. When the engine is sealed, then you don't have to worry about replacing parts. If you're going to take the head off then there's a lot you'll just automatically have to check and replace. Timing chain being just one. Also he said if any of the pistons are chipped or cracked, then you should replace ALL 6 Pistons if not also the connecting rods/bearings. Things can get really expensive really fast. So, if the engine has good compression, then don't open it up. (you can use a borescope to check the insides if you want) Another note on the turbo: When you get it check for shaft play, likely you'll have some, due to the age of the car. But don't go looking for a new turbo just yet, These are easy to rebuild/upgrade. You can do it yourself, or any turbo shop can do it for you cheaper than buying new. The shops that rebuild semi-truck turbo's are a lot cheaper than the performance shops to rebuild them. So keep that in mind to save $ on the same work. If you to it yourself, watch out for sharp edges on the blades, often they're REALLY sharp and can cut the crap out of your fingers. Your plan sounds good now, Get the Turbo engine, Get it checked out. Get your car working well, Seals and brakes. (Silvermine makes a nice kit) Going with the Toyota/84'z31 front brakes and whatever you decide for the rears work well too. Even sticking with stock on the rear is great, but replace the shoes and wheel cylinders. The Bushing kits are nice but be sure to grease every bolt you put in with those bushings, or you'll get a little creaking noise. Megasquirt is awesome. It'll help modernize your EFI system, and will directly swap over to the Turbo engine. (just load a new map) It'll bring up your MPG a little too. I was seriously amazed at how well the MS setup worked on my engine. idle was smooth at ~800 rpm all the way up to 5K+

that Brown brown 5xxx Series 1 car, if they won't give you the owner's name, you can take the VIN to the DMV and see if they'll sell you the info on who it was last registered to.

Probably shouldn't bother. Sure that Hawk package was an original kit, but that's it. A kit, Sold by a dealer. I really doubt there'd be much interest in it other than a novelty. But, I would love to see some pictures of your car. The mahogany steering wheel might be fun to have, but again a novelty. If YOU like it then go for it, if you like your Z how it is, then keep it, it's YOUR car, putting it back to "stock" isn't going to net you anything special. Especially because it's so different from the mainstream. It probably won't be worth much otherwise, unless you found that special collector with the deep pockets.

Not so sure on the Alt/Tach issue. Check your grounds maybe. It is the stock Tach right? As for the headlights, Check your Fusible links, you might have bumped a wire, or broken one loose. Aside from that, just check your fuses in the box. We would recommend upgrading to the MSA 240Z fusebox and relay fix for the headlights. You'll have much brighter lights and probably fix your issue at the same time.