Pharaohabq

LanceVance, Sure if you want to send me the Ashtray cover I'd love to see what I can make from it. I'll PM you. Those rings I should be able to do, though on these 3D printers due to the nature of the STL files we'll see they're not exactly round, they're more a series of straight lines in a circle. but the resolution is tight enough that it looks round from any distance more than about a foot away. The variance is within .5 mm. That being said, I'd be happy to try to print you up some if you give me dimensions. Would you need the edges beveled like in your picture? I can model some up and you'll just need to let me know how big. The designtime is low so cost shouldn't be much. Some sanding and filling may be required since the plastic is laid in layers, but if you're going to just cover it then this should be fine. quick n dirty side view. 95mmx30mm quick n dirty top view. 95mmx30mm These are solely based on the picture you gave estimating the dimensions. extending 10mm below the surface. We would print these upside down on a raft to ensure a good print. Phar

Just a note here on the VR38DETT, Though it's related to the VQ37 engine, there's massive differences. The lower pan has the front half of the AWD system built in, and I'm not certain it's interchangable with the VQ37HR. Though they're both based on the VQ40 block. The engine with the OEM Turbos is wider than the 25" between the S30 frame rails, and the heat could be bad for the rubber in your tie rod ends. Now this swap can still be done, but it may be cheaper to source a VQ37HR twin turbo kit and adapt it to the S30/VQ37HR combo (VQ35HR combo) The VR38DETT is still near $20K used, if you can find one.

Mark - I was thinking about that rear suspension. It looks awesome and I understand wanting to show it off. I see you've got the plexi partition between the back and the front, but if you wanted to delete that and enclose the bottom from the passenger compartment, allowing for storage and such back there, you could repurpose some parts like the 280Z shift boot to separate the lower from the upper. Either you'd disconnect the horizontal shock and place this over the triangular part, and enclose the rest so the shock would still be seen in the passenger compartment, or you could turn the boot upside down and keep the triangular part in the passenger area. You could use plexi if you really wanted to still see your differential, tho the first oil/dust/puddle you hit will make that dirty. Do you see what I'm thinking? You'd probably need to mod the wheel well you just built to fit it, but this rubber should allow you to fully enclose the rear and remove that Plexi wall. Now this is just a suggestion. You're doing awesome work. Phar

Wow! well a VR38DETT would be awesome, but do you have $25 Grand sitting around to drop on the motor? So far as I know, nobody has done that. Though there's some obvious issues beyond the price tag, first the Tranny, you'd probably have to use a different transmission. I believe the GTR transmission is an AWD, and may have components built into the VR30 block, so AWD swap may be required. Which is a whole new issue. I don't know if the 370Z tranny would bolt up or not. In either case you'd also need the Engine electronics. Though you may be able to get the engine running on 370z electronics, you'd still have a lot of tuning changes to account for the Turbos. That's issue number two. The Turbos on the stock VR38DETT are in close by the the sides of the engine, But that's really tight by the frame rails of the S30. So body mods would certainly be required. Lastly, the S30 steering shaft is a tight fit with all the VQ engines. I'm certain it would be quite tight with the VR. So aside from those issues, the VR38DETT should be possible and something I'd LOVE to see in an S30. The VR38DETT is one DAMN SEXY engine. The Intake plenum is being adapted to the VQ engines, but I don't believe it's been released yet. I'd love to have that at least. Now other engines, Well the VQ35 has been done a few times and is a proven swap. The McKinney mounts should work fine for both the VQ35 and VQ37's Read my VQ swap primer for more information. VQ's are solid proven engines that best of all fit behind the front steering crossmember (w/ mods) The RB's RB20, RB25, and RB26 are very good engines, but they're much older and the parts to swap (oilpan) are all but impossible to find, many people fab their own now. They can produce amazing power, but stock not that much more than a VQ37HR. Turbo'd the power numbers are apple to apples about the same. BUT the VQ is lighter. 2Jz etc, These are also nice engines, much better supported these days than the RB's but these are toyota engines too. The power and other specs are very similar to the RB. but they are also lighter. V8's well there's a ton of engines that'll fit. The S30 was originally designed for a V8, but the gas crunch and american emissions limited the S30 to the straight 6 that it got, but it fared VERY well with the "L" engines. The LS engines are awesome, and pretty easy to fit. it's a matter of personal choice v8/v6 on that. In the end it's your car and especially it's your $ so you do what you want, we will try to help...

That's tight! I wonder if Braap has a pict of that ghosted text...

Hmm 78, Did you do any work, make any kind of changes to the car, or did this just start happening all the sudden? I'm really wondering why you're not blowing fuses. First thing you should check all your grounds, then check the wiring in the hatch area, and then everywhere the wiring goes through the firewall. it really sounds to me like a wire is shorting somewhere. Possibly between the turn signals and the coil signal wire. An "Open" would not allow the car to run. Possibly the coil power is being shorted. Now this doesn't have to be in the engine compartment. The car, when running has the key in the Run position, this energizes the key on power, and provides power to the coil. If something shorts that "key on" power, or it cuts power to that line, the car will die. Since you're not getting burning wires and blown fuses, I'm thinking that line (if I remember it's white w/ red stripe) is losing connection when the blinkers/reverse is powered. Reverse as he said above, is the enigma, since it works off the reverse switch on the tranny, and runs back to the separate reverse lights, and nowhere near the combo switch. That's why I'm thinking the issue is with the "Key on" power, but perhaps not in the combo switch.

Yeah, the door is fine to use, just watch it when you'r eopening it, there's now nothing to keep it open when you're getting in and out. As for repairing. You can drill it out and put in a new nut/bolt (I recommend using a grade 8 bolt, just for the strength) but its not required. I've also seen a guy drill a hole back about 1/4 inch and use a ballbearing roller on it with a few washers to adjust height. In any case, those rollers need to be greased every few years just to keep them quiet and from snapping off like yours did.

Hey Rev, could you scan and post that article? We love seeing any kind of performance testing information, but maybe in a new thread.

These horn button plastic replacements are available now on an as needed basis. PM me about them. I am always looking for other Z parts to model so if you are looking for that hard to find part, or if you have ideas to modify an existing part, just let me know and we can work up an idea. If any of you have a 3D Printer yourself, I can share my models on a personal use basis. I've started working on the ashtray lid but I need to see what the bottom of the lid looks like, since I don't have one to compare. Does anyone have a picture?

This is awesome that it might get a new exotic home. I really loved Oslo when I was there. A Zed would be a lot of fun out there, though, I probably don't have to tell you how much fun they are on ice. I don't know how strict the training is in Norway, but if it's anything like Finland's driver training, then you're in great shape! Rear wheel drive, no ABS, no power steering. Though I'd imagine you'd use it as a dry weather car...

That looks like it's awesome shape compared to my # 5832. Really though the low vin is noteworthy but doesnt' really add much value to the car in a non-restored condition. We've had that discussion before. That being said $1000 is a great price if it's not all rusted out. Sounds like you need to get Tony to ship it out for you. car hauler to seattle... Seatac to Norway, Oslo home, that shouldn't be too bad right? Oh, be sure to label it as misc auto parts.

I don't know that much about the VG engines. I know there's a lot you can do with one, but they're an older model these days. I, myself, like the VQ engines. Unboosted the VQs pull in around 300 horses +/- depending on model just stock. That's nothing to complain about. I've heard of TT applications pushing 500HP on low boost. There's not really an Ideal way of powering up your car beyond making sure the tune is good. All the quality parts and money won't save an engine that's badly tuned. Just putting it on the Dyno is one thing, but using that dyno as a tool to help properly adjust the fuel tables is the best idea.

Tony D, do you know if that wider gasket carried over to the later 280Z 2+2's?

Nice! I for one, apprieciate the information.

Dan is right, I may be able to print you up some new contacts on my printer. Those parts are pretty small, but I'd be willing to give it a try if you want to measure it up for me, or alternatively send one to me. My printer is a Prusa Mendel, and it works pretty well for different parts. Though I haven't printed anything that small, I'm definitely willing to give it a try. Send me a PM.

Do you still have your cold start injector? I'd try unplugging that first thing. then try starting as you have been, Fluid, then pumps and see if it dies. You say this happened out of the blue. What is your fuel pressure with your pumps running? Does it drop low after you turn it on? it may be the FPR. You've got fuel, you've got spark, is it getting air? Well the starter fluid helps, but how are you getting that into the engine? spraying it through the AFM? Do you have any obvious vaccum leaks between the AFM and the injectors? A bad tear in the afm bellows rubber could cause it to die like this.

Wow that's looking pretty sweet. Your steering shaft is tight, but it clears! I'm really impressed with that. That AC pump reallly didn't have any where to go, the Waterlines right above it would have stopped you from moving it up more than maybe 20 mm. What are those lines that the red hose is fit on near the turbo? They look like fuel lines, but I thought those came up from the right side. It will be fun clearing everything away from that Turbo. The brake lines will have to be rerouted. Any wiring on that side would need to be moved. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to make a heat shield to cover the turbo and protect the bottom of the firewall. The engine is really looking good in there. It really makes me want to get back on my VQ project. What radiator are you going to use with it? I'd heard the mishimoto rads are pretty good, you can get them with the right hand upper barb so you won't have to use a curved hose. I've seen people mod the stock radiator to move the barb, but I'm not sure that's worth it. You pulled out the stock hood latch. We could probably shave down the stock latch by 40mm or 60mm, perhaps making a billet "L" bracket out of 8mm aluminium? We'd just need to fit the stock mechanism in the stock location. Removing the lower section of the stock mount, but keeping the strength to handle shutting the hood. maybe that's a later project.

The behavior you're talking about with the relay clicking does seem to sound like a wire is arcing to the frame. If that's the case, each arc shuts off the relay and shuts off the wipers, then once it arcs enough, or contacts enough, the current spikes and pops your fuse. So tracing your wires looking for anything frayed or broken insulation probably should be your first step. I would expect it's in the wiring leading to the relay or in the relay itself. For the money and ease of repair, you could just get either a NOS wiper motor assy (if you can find it) or a used 260/280Z wiper motor assy. It shouldn't be too difficult. If you're still not sure about it, then you could replace it with the Honda Accord wiper motor swap that's detailed on here. If you're still blowing fuses after that, then your problem isn't the motor/relay it's in the switch/wiring, and that's a bit more trouble to fix. You can test the switch by replacing the fuse and just jumping the wires leading to the switch. if it still pops then it's not the switch. You can narrow it down this way. The FSM will help you figure the wires. Let us know what you figure out. Phar

Mega Squirt may help quite a bit for this, since it's much more easilly tunable. The Bosch system isn't going to care about the cam, it's the low idle that it's not going to like if you like the drag racer sound. The Bosch system only measures airflow to know how long to keep injectors open for the proper mixture. So opening the valves more or for longer/shorter isn't going to matter so far as the Bosch system is concerned. The sizing of the intake tubing could limit you more than anything. This is assuming you only change the cam. Now if you went to MegaSquirt, You'd get smoother running since the computer would be tracking a lot more points to keep the mixture right. I'm not sure that megasquirt has any settings specifically for different cams. I think it only measures Temp, CPS, CAS, TPS, MAP and O2. As you know a cam only changes the valve properties, and though it can make big changes in how the engine runs, there is no sensor for it. The EFI system is mainly concerned with having the ideal ~13:1 air/fuel at the valve when it opens, that's all it does. +Spark of course adjusts timing, but still doesn't care what cam is in there. The EFI system tries to detect how well fuel is burnt and makes adjustments in the duration that the injectors are open. if a big cam lets a lot of air fuel in and it doesn't burn well, then the Megasquirt, and MAP based modern EFI systems, will lean the mixture based on the O2 reading.

Haven't looked for one myself, but there's a big difference between R12 and R134a. if you're going to change to the newer type, you'll need to have the whole system purged and cleaned out then compatible lubricant added, then the refridgerant. It would be a good idea to talk to a reputable AC shop. They might have adapters too.

No not a Neon! Tony will hit you at 70 MPH!

Well I recieved your Picture, and this is what I came up with. I'll probably have to get the original, (or at least the pieces) to get the scale/ dimensions more correct. Let me know if you think we should look further into this. A part this size should only take about 20 min to print, but I already spent an hour on this model. (cropped image) (Model of the horntab) Phar

Well tony that's exactly why I asked if he's sure it's a 240Z, Nissan had some funky Vin numberings. Did they start counting over again with the 260Z?

Hey Dave, Yes the 280Z tank has a couple baffles, but would hang lower in the 240Z, due to the larger spare tirewell. But I think its probably the pickup more than anything. Does it have the issue when the tank is full? A full tank should be keeping the pickup under the level the whole time. I'm not sure if you tried any of those other tests. it could still be your fuel filter. A 240Z filter is too low flow and would certainly cause that. You might try a 350Z filter if you haven't already. Zero's tank looks awesome. I want to do that with my VQswap.

Are you sure it's a 240Z? Nissan/Datsun was a little vague on the actual VIN's It may be that yours is a 73, or some such. Do you have any pictures? It's not fuel injected is it? Assuming it is a 72' as you say. 99336 could be possible since Nissan didn't start each year with a new vin series. All the 240Z's were numbered starting at 00001 but 000013 was the first sold in the US. so lets see from the Zhome website: 1970 16,215 1201 319 2 3 1971 33,684 3440 894 264 89 1972 52,628 4020 362 549 494 1973 45,588 2537 783 1,114 430 Sub-totals 148,115 11,198 2,358 1,929 1,016Total 164,616Your car is a 72' so though 72' there were about 102527 US production cars, that means that your VIN of 99336 is not unreasonable and could mean yours is a late 72' car which could have some "1973" production traits.