Pharaohabq

yeah, might as well stick with stock, until something cool like yours are availiable again.

right, okay, I certainly understand YOU paying the premiums, that car is amazing and you've got the $ invested to ensure there's no equal. As for parts, I understand you've had a lot of them reconditioned. but I was looking at the plastic interior parts and just the trim, it all looks brand new... was that all stuff you bought from the NOS guy? it's amazing IMHO... even the little bolts and washers are so shiney new, amazing detail.

Heh, Yeah I guess if I had 160K that I could stand to lose then maybe it'd be a good deal, if the premiums were high enough. but as it is I'm barely affording to buy parts for mine. So again where are you finding such nice parts?

ahh okay, cool. yeah before you hit it with the Por 15, you might tap on the rust a but with a hammer and a screwdriver. It looks pretty solid, but ya never know. once it's cleaned up you should be in great shape. it really does look like an awesome find. I meant it about the cowel area, open that up and seal it well. that will help a lot in prevention, maybe even coat the area in por15 too if you have enough. Phar

I don't know how well most do, but the AC in my first 280 blew pretty cold, though in my Z32 I have now it's much colder with more volume. You might want to make sure the compressor you're going to use is compatible with R12. Some refridgerants eat the seals on different compressors. You might consider keeping as much of the swapped AC system as you can. Some of the stock S30 stuff should work, but you'll need to make sure it's cleaned out. Compressor oil etc. The set it up with the new system. that is unless you can mount the Stock S30 compresson on your V8.

C4 mirrors, Cool, those look pretty good. we'll add them to the list.

Well if you're thinking of running the turbo engine with just the carbs, you can do that, but it's kinda going to be a dog, because of the lower compression. It could be a last resort idea. Other than that, you could buy a large POD, and put your car and stuff in there, fly out and have PODs deliver it to you. not sure how well it would travel, you'd need to secure it with chains in the pod. I have no idea how to ID the trannies w/o shifting them. are there no Z club/junkyards around with a 5 sp in them?

yeah, maybe have the guy who messed it up fix it... the cork gasket is supposed to expand a little when oil gets on it. Some people say to use the silicone, but I've always had leaks from that. You might do like he said above use some hi tack dressing to hold it in place. The kind I've had good luck with looks sorta like thin molassis, very sticky stuff, but seals well. Make sure both your block and your pan are clean and smooth, you'll need to flatten those dimpled bolt holes. as for the square caps, I'd have to look at my manual again. I don't remember them. it's been a few years since I did a pan though. While your pan is out, you might as well clean it up and paint the OUTside. I used a drill with a 10mm adapter to help me get all the bolts out and back in, then torqued to about 7lbs or so. Haven't had a leak in 3 years now. Phar

I've been looking at different mirrors that would work possibly on a S30. I'm thinking I'm going to go with the S2000 mirrors, but this is a list of ones I think would fit: S2000 Miata 79-83 RX7 Mini cooper C4 Corvette (hoov100) If you know of any others that could work, please post here. I'm mainly thinking Both left and right, door mounted, motorized... I do know MSA has stock repro mirrors for a couple C's... Phar

Hmm okay, I think I see what you did. What muffler is that on the car, since you didn't use the G35 mongo muffler.

yeah, $6K is definitely too much... Though you've got the right idea finding a solid body.

Yeah, it looks pretty sweet, RHD n all. You need to really tackle the interior rust though, cuz it can get bad real quick. Look up sealing the cowel, it's where 90% of the water gets in. Yeah that bar is a foot rest. Pretty nice, What'd you pay for it if I may ask? not that I know where Oz is... I just know you're not in Kansas... Phar

All these are very good advice for going cross country. I would suggest you swap in some 2+2 seats, just for the reclineability factor, incase you in up needing to sleep in the Z. that and definitely weld those floors. those rear mounts will tear loose the instant you hit anything, and your 90 lb copilot could be an ex copilot very easilly. So yeah have the shop weld em up. it's obvious you're going with the L28. So I would also suggest putting in the 2nd fuel filter before the injector array. that'll insure you won't clog your injectors. you can also use a clear tube inline too to make sure where you're getting fuel. though, make sure it's strong enough to handle injector pressure. The Z31 ECU swap works awesome. though it's another possible thing to go wrong. Maybe drop your fuel tank and at least clean it out, and replace the seal. Keeping a list of competent Z people/clubs along the way will help you out more than anything should something go wrong. AAA, they're good if for nothing more than the cheap/free towing. for the cost it's worth it, you can cancel it after the trip. This along with everything else mentioned should get you going, assuming you finish your swap in time. oh and change your wiper blades, and fill the wiper fluid. You'll need nice new ones during the trip. Esp since it's locust season in ohio. not to mention you're bound to hit some weather along the way. Good luck, I hope you'll get to test drive a few days prior to leaving. Phar

Hey could you give more picts of that G35 exhaust? Did you have any problems hanging it, or fit troubles past the rear drivetrain? Good luck on painting it yourself, you should really practice with your gun a bit before trying to use it on your car. it's also very important to read all you can about painting and paint techniques. Maybe practice on your old junked right fender before you paint the car. Also, wear a proper mask, those paint fumes can fark you up bad. Can't wait to see how it comes out, you're doing a massive amout of work in a short time. it's inspiring Phar

Where'd you get a lot of your replacement NOS/OEM hardware? I've found it very difficult to find some of the pieces you've got there, looking brand new. I wouldn't want to be your insurance provider. Phar

awesome! looks like a good deal. but how's the rust? looks like there's a little on the front, but not too bad otherwise. Since it's a July 4'th car, how about a nice american flag motif? just kidding, Paska-billities you know...

Try these links, they seem to work. it looks like it's the front end on his site that's muffed for IE. http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2008/5/15_The_Plan.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2008/5/24_The_Car.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2008/7/26_Stripped.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2008/9/20_Rear_Suspension.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2008/9/27_Front_Suspension.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2008/10/26_Front_Suspension_Started.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2008/12/20_Rear_Suspension_Started.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2009/1/15_Front_Body_Mold_Finished.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2009/3/2_Frame_work_has_started.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2009/6/1_We_have_an_motor!.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2009/6/5_Custom_Wheel_Design.html http://web.mac.com/markrolston/NewSite/New_Z_Blog/Entries/2009/6/14_Frame_Progress.html

exactly what I was thinking.. Why was fiberglass done? I would wonder about hidden rust, and what's with the hole in the tirewell? if it's a rusted hole, then I'd be highly suspect of the car. I'm not sure I'd pay $2000 even then. of course I'm spoiled here in the SW where I can get mostly rust free cars for $600 ish...

yeah nothing like losing parts at 80MPH... or putting your foot through your floorpan.

Well nice, it's good to see that the thing will start. it sounds to me though like the carbs are pretty our of balance, and there's likely a vacuum leak. I wouldn't worry about any smoke from the tailpipe till you've had it running a while. likely there's rust all over inside the engine and on the valves etc. running a little while will give time to break that all down, and seal a little better. You should also check the timing, it could be off, if not just the mixture. But yay! good deal getting it started! getting a hold of the title should be next priority.

Okay, cool, I'll be watching, I'm very interrested in how you go about things... I'll also check out ArtMorrison. How are you planning your engine control, Are you going to use the stock computers or are you thinking you'll go with the haltech? I didn't see the fusebox or IPM., nor ECU/BCM. I would imagine you're going with the Autometer gauges since stock 350z stuff is a pain. What are you going to run as a diff? I know, sorry, lots of questions. Phar

Yeah I had to load up firefox to open your page. I gotta tell ya, I would love to have some of your toys, What are you using to bent those radius curves on the 2x4 rectangluar tubing. that's awesome. It really looks like you gutted the heck out of that 240z. I love your spaceframe idea for the rear suspension, but don't you think you'll end up with a lot of wear on those triangular pieces? (blue) Your cage looks awesome too, I love the very precise bends in the tubes, and moving the frame out should add a little more moticum of protection in an impact. I was thinking you might add a brace along the "firewall" at the bottom of the A pillar since that's a weak point in the Z's. I'm sure you know that already. I've said it 3 times already, awesome. I guess the only other thing I'd like to see are MORE pictures! maybe a little more naration of what you're doing on each step. I know there's no blueprint for this type of build, but lessons learned is always good. Thanks. n keep it up! Phar

Exactly what I was going to say. not fun. That A pillar rust looks like it'll be fun to fix too, since it's pretty deep. Remeber rust travels under the paint a little ways, so you'll need to get in there and sand away the pillar to really see the extent, then you'll know what can be cut out and replaced. That's easiest with the fender and the door taken off. It looks like you've got a bit of a project. it's really a nice 240 for only $500 on the east coast. I'll send you a PM. Phar

Hey nice try starting it. It could be bad pump but more likely clogged filters. you might install an inline filter and see if you're getting gas. The pump you can test by pulling loose the line to the carbs and putting it into an empty 2liter bottle. the cranking it you should see the pump pushing fuel into the bottle. Careful here tho, because as we all know Gas is flamable and can explode, so be cautious and don't smoke, etc. you can also spray some starter fluid into the carbs.

Okay, well for a place to start, You'll also need to get a better look at your frame rails. MSA sells the whole rails too, for a few hundred. that'll tell you what floor kit to buy. Getting a handle on the rust is a good idea. That fender w/ the holes in it should be one of your first ideas, probably before you even cut out your floors. (not that your floors shouldn't be a priority.) just for the idea that you'll get getting used to welding on the body, and how thin the metal is. Even if you're putting on flares, you'll want to get in there and get rid of the rust or it'll come back like Jason in Friday the 13th. once you know where your rust is, then get in there w/ the wire wheel and the primer/sealer. you can hit your whole body and get it under control. You'll need to sand back that bondo on the rear and see if it's got rust underneath, and of course how thick they put it on. it realy looks like they were trying to shave the rear that way. so depending on the quality of the stuff they used, it might not have rust under it. You might want to use those flapper pad disks instead of a wire wheel. they've got less chance to score the metal. If you're going to use a body shop to paint the car later, you might ask them what they'd prefer you used. That's a good start anyway. in the meantime too, you might want to get what you've got, running, unless you've got an engine ready to drop in. I assume you know how to weld since swaps usually require it.