Pharaohabq

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I can get it at Autozone.com, so I'm going to take down the number and have my local guys order it (since Autozone will do that and not charge shipping) Sounds like it might be good to run through all my cars. But I expect I should do it a day or so before I do an oil change. Phar

YEah Those are the Black Pearl "Sport Package" rims. They're very rare, just like an original black pearl. They're probably worth more than your car to the right people.

Don't worry, your Z isn't Airtight. There's plenty of air leaks around the hatch, and even if your side vents aren't functional, you'll have plenty of airflow. you can test this by opening and closing your door w/ the AC on, if you had no leaks the air pressure would make latching the door shut difficult, but I'd bet you have no trouble, and could still feel plenty of air moving. Maybe tape over the vents while you do this.. Hmm, Wow, Empty Oil bottles cut back, that might not be a bad idea at all. The shape is very similar to the real vent drains.. A heat gun to aid in shaping I but you could make a decent pair. Didn't think of that, be it could work. I should make a mould and reproduce these stock ones. I wonder how much demand there'd be for decent reproduction?

Okay, You guys will have to forgive me for asking, but What is this Seafoam stuff I've heard about on here? What is it good for? Are there different types? Are there any things I should look out for while using it, and lastly where do I get it, My Autozone said they'd never heard of it. thanks Phar

nice Shifter. I assume you'll be changing that... hehe..

YEah those Rails don't really look bad to me, and aside from the fact there's no undercoating it's looking pretty easy to clean up and seal.. tho the rails aren't the only place to be looking for rust. look in the front wheel wells above the tension bars, you want it to be solid all around there. and also look in the rear hatch, the deck, and tirewell, both get rust there, can be a pain to fix. but so far, not expecting too much more. but more picts always help, n don't buy anything site unseen, unless you want to buy my car hehe

From what I remember, the front edge has 4 screws that mount it near the door jamb and up by the roof, they're behide the rubber that seals to the door. the back end is the latch that allows the window to open, and seals it down when you close it.

Hey Justin, Glad to see you've actually worked on the car a little more. Sorry about the finger, I hope it's healed by now. It looks like you've got a good engine setup there hopefully it'll go in w/o a hitch. or more stitches. hehe. anyway, look on the seat thread on here to see which seats will fit. there's also threads on 5 lug conversion. on and forget the T-top idea. the roof is shapped all wrong for it, unless you're going to put a set of [ ] [ ] square headlights on it, and a giant whaletail. I'll PM you about the carbs Phar

Nice to see Austin's Z up there as the 1st Z. 240hoke on here..

and it's back from the dead.... old threads die hard..

yeah, exactly, if you're going to change it, you want to go with new, besides you have no ideal how old the old chain is, or how much it could have stretched. They all make a little noise. but you can get a performance tensioner w/ a roller sprocket if you've got the $$$. It's not a small job so be sure you know what you're doing before you start the project. oh and make sure you have a bottle of whiteout. you'll need it. Phar

OH!!! There's your problem w/ the heater! see that big red hose that's looped back around to the engine by the battery?? that's supposed to feed through the firewall and into the heater core. that's why you have no heat!! I would suggest you look into an aftermarket/NOS heater core, then reconnect it so you'll have heat. No doubt there's a leak or something in the old one is why they're bypass it like that. Z really looks good. You might look also into the 240z fuseblock replacement. that, I've heard is a big plus when working on 240z electricals. it's plug n play too. Read everything you can find on here about your car. there's tons of good info. oh and check your floorpans! they're notorious for hiding rust. due to cowel leakage. oh and you might want to bolt that fender back on, it's missing all its mounting bolts. grats dude! Phar

You forgot... "Roads? Where we're going we don't need Roads! "

Hey I'm also a 4x4'er and I think that Z is disgusting, but hey it's his vehicle, and at least he didn't frack up a series I. That being said. it looks like he did a decent job on the converision. I would like to see under the hood, and how he did the interior. I would hope he'd done twin sticks, and maybe some real gearing. but the frame he's got looks like it's from a Jeep YJ. (note the leaf springs, and body mounts) I guess I can't fault the guy, I mean he loves driving a Z, and what's wrong with wanting to drive it everywhere? Though I bet he cut down his quarter mile time and top speed a little. In my YJ, on 33's I can't get about about 80MPH.

Really if there's rust through the tail end, it would about guarantee there's rust in orth spots. SCCA cars aren't meant to be pretty, just functional and fast. With the engine and tranny out, it's a prertty good bet it doesn't run hehehe. Kidding. but if it's sat for 20 years, then it's a good bet there's some gummed up old gas in there which is a pain to get out. I would be cautious at best about it, though look at the engine and see if there's anything that has names other than datsun or nissan. Some of the vintage racing parts can be worth big bucks today. also look at the suspension, n see if it looks like anything other than stock. I would really doubt the car would be worth much, but hey you might be lucky. Good luck w/ that. Phar

The 280Z rear suspension should hold up pretty well. I don't know is anyone has ever swapped RX7 IRS to a S30. I'm glad you didn't sell your project. it would be unfortunate. I understand the low cash reserves though, it's why my project is stalled.

Oh man, yeah, I know what you're talking about, I had a tough time finding the tubes to go in that hatch. It was a serious pain. but hey if they're unavailible around you, (in thailand, I'm not suprized. Amazing you have a Z out there) Then making a blockoff plate is the best idea. I was almost going to make a block out of plastic and route it out with a router then drill and run tubes off that for drainage. But if you just wanted to make a block off plate and seal it with rubber it shouldn't be a big deal. You won't affect your AC or heating, You've got the Side vents for airflow, and even then those aren't needed since no S30 Z is airtight. The Exhaust fumes aren't from those vents, they're from the seals in the hatch and around the taillights. So don't worry, Blocking them off is fine. Just make sure your blockoff plate is sealed so water won't drip and rot your hatch/deck/tirewell. good luck. PharaohABQ

Hey, I was just going to say, why don't you head to the nearest pick'n pull, and clip one out. but then I realized, crap you're in Puerto, so that may not be an option, Send me a PM, and I'll hook you up w/ the guy who runs NMZCC (Albuquerque ZCC) I know he's for about 15 Z's out in his barn, I'm sure he'd be willing to cut one out and send it to you, anlong w/ about any other parts you might need, Cheap!

Oooh, hmm I love the directional pads on on the steering wheel, it will make it so much easier to aim the missile launchers but yeah, would need to make a Datsun logo to fit on the airbag that wouldn't be launched through your skull in a crash. Other than that it's a nice interior, but not Datsun. Pharaoh.

Hey Grats on getting your car back. Don't let the insurance company screw you over on parts. yeah everything will need to be aftermarket, but at leas tthe car is back in one piece and not torched as is often the case in NM. Suck you lost the rims and the damage to the radiator. Thieves suck, no 2 ways about it, they just suck. Little known fact about any S30, you can take a screwdriver insert it into the ignition an whack it w/ a hammer, and vroom, starts right up unless you have an ignition kill alarm. So if you're going to put any kind of $ into your Z, please consider getting a good alarm. That's how they stole my old 280Z, but I got mine back a week later, I was driving around n saw it sitting in a lot. Joy riders, they took my old tapes (this was years ago) but never looked in the back to get my tool box. they put 140 miles on it and even put gas in it. Cops finger printed it, but nothing ever came of that. So glad your is okay. I've got a set of old rims off my current 280z if you're interrested, you would need to pay shipping to San jose' but I bet insurance will buy you some watanabi's.. Go for 17's Phar

this is kinda off topic, but yeah there were two kinds of clutches, one what was basically a solid mounted fan, and the other what had a viscous fan clutch. Both are okay, but the viscous clutch is a little safer if anything ever gets jammed in it. MUCH MUCH more recommended is to convert it to an electric fan. that way the car warms up faster and you get about 15 more HP out of it. not to mention slightly better MPG. Phar

Is this Flushing In required when installing 240Z bumpers?

That's really looking good, Mark, So that Dash, I guess is moulded the same as the hood. Your side bars look good, are you planning on doing jumps and loop-d-loops? Cage like that you'd probably be able to. hehe. JK, but really it should do well. I was looking at when I build my cage, to cut into the top of the door and put in a bar inside along the top just below where the window somes out, though I might have to use solid so it would fit inside the door panel. The bar would tie into the upper hinge, and have a catch similar to the Z32 at the door opening. this would provide a little more side impact protection though it's probably 20-40lbs more weight. It's a thought anyway. I'm sur eyou know more about cages than I do though. Phar

Looks decent... I can't say I hate 2+2's but I like the coupes better. That hood may not be a stock hood, and I really wonder about the rust on it. at least where you are you won't have to worry as much about Rust. though curing what you have is your #1 priority. Don't take shortcuts, and before you do anything, talk to the shop where you're going to have paint done. they can steer you in a good direction and keep you from making mistakes which they'd have to fix. Also How's your Welding skills? How are the floorpans and tirewell, rear deck, frame rails and all that. Really you should have read through a lot of the threads on rust on here before buying the car so you'd more know where to look for EVIL. All in all it looks pretty decent. Just becareful in the ice and snow because Z's are notorious for sliding. Believe me, I know. But hey I'm in NM and we can't drive on ice anyway. Good luck. Phar

They say to use conductive sealer because the sender grounds to the engine block. without conductivity your sender may not have a good ground and may not function properly. you can get the sealer at nissan/autozone