Jay Gadsby

I don't think any two cars would be exactly the same. I am sure if we used a more exact method instead of the ole bendy 9f the measuring tape, we would all be different. You going to run 2.5sq tubing? I am in the same process right now. My torch went out on my plasma so waiting for that before cutting it all out.

I concur on the 40". From shroud weld in point to firewall.

It is true, the camera adds 10 pounds of rust lol. Battery box cut out, working on the frame rail so I can do the firewall, then the engine bay frame rail. The floor pan is solid everywhere except where the frame rails are. I am Sooo glad I made a rotisserie. This stuff on my back would be miserable.

I found one place about 45 minutes away that can get 20, we shall see if I am feeling adventurous. Most of the metal places around here are steel building supply places. A popular item in and around fort hood it seems. I will be using a plasma cutter to cut it, so that helps. The brake in have bends the 16 pretty well. It's only about a 50 degree bend to transition to the floor. So you are thinking a single piece with a small overlap would work where as the original piece has inches of over lap? It's all how it's welded in in guess as well. I know just adding stiffer metal does not necessarily mean stuffer panel, but compared to the wafer thin rusted out metal the PO drove around on for what seems an eternity worth of band aids and cover ups, anything will be an upgrade.

Out of the 6 metal supply companies in my area, 6 do not carry anything thinner than 18. And that is a special order costing double the amount of the 16. Unless my car is in danger of being sucked into a wormhole because I used a .02" thicker metal on the firewall and floors, I think it will suffice. Barring my choice in metal, any input on the question of multiple layers being replaced with one layer?

Mainly because it is what I could get my hands on. This car is getting the LS treatment, and is not a track car. It will be a road car with some track time (read very little). The difference in weight is a pound per square foot between .0359 (20 gauge) and .0598 (16 gauge) is 1 pound per square foot. I will just have to diet a little to make up the weight. And being a 71 240Z, this thing needs as much structural rigidity as I can throw at it. The only saving grace is that by some miracle the entire rear of the car is rust free (except the trunk sill which I already fixed). The battery box area and center of the floors are the main culprits. The front frame rails are being replaced with 14ga 2.5 square tubing. Should stiffen it all up well.

So, I have started getting deep into the rust repair phase of this project. My front frame rails need replacing, the normal frame rails from front to back as well. I am going to fabricate everything short of the rocker panels if at all possible My floor pans are rusted through, but only straight down the middle above the rails. Exception to this rule is where the firewall and the floor meet. I have the battery box cut out. Getting ready to cut out the front of the engine bay frame rail to create a new smooth firewall. Herein lies the question. Under the firewall and floor area it is two pieces of metal sandwiched in for about 6 inches into the floor area. I want to replace this all. Do I need to replace the two pieces of metal, meaning, do I need to weld in a floor patch, and a new firewall patch separate? I am running 16ga for all the patches. I have access to a rudimentary brake for bending. It would be nice to be able to run one piece from the firewall down and meet on the happy side of the floor pan. Thoughts, suggestions, bitches, gripes or complaints anyone?

I agree, it adds a little something to it.

JTR sells the yoke for a 1310 Spicer to mate to our companion flange. Summit or Jegs has the 1310 setup for the driveshaft side.

If you regret selling, you will regret not buying back. 240Z seems to be the winner thus far.

The first season I hated the show. When you sit down and tell yourself that it is scripted, it makes it a little better. I mean, on what planet would any of those cars be considered "street cars". I don't think most of them would qualify for Drag Week, nevermind pass inspection lol.

Well, he brought out the A game. Got beat out by Chief. I was happy to see a 240Z representing thougg. Better luck next time Chris.

Without hours of searching, this is all I remember seeing. More about the exhaust than the tranny, but good pics. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/107261-my-new-exhaust-pics-and-video-inside/

haha, yeah as of now I have nothing there. There was only the 4 striker pads for the lack of a better term. Two down near the deck and the other two farther up, about 5/8 of the way to the top. The hatch side has the two bolts in it where I am assuming the strut went, but no bracket there. Who knows what the PO did to this poor car. The taillights were rigged up with a brown extension cord and wire nuts.... he may have sold the brackets for crack for all I know.

This is a good question. .. my 71 came with not a Damn thing on the hatch. No brackets at all. Normal?

Good to see the Z31 getting some love. Also, good to see another 3ZCer over here as well lol.

Very very nice! What are your suspension and wheel specs if I may ask?

Haha yeah, people sure do want top dollar for LS stuff nowadays. Damn this silly, small, lightweight, receptive to modification power plant. Damn it to hell.

His name is Chris White out of good ole DFW. He did take first round against "murder nova" which makes me happy.

And they are strewn throughout every junk yard this side of the Mississippi. I am going to order the bracket this week, and do a dry run with all the accessories. car is about to hit the rotisserie to copy your frame rails Sunny lol. Then it's engine mount time.

So with all the dirty dingo lingo going around, I was window shopping their website yesterday. Came across this gem. http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=1_355&products_id=1426 It is an Alt Bracket that places the alt in the happy F-body spot, but it has the option for truck spacing. Which for me means the water pump, tensioner, 2 crank pulleys, and such in my garage are now a feasible option. 90 dollars for a bracket, or much much more for F-body stuff. And since most of you crazy kids have two turbos the size of a small Shetland Pony in front of your engine, I dont think the 3/4 inch difference will kill me in terms of space. I already pulled out the water pump neck, need to get a bit big enough to make the new hole in the front boss on the water pump. I do believe I will try and put the steam tube drop off into the top via fittings and such. I think I May have to start a build thread for that stuff. Thanks for looking guys!

My .02, if the interior is in good shape, leave it. But if repairing rust means removing it, well, you are going to need to remove some if not all. You need to do a real rust analysis first. Frame rails, floor pans, rockers, firewall by the battery, doglegs, front frame rails etc. Then decide if you want to spend the money for sand blasting. Are you doing everything on your own? Welding, dent repair? It really depends on what you a) want to spend or how much labor you are willing to put in. For autobody, auto body101.Com had a lot of info for me. Hotrodders.Com as well. Good luck either way you do it.

I was literally just talking about him yesterday with my wife. Explaining how he would come to the US for our stuff and also put on a thing for a select few over there. Thanks for all you did for our community Sir, may you RIP.

Snapped a pic.

Always something isn't it. I think the Avalanche was an "if it rains, it pours" thing. I don't miss counting little lights on my TT. The dreaded Code 34 was my arch nemesis. Ended up being a problem in the main efi harness for me. Good luck with her.