Jay Gadsby

I will have to check it out. All my gauges are going go be swapped, so I just stuck with the LS fuel sender. It goes through about 90%of its swing before any interference, so it will just read full a bit longer then plummet haha. I really wanted to keep this a road going car, so I wanted to keep the spare well. Hoping to do a lot of cruise nights and such. Thanks for the compliments guys. Trying unscrew this car is becoming a chore. It shall be doNE though.

Hey guys, just wanted to share what I have done with my 71 240Z tank. I read quite a few different threads for various vehicles and using the OEM Camaro (99-02) pump in a tank that was originally meant for carbed vehicles. Seems in the muscle car world this has been done numerous times, so why not here. Its nice to have the regulating and everything built in from the one pump. I am in the early stages (still) of doing an LS swap on my car, but at times I need a break from rust repair. Decided my next break would be my tank. So, I ordered up some rust stuff (can never get away from it on these cars it seems). Some Eastwood stuff, some KBS Coating tank sealer and etching materials. Started out flushing the tank about 10 times. Ran some degreaser through it, let soak overnight like that, and rinse some more. The smell of gasoline was still slightly present, but you really had to get your nose into the tank to get a hint of it. I decided to not run the expansion tank (I know, widely debated, to each his own type thing). I sealed off all except the 5/8 line to the filler neck. I used JB weld over a plug to fill those in. Including the feed and return line. The pickup is still in the there, but oh well.The plugs were just bolt shanks cut down and inserted after getting a coating of JB weld. They are not coming out, that is for sure. Then I had to cut the hole for the pump in the top of the tank. The hole is roughly 2.875 in diameter, and of course the largest hole say my local Lowes had was 2.75. A little dremel action fixed that right up.The pump adapter plate is a setup from VetteWorks. Comes in a nice shiny stainless and fits like a glove over the OEM pump. It only called in the instructions for tacking it in, and I on board with that. The entirety of the lower ring will be sealed in with fuel proof RTV to ensure nothing is getting by. Here is it all tacked in. Now let me tell ya, I Have deployed 5 times in support of this country, been shot at, mortared, et cetera. I have not been quite as nervous as welding on a fuel tank that night. I didnt die, so that is a good thing. Next up was the sealer. I used KBS Gold sealer. Nw, let me tell you. This stuff hardens, like a rock hard. I got a little on one of the studs, and I seriously had to file it off. It leaves it with a nice HARD silver finish inside. After that was all done, I focused on cleaning up the outside. An entire rust stripper pad later, she cleaned up well. I still had some trace rust after, but sprayed with a rust encapsulator (thinned out to about 12% and sprayed with a 1.8 tip. Laid down well). Really changed the whole tank really. Went from: to: And with the pump installed, it looks official The pump right now sits about a half inch from the bottom of the tank, but the fuel sock is not in place yet. With the sock, it should be perfect. Terrible blurry pic, but you get the idea. The only downside I have found thus far is the trunk needs to be clearanced to fit unless you lower the top of the tank. I plan on cutting out a spot large enough to allow access to the pump and building a small bulkhead (read 8"x8" should do). That should also allow for enough space for the lines to exit stage left to the front of the car. This pump only requires a feed and a t block to bring the return back. Only one line to the front of the car. The bucket on the pump supposedly keeps itself full at all times and prevents fuel starvation in cornering and accelerating. Only time will tell since I am no where near that point. I do have a pretty tank though. Now she goes into the attic till I am ready for her. Thanks for reading guys.

My lowest level on my setup was dead even with the jackstands on the front end. The only part I needed to lift was the rear. Engine hoist with chains to each bracket mounted to the bumper mounts for stability. Worked like a charm.

Well I'll be damned. Mental note to self- pay better attention to things.

There ya go Keith! But then you would have to reshape your air dam I am liking the Chevy grill. Didn't think the straight bars would pull it together that well.

Rocker Panel... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02o02i/30-7201

I have no info for you, but I do think it is sexy. Makes me want to buy a plasma cnc machine and a sheet of aluminum.

Nice! Very simple yet I am sure effective. Good luck at your event.

Are you trying to save the original pin? If I remember, you are wanting to do bolts and custom lca's. What I did was drill into end of the pin, big enough to put in either a large punch or another bolt and break out the 5 lbs sledge. It took some work, but she came out. Helped to hit from both ends to free it up.

Awesome man. Glad she is on the road. Only one more month before it starts to cool down. You can make it lol.

I think the yellow looks good with the blue of the car. just my opinion.

I had a stuck spindle pin not long ago. I ended up drilling a large hole in the end of it to slip in a punch and beat her out with a 5 lbs sledge. Probably won't work for you since even the press didn't work. Why has no one made a female spindle kit with two bolts into the ends? Would allow for a beefier thread, maybe even slide hammer happy. Probably cheaper to notch some bar stock, drill and tap and a couple hardened bolts than replacing with 90 dollar pin kits.

So new body harness and engine? I like this idea. Have you wired lights and such yet?

Not in DFW, but we have a pretty decent tuner in Temple. He is putting LSs into everything, including a monster turbo 5.3 S14. Check out SWG Performance on facebook.

Uh muh gurd, beautiful!

A bicycle gear with a mating worm gear should work. Got a picture in my head, may need to draw it up.

It looks like the crank is actually for height adjustability. My boat trailer has the same setup. Just raises and lowers the leg. His pivot point appears to be mounted to the top of it with a through pin stopper. I like the height setup for sure.

Plenty of room here

That is a good welder for sheet metal, a little small for fabrication though. Welders and air compressors are two tools I would not skimp on. Get something that will suite your needs now and anything that may arise later. Most use 18 ga on the floors, I am using 16 since it is what I have on hand. So far so good. If you can get 18, do so. I have spent as much in tools as I have car parts for this car it seems. But if you take care of em, tools will be around a long long time.

The welder I used was a beast before a lightning storm took it out. I used a thermal arc 300 amp stick welder. Now have a Tweco Fabricator 211i that does tig mig and stick dc style. I actually bought one of harbor freights little tanks and exchanged with my local jobber for a full one. Our local guy rents the large tanks at a decent price. Pm you email and I will send you the cad file.

I built my own rotisserie in my garage. Used a lot of overkill steel (1/4" 2x2 tubing) and love it. Cost about 200 with steel, wheels and pins. I have a basic Autocad drawing I did to build it. It's not broken down into individual pieces but is drawn full size so easy to measure.

How long are you running it? At idle it would take a while to get to full operating temperature and even longer to hit the threshold for fans to kick in.

Keep up the pace, you are almost there! Looking forward to seeing it on the road!

Fingers crossed for ya! Good luck with everything. If you think you tightened every hose clamp in the engine bay, you missed one, check em all again lol.

What about some sort of deflector to fit into the rails with the windows down. Kind of like the old tilt quarter windows, but entirely removable. On the windshield less power boats, a simple piece of plexiglass at the right angle can mean the difference between crying at 70mph and enjoying the speed. Aim the glass right and it should hit you square in the kisser. I will take a look at my door tomorrow.