Jay Gadsby

Ok, have a silly question. I am repacking my twisted, rusty front frame rails. Someone else had a thread regarding the same thing, and the subject of the subframe came up. In the end, one of the site gurus said "why not just weld it on. I am fully ok with that. I am running 1/8th inch 2.5 Sq tube, so plenty to attach to. Question time! Ordered me some JCI mounts for my 5.3l. Got em in the mail today. I see how the mounts sit between the subframe and the rails. If I were to permamount these as well, would I be screwing myself? Or should I be putting everything in at once and tacking/welding? Or should I be fabbing a way to utilize the original mounting points for the subframe. Stupid question I know, just wanted to sit the car to its own suspension before sitting the engine in. Thanks guys. Be gentle.

Awesome! Congrats on your success! (Note to self... I need to get my lazy ass in gear)

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-31971-Original-Equipment-Heater/dp/B000C9DA7E

No info for you, but interested since I am about to replace my front frame rails. Would be primo timing to do this sort of job. Good luck!

Thanks for the tip Keith. I will do a bench test on some of the gunk. Luckily, it is only acting as a last line of defense. The pump has an oring seal under compression from the top ring sandwich ing it between the pump and actual fuel tank. I will test it out though.

Got the nifty adapters installed. Very easy install. They have two rubber o-rings inside that seal against the plastic tube of the OEM ports. They seem to seal up nice and tight. Won't know till I get some pressure on em. Oh, I went with all Russell Brand fuel line and AN fittings. Couple more pics. Fittings installed. Got the hard sealant in place. Fuel resistant of course All back together. Also, Bob, pulled the lower bucket back, it is an internal filter, and has a brand new one on it Now I have an extra. The gap between the top and bottom is a little less than a half inch so it seems unless I extend the legs, I will lose some of my fuel usability. Once complete, I wont have to drop the tank for mods, so I can do this if it becomes an issue.

I am doing 1.5x3 tubing from front to back. Going to connect the rear "frame" all the way to the tc rod buckets, box it all in and then do the front frame rails. After all that, it's rocker time. Lol. If this car didn't hAve a clean title, semi low Vin and came with a perfect dash, I wouldn't have bothered. But, she is my retirement from the Army project.

I used MIG, with a normal mild wire. From the little research I did, and the very little welding it calls for, it has held up for the time being. From what I gather, the main issue is that the stainless in that spot will no longer be stainless, but It's also all sealed in with epoxy and encapsulator on the lower ring. The upper ring is still happy and shiny. The lower ring only calls for small tacks to the tank. The gaps left over are to be filled with a sealer. It is plenty solid. Side note- Got a lot of fuel line parts in today. Still in the process of rounding up parts, and still working on the motivation to finish the floor/frame rails so I can move on.

Internal for now. I ordered the tee fittings to create the return loop and plan on one line all the way up and a pretty filter in there somewhere. I have midterms and all sorts of crap thisbweek, but will try to look at the filter situation and fitting. Thanks for the info Bob.

I have seen pictures with the sock on the outaide, but for the life of me I can't see how to mount it. Maybe it is an introvert even so, the pump is very close to the bottom, need to get a good picture. You could always bend in the top of the tank to get it on the bottom. I am going to stick stock for now. For the time being it is a bone stock 5.3l. The bulkhead will make for easy access for future mods too

Nice, thanks for the picture. I like the idea for sure. I ordered $400 worth of fuel fittings, lines, and hose today (damn that stuff is expensive). Super exciting. lol.

Bob- the fittings can be found here. I will be ordering them this week. Mine is a very slow project right now. http://m.summitracing.com/search?keyword=russell+push+-+on+EFI+fittings Dan- I may look into that, was either that or make a cover and use bolts and foam gasketing to seal. Thanks for the idea!

Boost leak somewhere? On TT Z32s with 80 feet of plumbing, it was almost expected to leak at some point, causing it to run like dodo...

When the time comes for my slow, laborious project to drive somewhere without a tow vehicle, I am down for a meet up in DFW. Or we can head to Austin, good mid point for everyone in the state for the most part lol.

So what specifically was defective on the springs. I also have the the Vogtlands sitting in the garage patiently awaiting me to become unlazy and get the damn car off the rotisserie. Was it something substantial that can be measured free load style, or was it only noticeable upon loading the spring?

Very nice work! Love seeing people still using metal works instead of just cnc ing the world...

I concur, great job so far on the install and documentation as well. Looking forward to seeing it finished.

Run a piece of string on your accessories, measure the length, count the ribs and go to napa. Has always worked for me when I need a belt on my marine motors. Way cheaper than marine dealers

Pmed guys. Mustache bar found, just need the curved lateral bar for the rearward mounted diff. My 71 has the forward mount. Thanks guys!

I have the 240Z springs on my 71 suspension. Car is still on the rotisserie, but the front does have noticeable play in it unloaded. Mayhaps it will disappear with weight on it.

Swapping an R200 into a 240Z with the non set back diff. Need the bar and mount. I have bushings on hand, so not an issue if lacking. Thanks guys.

Wow that looks amazing!

Wow that paint is crazy. Like something from early 2000s German car shows. Everything was painted crazy ugly colors. Concept is cool though.

Woohoo, progress! Can't wait for more

Welcome to the site. Some times the answers on here require a little digging as they are part of a build or an unrelated thread. The truck intake does need swapped. It will not clear a stock hood without modification. Good luck with the swap.