j260z

check out this site http://www.topguncoatings.ca/SolidDryfilm.htm these guys do all of my coating for my car. the other cool thing about this dry film is that it is thin enough that you can coat a whole bolt and nut, threads included, and they will still thread together easily. this means that you no longer need to use anti-sieze compound on them and the bolts still retain their tension!! i also coated my calipers with dry film because 1: it is a thin film which means there is no heat build up on the calipers. normal powder coating or painting, which does look nice, retains the heat and won't let your calipers cool down enough. 2: because it is a no stick surface, i can just hose off my calipers and they are shiny clean.

muriatic acid (the old name for hydrocloric acid) will strip the zinc coating off anything faster than you can dip it and take it out even with it diluted! if you are still thinking of using acid i would consider finding a place that will replate the pan. if you really want to get tricky, you can always strip it and then get it coated with dry film at the powder coaters. dry film is really teflon coating but teflon is a registered trademark. the dry film is very durable and because it is no stick the oil will run to the bottom of the pan faster.

check out this site for pivot relocation http://240z.jeromio.com/frontcross.html

you should also check the diff strap (if you still have one).

you'll need, at least, the r 200 diff out of a late 84 or later 300zx (the diff with the 12mm ring bolts). i'm installing the cv shafts from a 300zx turbo (4 bolt flange as opposed to the 6 bolt) you can get the custom adapters from ross c at http://www.modern-motorsports.com. you can also get the brake upgrade kits from ross also. i'm running the 88 toyota 4x4 calipers with the 5 bolt vented front rotors from an 86 300zx turbo and the 5 bolt non vented discs from the 86 300zx turbo with the rear calipers from an 89 240sx. i will be going with the big brake kit from ross when i have the cash available. the other mods i'm currently doing are the 15/16 brake master cylinder and brake proportioning valve.

i would say go with the shorter knuckles. much faster steering helps with the twisties.

you want the zxt nuts. the longer axle goes on the passenger side.

check out this thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7887 i was looking at the 280zx setup a while ago but it doesn't make much sense to go to all the trouble to get that setup in an early z when some of these other power steering racks look like they will work with less modifications and are smaller.

as far as vibration goes, i believe anything under 60mph is generally a wheel balance issue and anything over 60 mph is an alignment issue. of course, that being said, any worn parts in the steering system would affect alignment.

did someone say spirit garage!!! this is one of the nicest zs i've seen.

check this out http://www.guyons.com/wingeo3.html this would be the perfect way to determine where to relocate the suspension pivot points to get rid of bumpsteer on any z at any ride height.

check out this post http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21046&highlight=

check out this site http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm there are two different r200s. the ones from the 260-280 2+2s, 280s, 280zxs and some of the early z31s all had 10mm ring bolts where as the r200s from z31s and z32s somewhere around late 84 to 89 came with the 12mm ring bolts.

i don't know of any way which doesn't involve destroying one part or another. the rubber boot is sandwiched in between the two metal flanges. i destroyed one myself trying to get them apart. the next issue is that that side doesn't come apart any further that i can see. if you could get the old rubber off you would then have to either take the tripod off the wheel end (by filing off the splines where they were pressed on), or trying to strech the new boot over the whole tripod. if somebody has another answer to this problem, other than sending them away to be rebuilt, please respond. otherwise i think i'll bite the bullet and send them in to be rebuilt.

just through the perch

i just installed infloor heating in my parents new home and the system calls for propylene glycol. i have about 5500 feet of infloor heating lines and the whole system runs at about 15 psi. i think i paid $550 - $600 CDN for 55 gallons of it from my plumbing wholesaler. the stuff tastes awful but they say you can drink it and it won't kill you i'll take the info off of the web and take it into my wholesaler and see if he can confirm that it is the same composition. ( i suspect that it would be)

Plagiarism is the sincerest form of imitation!

well it isn't the borg warner T5. i can tell you that much.

VB is victoria british. they sell z parts and accessories. here is their site http://www.victoriabritish.com/

that didn't copy and paste very well but i hope you can decipher it

here's my list. i hope it helps for what it's worth YEAR 70-71 72-76 77-79 80 81-83 82-83 T TYPE F4W71A F4W71B BW T-5 1ST 3.549 3.592 3.321 3.062 3.062 3.500 2ND 2.197 2.246 2.077 1.858 1.858 2.144 3RD 1.420 1.415 1.308 1.308 1.308 1.375 4TH 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000 5TH N/A N/A 0.864 0.773 0.745 0.780 YEAR 84-86 T 87-89 T 84-89 TYPE BW T-5 FS5W71C 1ST 3.350 3.324 3.321 2ND 2.056 2.077 1.902 3RD 1.376 1.360 1.308 4TH 1.000 1.000 1.000 5TH 0.752 0.711 0.759

if you could find a later style car in the JY you could always cut out the back panel and weld it into the 240.

check out this post from stony http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20936 he just did this type of swap on his car.

i would think so. are you on the victoria british mailing list? http://www.victoriabritish.com/ they sell all the weatherstripping kits motorsport auto also carries them http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc? http://www.cybersanford.net/default.asp these guys manufacture and sell just about any other rubber part you could need.

they are two totally different setups. i'm not saying that it can't be done but i don't see why you would want to do it. you would not only change the characteristics of the car but you would also be adding a ton of weight with the cross member and trailing arms. anything can be done with enough time and money but IMHO it would be a waste of time.