j260z

i wouldn't think bigger rotors would be better (i don't think you need more stopping power in the rear) but i have seen that stony is running the vented rear rotors from an 87 300zx. that would make a difference due to its cooling efficiency and fade characteristics.

that would be nice! the only reason i shy away from using a stock engine is because they are not cross flow.

yeah! check out this site http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/6117/zbrakeupgrade.html it will show you all that you need to know about the rear swap.

if you want to get fancy you can always get every bolt for your car in stainless from here http://shop.zcarcreations.com/searching.asp?cat=Stainless&cR=default

from what i've heard it's the shims themselves that cost the money.

check out this thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22957

that's awesome!!

check out this site http://240z.jeromio.com/frontcross.html he is a member of this forum and may have some input into this.

not a problem. i aim to please

check this out also http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm

it should just sit there and be held in by the compression of the spring.

does your transmission pop out of gear on decelleration in any gear? if so it could be that you broke a detent pin off and it is just bouncing around in there and locking out gears every once in a while. i had this happen to me once when i was racing off at a set of lights.

i'm not 100% sure but i believe that you cut off the perch just above the weld then weld on the new perch where it rests against the old weld. make sense?

talk to Ross at http://www.modern-motorsports.com he has the right stainless lines for the rear disk conversion.

your best bet is powder coating. if you get all your parts done at the same time you will save quite a bit of cash compared to taking a few pieces in at a time.

it's amazing!! all the parts,when together as a car, take up a space about 6' x 16' x 4'. with all the parts disassembled they now take up my 14'x20' room in my basement, not to mention the kitchen table is covered with steering components. this, of course, makes my wife extremely happy.

i don't think you will need any fabrication. if you take the pedal box out of the 260 it should just bolt straight across to the 280. if you've got all the clutch lines and cylinders it should be a snap to swap them over. i don't even think you will need a different tranny mount.

i hope you didn't forget the neon lights and windshield washer nozzles! do you have a line on a 7" exhaust tip yet??

Awesome!!

check here http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22599 this thread was only half way down the first page of this forum!

i did an engine swap in a renault once for a friend of the family. he was in a real hurry so he was really putting the pressure on me to get it done. i swapped one engine for another in 2.5 hours. while the engine was out we also replaced the clutch disk. in the rush i put the disk in backwards... i didn't notice because the difference was so minor. when i went to start up the car i ran into the same problem with the clutch not disengaging until the very end of the pedal travel. needless to say it took another 2 hurried hours to flip the disk around. i can't say whether or not that is the problem with your vehicle but it could be a possibility.

are you planning to section your struts? the only reason to section your struts is if you are planning to lower your car. if you are just converting over to coilovers then your struts will keep the same dimensions. what you need to do is measure from the ground to the bottom of your car at your normal ride height, then when you install your coilovers you can adjust the bottom spring perch to get you back to your normal ride height.

and i thought i was the only one using wd40 to protect bare metal!!

here are some pics this pic shows the lock bolt out and you can see the hole it came from this pic shows the lock bolt partially out. the threaded part is on the bottom. all i can say is you are lucky i have all my parts categorized and handy and that my wife is a photographer. these pictures were taken just for you with a $9000 camera.

the problem with the awd scenario is that in order to get the front diff to line up with the front wheels you have to move the engine so far forward that it screws up the weight distribution in the car. not to mention that you would probably lose most of your foot room on the passenger side due to the transfer case.