Kevin.pk

Correct. Though I'm not sure of the other brake options for this type of setup. The stock S30 caliper/rotor obviously isn't an option. I don't know of anyone who adapted the z31 calipers to the s30 for the 5 lug swap. The S12W toyota calipers bolt on the stock spidle without any modification to the spindle. The Z31 rotor is used with 35mm spacer to center the rotor in the Toyota S12W caliper. This picture might help.... check out this thread for additional info. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/80806-4-to-5-lug-swap-options/page__p__766220__hl__%2Blug+%2Bswap__fromsearch__1#entry766220 As far as the original posters question. I'm not 100% certain about the specific years/models for the correct z31 hub but I know the early Z31 turbo with 5 lug had the correct rotor. If you are buying them from the local parts store, just make certain the center section where the rotor bolts to the hub looks "scalloped" like the following picture.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2460HKR/ Definitely not. The passenger header looks like it's headed straight for the passenger floor board.

x2 Although I did manage to get it done cheaper at a local machine shop, but not by much.

I used a slide hammer to remove the rear stubs. I don't know what kind of power you are making, but it might not be a bad idea to swap in 280z stub axles/companion flanges for extra strength while you are at it. The 280z stubs have a higher spline count. My car has ~16k miles on re-drilled stock 280z stub axles so far and no problems as of yet.

No immediate plans for fog lights. I know I talked about it in the beginning. I think I am just going to get a 240z bumper to finish out the front end of the car.

It appears his plans changed.... Car is up on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Datsun-240Z-2-8L-Turbo-Race-Car-2077lbs-406RWHP-/120611424847?pt=US_Cars_Trucks#ht_1038wt_1165

This is a long shot but a loose gland nut on the strut can cause a clunk. You would also hear it on big bumps though. This happened on my car the other day, so I figured I'd through it out there.

click on the little pull down menu where it says your name in the upper right corner to go to "my settings" and then under the "profile" tab it says "change signature"

I bought the following generic sleeves for my 280z from a-1 racing products. They are diameter 2.17" http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12452-h.aspx They also sell the corresponding adjusting nut. I modified my stock upper mount to hold the smaller diameter spring.

I got the Rocker stud situation remedied. I was kind of close on the pushrod measurement with ones I already had so I tried to get away with them... lesson learned. I didn't feel like buying news ones at the time. Oh well, correct pushrods installed now and also got longer rocker studs installed as well. The old ones gave me about 3/8" of thread engagement with the poly locks, and now I've got somewhere around 1/2"-9/16" of engagement. Driven the car a few hundred miles and no worries as of yet. My next mini project, at some point this summer, is welding some v-band clamps in place of the standard 3-bolt flanges at the headers. The flanges on the downtubes(?) are bent up and I'm tired of exhaust leaks.

I think it really just comes down to personal preference.

Yep, that's my rocker stud from cylinder 1 intake. I haven't delve into it much, but at first sight i'm not quite sure what went wrong. There was no damage to the actual rocker or the pushrod. I just pulled the valve cover and the rocker and broken stud were just lying there. My grill is actually really simple. It's just two 280z grills welded together by a small connecting bracket on the backside. On the lower grill, I just cut off the ends of the top bar where they normally would have been up by the turn signals.

the car ran great until tuesday.........

As far as I know they were never painted the same color as the car from the factory. Perhaps it was a something dealers did. All bezels on the 280z were a grey metallic/graphite color. When I originally painted my car, I painted it the same color as the rest of the car. I painted them again a couple months ago to a nissan color called Smoke... paint code: k11

Well, I managed to get the car all back together. Sorry for crappy iphone pics. I ran into a couple snags but got every thing sorted out. When I went to put my harmonic balancer back into place I realized the center section was slightly loose, so a new balancer was purchased. I had also planned to sell my cam/lifters to a buddy, but I ended up discovering I had wiped a lobe... so that's trash. The gist of what was done was just checking out the valve guides/seals, Clean any carbon off the valves and replaced the cam with a hydraulic roller. I also found that Cylinder 8 was burning a little oil through the intake gasket. Here's the new "covcave" lifter.. and corresponding lobe... one of the heads after some clean-up... heads installed... New lifters, pushrods, the old balancer ,and my "barney edition" rockers lol: Intake ready for install... top end all together.... Alternator, water pump installed. Still needed new balancer at this point... went ahead and got everything else together though and then installed new balancer today. I'll post a quick video clip in a minute. I'm waiting for it to upload.

Thanks. I love the coilovers if for no other reason than they let me fit a little wider tire,lol. In all honesty they don't feel much different than the tokico springs I had before. The fact that my front struts are pretty much blown might have something to do with that though. That's one of the many things on the neverending to-do list.

Engine has been burning oil on cylinder 8 so it got a little tear down.... and changing a little something while I'm at it.

mmm BOOOST!!!! Awesome! honda s2000

Check the fusible links.

rota grids are pretty similar , just one less spoke... this is ktm's car. from this thread..... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/67525-a-few-new-photos-of-the-baby-after-new-shoes-and-a-bath/page__p__634882__hl__rota%20grid__fromsearch__1entry634882

If you use the cheapo plastic line that the guages often come with, I would be nervous too. I had a buddy that had that plastic line break and spray down the back side of his dash and eventually carpet with hot oil. I used a stainless braided hose with AN fittings. After a year and half I haven't had any issues at all. My only gripe is when its time to pull the dash I have to detach the gauges(water temp gauge too.. analog probe type) from the dash before removal.

x2 Plus, I've never been a fan of the greasy feeling it leaves on everything.

If you are going to use it with the L series, some people have had luck with using both the stock mount and Rt mount in conjunction with one another. You can also use the stock mount and then use the Rt mount with a pinion snubber/bump stop as just a limiter rather than a mount(mentioned at the first part of the post I linked). I don't think many folks have had trouble with driveline angles when solely using the Rt mount with a L series but I'm not entirely sure because I am using mine with a V8. It does lower the nose of the differential though.

Conatct Roostmonkey according to the end of the following thread, he still has plenty of RT mounts...... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/85384-rt-mounts-are-ready-for-shipping/