fl327

i like a 700r4, the nice wide gears and a good overdrive, i would preferably go this auto route because the turbo 700 is a lot cheaper than a t56, and the ride is nice and smooth,why doug nash never made a t10 overdrive? he felt that overdrive was the sure way to mess up a motor and a trans,you could say he was an overdrive hater. he did put out, slowly before he ran out on the businsess, a t10 with the 4+3 option, which is basically a t10 with an mini overdrive case at the tail end that is electro-hydraulically activated(the thing at the end uses atf!) and its like one of those gear vendors over/underdrive kits, in second gear you can hit overdrive and start going bonneville speeds, or for the streets run a close ratio box,and hit fourth, theres a button on the shifter that activates the overdrive and its like .68 or something like that, came in 80s vettes with tpi. not a six speed in the sense we know it know, what it does is make 2nd through 4th an overdrive gear. i dont know what muncies and t10s are rated for, but i do know that they were put in production cars that achieved 500hp and 500tq in the bbc vettes. the doug nash direct drive five speed is rated at 550ft/lbs, nascar runs a t10, busch national, t10 with a mag case and big spherical linkage. richmond gear took over doug nash and produces the t10s dn 4+1 and the richmond 6-which is the "inexpensive" replacement for the 4+3. oh, jtr in the first or second edition run a 4+3 in a v8z, if i found one cheap enough i would defintely consider it.

cant see how it would be much different than progressive linkage as far as the linkage is concerned. 3x2s is one of my favorite setups, what you know about 427/435 tripower? went for a ride in one of those, and there is nothing like a bbc coming full steam at 7k---WITH THE TOP DOWN!

i always think that the best motor for a roadrace is the most you can get away with in your class. depending on displacement liimits and if you can swap in a different motor from diff manufacturer. if your limited to three liters or so i would just go l28 or l28et if they would let me, and if i could use any motor i would either go busch national 3.8v6 with a t10 in jtr configuration, and a million different motors there are a lot to pick from.

i like rice rockets, i think they look really nice sometimes, sometimes people get it all twisted up and make their cars look ridiculous,(they get more girls than victories in those) but what did people think in the 70s and 80s when you had the birth of the primadonna, gnose imsa, the ubquitous front spoiler, wings, glasspacks, and that jim cook racing kit for the z, and a completely stock L motor running in it? a rice rocket thats a lot slower than it looks. for its time, the z car was the same thing, until you start pumping it up with whatever floats your boat, justifying looking that crazy-but a lot of them only had the flares and goofy wings with a big fart pipe. i talk to import guys all the time and its all love with that crowd, do you what wanna do, im related to a million and one rice rocket guys who know a million more and they are good people, maybe a little misquided, i had a civic that ran 15s once upon a time you know. i work on a lot of import cars (dont bring a fwd toyota ever again pleez) mostly hondas, actually i think they are pretty straight forward, but i wont drive one hard, theres no "rockcrusher" replacement strength tranny for those things, fwd-work of the devil i swear!!!!! honda i think is one of the easier ones, but i wouldnt want to campaign one of those ever again.

i know davy, my car is ridiculously out of tune right now. definitely not dialed in at all. i didnt drive the sucker for few months, bolted up a new intake, so i think there are a couple things i have to take care of as far as tuning goes, once i get the chance im gonna take it to our new shop and use the sniffer and this other weird diagnostic machine, it hooks up to your spark plug wires and positive lead and starts diagnosing, like a big timing light, but man this thing does crazy stuff, ignition cycles, timing, spark checks, and a dozen other functions that i am just starting to figure out. this summer when i start working there ill figure it out. oh man this new shop is the bomb. solvent tanks, smog machine, analyzers up the yang, six lifts, paint booth, exhaust rack with new mufflers everywhere and yes oh yes, frame puller and mig welders aplenty......

might have overfilled it, that causes drag on the gears, and can create leaks in the case and rear of trans as well. what weight oil did you use.

ok fine, yes the viper t56 you could call that a big block, should be very tough. i have come to terms with my car and the four speed is my favorite because of everything, the clicky shifting, the raw mechanical feel of it, and the way it tells you "you can put me in gear without the clutch" by this sound it will make that only somebody whose driven one for a while can detect, its a racers tranny for sure, it will take the pain and it will bring the pain!

all there is in my town is the rockets, including me. i like to listen to them talk and i usually dont argue with any of them, i just agree and agree and smile. i always invite them to line them up with my 18 sec car just for kicks, since they should be all over me with their 12 second stock four cyls with intake and exhaust "modifications" most of my business comes from them, and ive learned to bite my tongue and just go along with them, customer is always right. they call my car a 1st gen 300zx, known around the town as "The Fairlady" KING OF IMPORT RACING!

still havent finished all my subframe work, like the idea of the tubes from the strut towers to the firewall. im working on boxing the crap out of my car, subrames front and back with left to right reinforcements as well, i figure now is the best time since i have only about three feet of exhaust and no mufflers.

you guys dont want to hear it, but i think a T10 is stronger than any of the above trannys, none of the above ever came behind a big block in a production car. the autos are good, i think the 700r4 has a weak governer gear and theres too much plastic in it for me. the muncie is a good strong trans. true there no overdrive, but i truly dont care at this point. a four speed isnt something that i had no choice in using, its just about the ONLY TRANS FOR ME. in a v8z car i think you can use any manual and it will last a good amount of time, but they are very expensive used, and nothing can justify to me buying a 1200 6 speed with a questionable history. richmond 6 speed, now thats a tranny. im not gonna say that overdrive isnt great and very desirable, but i bang gears in my z and bang em hard, and my four speed has yet to say no.

i love my 4x4 brakes, love them. but i dont think they would hold up a racetrack but they hold up great on the street, i run metal master pads(best that kragen can do for me) and good shoes in back, on the street they stop great, with 15/16 pedal is firm, and best part is that im friends with the parts guy at my local kragen and the swap cost me 98.00 after i used the two pistons as cores!!!!! you cant beat that with a bat. that was fronts, rears cost me 16.00 shoes, 6.00 spring kit, 38.00 a drum and yes theyre aluminum, and they shiny. i have no fear whatsoever ON THE STREET if i were to go track race, probably use the 4runner/vented with ross c. rear discus upgrade with good pads.

whatever works works.

theres no replacement for displacement.

im pumped, car is almost ready for beauty projects now! this summer i may start a l28t project, actually probably will, my first attempt at making efi work for me.

mine is stock z radiator, recored to three core, runs fine, yes its brass, runs great, i run 179 on a 180 therm all the livelong day for three plus years of driving the z like i stole it. no funny brackets needed, costs a little over 100 dollars, bolts in, and works as good in a v8 car.

i got him, we went best two out of three on the freeway from a dead stop, car in back of us would high beam us and off we go, 1. lost the gate, caught him in second, pulled a headlight bucket pulled him third got about a car up 2. got nervous and burned out thirty feet, and couldnt make it the lead 3. clutchless 6k shifts and rocked a 2500 launch on the velle, didi a little better than race one, got out on him faster but at third gear he looked like he was about to get it back, but then the offramp came race over- chevelle runs a cast 454 with a cam, alum manifold, 800cfm holley, headers, good converter, shift kit, rally wheels 8 inchers i think. really good race and my first race in two or three months, diff xmember and all mounts holding tough, went and had food afterwards, it was really fun and i got all my race rocks off for a good while. now i need mufflers.

im in.

another good source for flares in jy is early eighties supras.

all i have to say is that when i ran with a fully rebuilt stock system it still sucked, it could not stop for crap, ASK AUXILARY i now run the bolt on 4x4 brakes and green shoes in the back, and it will lock up, the fronts slightly before the rears do, and it stops well consistently, not sure how it will hold up at the track but for street driving i have found they stop GRRRRRREAT! and they are about the same as getting a new set of stock calipers. but there are bigger and better brakes, open up your wallet.

thats the tpi, i think youre just about at the edge of its useful powerband, they just dont like to flow after 5k, and i think you already have the big runners and a dfi system? just be happy with it for now, a stealth ram will bolt up with a few mods though, then you have to worry about heads, camming , and a million more new things.

taking off right now i got a chevelle to kill.

who cares if its nissan or not, were not zcar.com here. of course the wrx is all wheel, but the motor is left to right like a front wheel, making the placement even harder than just making your own front suspension, you pretty much have a tube frame situation there.

ok heres what happened. i go to jump in my lovely firebird this morning, and it idles for a second, then gets rough, then eventually stalls, ive been fighting this for some time, once i resorting to running hi idle in order to get it to stop stalling, then i figured this out, MAF likes to have a solid connection with no air leaks and like to be mounted one way and one way only to run right, ok so i went to the plumbing store and mount everything really firm and nice with those turbo looking hoseclamp rubber things. ok runs alright, doesnt stall, still runs rough today i found the problem, there was a hole in the bottom of the air box that is attached to the throttle body, plugged that up with a small piece of tin rtv and tape, and boom, idles great i dont understand, yes i now the problem is gone, but why does the maf do that????? im trying to figure this fi out and its weird.

oh man you got it, must be nice, how many burnouts so far?

i bet he runs the dragon intake from rsr and the megaphone dunk muffler together to double his hp to the wheels.