fl327

hey lone, which fi are you gonna go with, tpi??? im gonna lay off the efi PROject. im gonna make a carb work for me, never really tuned one up and would like to progress in a nice evolutionary way rather than just jumping to efi. i think the 327 is gonna stay carbed, now that i know an lt1 will bolt up to the legendary m21.

hey this summer im going to pick up a 78 280, and want to do a turbo before it possibly recieves its pushrod motor, had a talk with BIG RON, about turboing the l28e, not et, i would not run insano boost poundage with it, im thinking a nice 6-7psi or so with intercooler and blowoff. but he was saying something like the z computer system is good and works as good as the zx? i know that zx has a eccs vs. the z's analog system, pros and cons anyone. heres what i would do for now before going with blower pistons, if it gets that far. a t3 fair intercooler(volvo or something like that) loud blowoff 3" exhaust, minimal restrictions in all flow characteristics stock motor and efi. i want to make a jumpy daily driver.

im in, let me know, but first what happened to the guy that has this phantom grip? i wanna hear his testimony to the merit or the faultiness of said product. posi. need posi.

i checked those out before, they look pretty cool, i dont think the guy knows his zs very well, he also has an auction with the same lights same housing everything but with a zx specific title line.

im on the low side of the hp as well, with a four speed with a one to one final drive, i have scored 18mpg driving from sf to san leandro, to fremont and back. on the street i get around ten, but ive been hotrodding so i get about 8-10 on the street, ive been keeping the revs up and the secondaries on. yeah boy.

yikes i forgot to read those hp specs, those sound like the two barrel heads, youll definitely want the four barrel heads, whoops.

i would also like to say if you have small valve heads, upgrading up would be nice, and a cam change would be nice as well, as for cam specs, the way it differs from 350 ive heard from my ace LONGROD 327 is that you add 500rpm to the listed specs for a sbc cam, so if it says 1500-5500 its 2000-6000 due to the shorter stroke i think. and for a 302 you add 1000rpm maybe a little less. best trans, the immortal muncie four speed or a t10, which can be found very cheap, makes for a driveline that will take anything that the baby z car can throw at it, or if you want an auto a th350 or a 700r4 work very well, but theres no clutch to dump.

if its a corvette 327 odds are it has more than 210hp sae, depending on what year it has between 275-350hp at 4800 and 355-430lbs at 3200 or so rpm, and if its really a vette motor it has the big valve camel hump 202-160 heads. the small journals are favored, less friction, i just pulled the valve covers and the intake manifold off my car for the first time in like a year, first time in three years the carb has ever been off the car, and it looks great down there, no sludge, pushrods like clean, lifter bores and lifters themselves looks real nice as well, tough tough motor. i think most common was vette 327/350 which is probably about 260 to the wheels, this is the killer i have in my z, and its tough, change the oil and watch the coolant, and let the rubber fly!

i dont think it would that easy, the z has a long engine bay, but not wide enough i think to accomate the fwd formation of the motor, plus you would have to fab up your own front suspension, and it would be a pain in the ass to work on, but it would be nice.

posi. need posi.

yes i know, overdrive overdrive overdrive. im wondering if an lt1 will bolt up to a four speed gm trans, i love my four speeds, plus i have four speeds to burn. is the bell different? im a caveman and i like it, but once the 327 burns out i wanna go with lt1 power, maybe with efi.

a couple guys are doing ls1 conversions, the ls6 should be physically the same thing, but the ls6 has more sophisticated efi and wiring hassles that the maros and birds dont get treated to. but it also makes more power, as the vette always does in production form, but i know that the vette has controls that govern some downright crazy functions, and may be very much harder than an ls1. 4000.00 is a good price for one of those. does a four speed bolt up to an lt1?

made a 67 stingray bow down sunday afternoon, got next to him from a roll, gave him three good blips and he slowed down and gave me a thumbs up! took a drop top m3 out of it as well, he was yuppie mobbin and scratching his gears, rolled up on him, blipped the gas then went for it, he went for it, hahhahahahahahahahaahaha... man i gotta get some mufflers.

oh, yeah the cable doesnt work very well at all as a primary means of holding diff and isolater together, (i found out the hard way) i replaced the arrestor strap, with a nylon ratcheting strap you can find at osh for about 7 bucks, hey i figure if you can use it to strap stuff to the roof of your car and speed on the freeway with it, its gotta be strong enough to do the job, i got the thickest and the shortest one they had, it has that racheting mechanism so you adjust preload(i like it) i took down the brackets that hold that strap in place, placed the rachet cable in place of it, and simply started tightening it until it started to take the shape of the arrestor strap, also, if you are going to do this, make sure that the rachet part is offcenter and not at the bottom, it is at the top not where it will ever touch the diff please(highest point possible off center)!, if it is in the middle youll hear it bonk and you wont be able to accomplish STEP 2 to the maximum useage. ok so strap is good right? use an energy suspension bumpstop, that costs about 8.00 a pair, get the lowest profile one you find, now drill a hole through that lovely strap you just made at the center of both, and shim up the bumpstop so that when you put the diff back in, it pushes the stop up about 1/2 inch(make sure to shim both sides of the strap to minimize ripping, that is good enough preload, bolt everything back up and let er rip!!! im not running the cable for now, but it does work to hold things together as a secondary means, and i will put it back in once im certain nothing else is loose back there. drove the car about 40 miles over the weekend, and so far so good, real nice, no bonks, power is getting down real nice, its working ok, you might not want to do it, it only costs 20.00.

gm sports salvage maybe after this summer if money looks better thats where ill pick up my lt1, to bolt up to my muncie.

thanx mr. c

not a stranger to fab myself, also dont want to be a stranger to kragens either.

still running at half mast at least for another couple days, all is well so far, no real street races yet im just enjoying the ride. i noticed this, with my exhaust pipes cut just after my trans, i have no exhaust fumes entering the cabin, none, its like paradise, i never thought it could be so nice and i want to keep it this way. so right now i am looking for a nice low clearance muffler that i can run with some turndowns and keep them right where they are, under the car. i saw some from flowmaster but they are too big, most shops i know of can only work up to 3" diameter pipe and cant do any size oval pipe. any ideas people?

looks like you could pull the diff out of your car without jacking it up, i like that.

if youre running an auto i dont even think you have to use a different mount, just break out the die grinder.

maybe the viper bellhousing mates up? maybe use a lakewood bell for it? sorry thats all i can figure out for cheapness. hey does anyone know if an lt1 will bolt up to a muncie four speed

headaches and superfab is why i backed off the r230 swap. unless your running insano hp and torque and autox your car alot i think the ujoint halfshafts do the job very well. cv swap would be nice too. problem i have with an r230 is the cost to make the shafts work and all the custom brackets. but it would be nice to have a limited slip back there though. i popped my r200 case open a week or so ago and it looks really fresh, no filings in the fluid or anything, through 3 years of daily burnouts and streetracing i didnt even chip a tooth, but it may be different for the others, i know i probably dont even put 300hp to the wheels, but i know i put down over 300 ft/lbs in shock launch mode. not to say i wouldnt like to have the fatman diff behind me, that would be great, but for the costs of all the machining and making parts you cant just buy, the vette irs conversion or a ford nine inch, jaguar cradle irs, 12bolt, dana 60, and various other conversions start to get really close in price and for the ford and chevy you get a choice of gears, and i dont know about the chevy but with a ford nine you can swap out the gears at will and either be a strip killer or a grocery killer, and with the ford and chevy conversions it might be cheaper and you could get parts anywhere for them and it wont cost you an arm and a leg to get it.

280zx turbo motor bolts in, i think thats the easiest. its pretty cheap if you take a lot of boneyard chances, and easy to get some good power out of. v8s take a little help to bolt in, but its off the hook. whats an lt6, do you mean lt4-the quad cam alloy vette motor. those arent cheap at all, they cost the same as a long block viper motor, might as well do one of those if you want to an exotic swap. awd? lets see it. 2jz would be great too, pricy. I like to shop at kragen and the local speedshops and junkyards for my hop up parts and maintenance parts, so i go v8, but i will be working with a 280ish z in the near future, boost. INDIVIDUALITY IS EXPENSIVE

no problems yet.

it would be nice in a 510