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Pull the coil wire off, pull off the oil drain hose under the turbo, put a bucket under the hose, crank engine until oil comes out of that hose, oozing, nasty-turbo is primed. Slip it back on, clamp it up. Crank it again without coil wire hooked up for 5 seconds or so. Ok. Start it up and keep the rpms around 2500, yes. Check everything or have a friend do it and dont let it idle for 20 minutes or so. Take it for a light cruise, check everything again. Park it and compliment yourself over and over again, possibly cwalk if youre talented.

I drive a rice rocket Zcar, lets race

Leave the cam alone and get a small hybrid turbo, youll be happy you did.

ACT uses exedy clutch discs with their own special PP. Exedy is Daikin, and they make OEM stuff for japanese cars, heck yeah its better. I personally am having a great time with the Spec Stg 2 kevlar clutch, feels lighter than stock pedal and doesnt slip at 15psi and load.

Got footage, were going to combine last week with the coming week should have the chip, straight pipe, and a upgraded ic pump. Should be fun. Have some great 4 wheel doughnuts from the s13 camp (crew) and those will be up soon as well. Hopefully I can get the z out for a few shots, fastest car out this weekend was a FD that runs 13.2, but his best 60 was 2.2

My buddys putting down 300+hp and lbs with slicks with a cf df, but it is in a 2400lb car. Hasnt slipped on dyno either.

Murder count rises: Lt1- Firebird LS1 ss camaro on 22" spinners with tvs, 6speed-beat badly sandbaggin 3 deep. wrx sti- but always REAL close.. rx7 tt-with mods lost to a single turbo rx7 No one from the honda camp will dare race an SUV anymore

When you turn up the boost, 5#it happens sometimes.

I can understand Courtesy not wanting to share too much info, makes them more liable I guess. 33.00 is cheap insurance and well worth it. I bought a fel pro kit for my engine a while back and just used what came in the kit, I would use fel pro again because I am having a good experience with it, but I will need head studs

I dont think its the head gasket that goes wrong just from boost, its state of tune. Ive run 10-15psi for a year now on a fel pro, and Im in boost alot

Still working on getting some video. Waiting for a chip, hi flow IC pump, and a few other small pieces in the mail. Cant wait to see when the typhoon gets to rev 6k, so far the factory ecm shifts at 4500, which is pretty early. Car has a shift kit so it will be nice at 6k. Running 275/40/17x9 Vette wheels with DR's in the back. Lethal. Plans are to upgrade the turbo and run a big Air to Air IC. We are going out tommorow night after we go see Kill Bill 2, will try and get footage.

z31 cas in distributor. My buddy tried high boost with the 8.8 cr setup, and detonated so hard he said he thought he broke a motor mount. Be careful

That is the best flare job ive ever seen on a z car, handsdown. Very well completed car, now I wanna see it run.

That setup should work fine, but timing is even more critical with the 8.8 cr ratio. My buddy with stock fuel 240zt with same engine made 260hp/290ft @10psi on a smaller hybrid turbo and a spearco. He went with 18btdc from 20btdc and worked fine for him. He went haltec and didnt zero his timing correctly, and at 13psi=ringlands bye bye. I believe that was at 24btdc when he thought he was at 20btdc.

I would just recrimp/solder the wires that are loose in the engine bay, and put them in a nice loom, it would look much different. Car ran well, sure its messy, but I wouldnt say nightmare.

Yeah right thats not from the junkyard,if it is why is Hoover posting the image for you?

The plumbing often does cost a whole lot more than the IC, especially if you are using ones made for another car. I bit the bullet hard and got a Spearco 221, used to run a small NPR. I did spend a lot, but I consider the intercooler a part of the body as well as a very substantial part of the hp of a turbo setup, and wanted both to do their job well.

I buy mine from my buddies speed shop, fair pricing, at least as good as tire rack, only if tire rack has falken. I mount and balance my own tires, thats where I SAVE.

Innovative Turbo systems makes one with those specific functions. Its gear sensitive too, dont ask me how.

Austin, thats a nice looking engine. Yeah, plumbing around the afm sucks. To think I once got 2.5 inch pipes to go around it boggles me, I really had to hack that radiator support.

A centerforce dual friction will probably handle the power you are looking for. Usually the one people having problems with them slipping are at higher power levels than what you are seeking with heavier z cars, like the 280z/xts. For 300ft it should be fine, I personally know a guy who makes over 300rwhp with a cfdf in a turbo 240z and he loves it.

Ive heard that 280z strut housing are taller and bigger and diameter than the 240z housings. Im wondering if anyone has just taken the full suspension off a 280z, just popped off the struts and the control arms, and bolted it up to a 240z? Im wondering if the top isolator perch is what makes a 280z strut housing taller, and if I could swap those out to make up the difference? I like the way a 280z rides but I miss the way the minilite 240z accelerates and handles. Just did a good rebuild of my 280z suspension but found a 240z deal I cant pass up, and I want the 280z stubs for an r230 conversion. 280z is lowered an inch on eibach springs and new shocks, big sway bars and lots of poly bushings. I would basically be pulling the control arms off and dropping the struts with it in the front and dropping the entire subframe out of the rear and switching places, Im wondering what I should look out for. Thanx guys.

In order to retain the fan clutch and shroud and keep the piping short, I would have the outlets rewelded to go straight up, and turn the intercooler sideways. It will be hard to run a cold air intake, you might have to run it under the car or point it at a 45 degree angle towards the ground. If you want to run the intercooler up and down, I would add a 90 degree turn to the passenger side outlet and the drivers side outlet, but then you would have to center it since you probably dont have alot of room to offset it much to the drivers side of the radiator support. If you want to run the intercooler piping through the passenger side, I would add a 90 degree bend on passenger side outlet towards pass side, move the intercooler forward and leave the other side. If you want to keep fan clutch and shroud you have to route the pipe low, and the x member sway bar or something else usually gets in the way there, and to run it low you have to run a lot of bends and a really long pipe, not the best flowing setup.

My wiring diagrams show no green wire from the middle connector from the corners. I am looking at the middle connector right now. Thee are green striped wires in the middle connector but they are nowhere near he corners. Only solid green I am seeing now goes to a connector that does not get used.

I love the ATL well cells, just dont like fuel lines in the car.