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fuel and spark only. (by the battery) Fusible link box wiring: Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive G 12v power source. Positive these two wires are the only ones needed from that big ol box, you can cut the other ones off to simplify. (found right next to ecu pins) Plug 2=Y start signal (+) --------connected this to the spade connection on the starter-have disconnected it and while the car will still start, it starts faster with it hooked up for that oem feel. GL ground for inhibitor switch-----not needed. YW speed sensor (not necessary) -----not needed. Y A/C signal (+) YW coil (-) (must use ignitor) -------goes to y/w on ignitor or ignitor - if you dont have the connector for the ignitor. other pin on ignitor goes to the ignition switch, you can use the existing b/w wire or other colored wire that is already there to supply the other side of the ignitor. B fuel pump ground if using modulator-----not needed. By the Battery Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay ------- trigger wire for bosch relay ( substituted for nissan relay for easier replacement and standard relay wiring logic, in my car i used this to trigger another relay with a 10ga hotwire, L/R is what makes the fuel pump cycle for five seconds when you turn the key on, and is good to use because if the car stalls the pump shuts off after 5 seconds. L/R=blue/red, G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator ----not needed.cut W not used -----cut Y not used ------cut BW ignition signal (+): This wire is found connected to the green efi relay, cut this and wire it to on/start of ignition key switch. now BOOST.

fuel and spark only. (by the battery) Fusible link box wiring: Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive G 12v power source. Positive these two wires are the only ones needed from that big ol box, you can cut the other ones off to simplify. (found right next to ecu pins) Plug 2=Y start signal (+) --------connected this to the spade connection on the starter-have disconnected it and while the car will still start, it starts faster with it hooked up for that oem feel. GL ground for inhibitor switch-----not needed. YW speed sensor (not necessary) -----not needed. Y A/C signal (+) YW coil (-) (must use ignitor) -------goes to y/w on ignitor or ignitor - if you dont have the connector for the ignitor. other pin on ignitor goes to the ignition switch, you can use the existing b/w wire or other colored wire that is already there to supply the other side of the ignitor. B fuel pump ground if using modulator-----not needed. By the Battery Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay ------- trigger wire for bosch relay ( substituted for nissan relay for easier replacement and standard relay wiring logic, in my car i used this to trigger another relay with a 10ga hotwire, L/R is what makes the fuel pump cycle for five seconds when you turn the key on, and is good to use because if the car stalls the pump shuts off after 5 seconds. L/R=blue/red, G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator ----not needed.cut W not used -----cut Y not used ------cut BW ignition signal (+): This wire is found connected to the green efi relay, cut this and wire it to on/start of ignition key switch. now BOOST.

I say get a beater anyway. The initial sorting out and registration costs will be alleviated by being able to just jump in and drive without the worries, and it will allow you to jump into your z and dog it to kingdom come, and when something should happen, you always have a commuter to drive around in.

almost ready to drive up to So Cal for a cf hood and rear panel, are they ready? 260/80z panel?

Just plain sick. My buddies SR20 with a t51r turbo doesnt make boost until 4500 or something like that and its amazing when the thing comes on. Thats what Im talking about.

Maybe use a spec pressure plate? not running a puck clutch but hasnt slipped on me at 12psi+ and feels lighter than a factory turbo clutch. Or maybe that z31 pressure plate?

good one

ok

centerforce easier on flywheel. i believe its an organic clutch dual friction means i think means it has weights on pp that make it engage harder on WOT, other wise its an organic clutch thats too stiff.

How can I leave Cali when we have the GOVERNATOR?

TH350 is my 2nd favorite tranny of all time, next to the M22. put one behind a BBC a while back with slicks and 400hp and its still laying rubber down, like em. TH400 too big, but you can make em clunk those shifts like no other. good luck.

Wheres the one with you in the Raiders (suckers) jersey? If you want the RB, i do take payments Holla.

rb never came to the us in a readily available passenger car format. sorry. you can only get the engines in jspec front clip form.

The Japanese would make engines a whole lot bigger if the JDM cars didnt get taxed a bunch for over 2 liters. The 4cam Lotus Lt5 SBC put out the same, maybe even a little less hp and makes torque later in the powerband for sure than the LS1, and that was DOHC with a 16 runner sequential port intake and a bunch more stuff. The Japanese stuff has to be high tech, they have to work with a smaller engine in general, just makes sense. Chevy has been toying with the idea of OHC SBCs since the 60s, and pushrods it is.

I think you have to specify just HOW stock. A lot of us run the stock engine.

Cant have a recirculator, I freakin love the rice shots. Love seeing blocks of my fellow rocketeers stare in awe of the scary 70s car audibly venting off the pain. Recirculated is audible, but open venting IS AUDIBLE. First thing I did when I got the car running was go for the loud BOV, to me its one of the joys of a turbo system, all the noises..

I would use the twin power and the 300zx coil together, msd is good but hks is style points all over the 6 box.

My 280zs converted to 240 bumpers, YEAH Le n

I agree, with factory Z ecu (at least 280zx or Z31... dont know anything about Z32) you should recirculate it or you will hurt performance... that doesn't stop a lot of guys though... Like me

Thought that only worked on Chevy?

Oh shoot didnt notice you were running a five lug, changed stubs with the z31 front hubs or what? Nice, would love to do it, but thats such a can of worms I dont even want to start. While im doing the five lug I should: go big brakes rear disk brakes cv lsd rims Aghhhh.. screw it, thats what the spare halfshafts are for right? Are you using the zxt distributor, or did you go coil packs. Haltech is still on the list of things to do, man the L motor is a completely different animal with that setup that I do know. My buddy has his cruise setup so dang lean, man... Id be on it now, but I went off and bought a couple cars with the haltech money, sold a few, bought some more, and addressing other parts of the car. Its strange, even when Im not beating the begeezus out of my car, the rubber just balds itself away? Anyways keep up the good work, Turbo 280z power YEAH

All I could get was sound, no image out of the video. We could start something like that, I relish in the fact that my car is not only a rice rocket, its the ORIGINAL rice rocket. I would do the 18s except I cant keep rubber on the rear longer than 2months How is the haltech treatin ya? I got a ride in my buddies 240 with e6x and big boost and its a blast, runs so dang GOOD... I hope to get my car up and running so I can run it at the night races friday, the typhoon guy is getting too many W's for me to just let it be. Im commited to wearing drag radials everytime I go out and about, who needs to see a 1.85 60'?? Im a rice rocket driver, I wont deny it, matter of fact, Im proud of it, Its my life, my car, and my BOOSt. That would be pretty cool to have a weekly kill video or something like that.

Id leave your combo alone, 3.9 is nice with a 6 speed. Id concentrate on tuning, with what you have it sounds like you really need to tune it. Dyno it and see what it does, sounds like you have enough stank to run 11s.

I think that with a v8z conversion 12s should be the minimal et goal, personally I believe it to be a waste of time slower than that. Guys like Don Manzo and Mas280 are what I think the v8swap is all about, consistent 11s. Turbo L motors with "suicide" high boost setups and junkyard trannys are running 12s. You guys should be killing us, right? Ls1 or slightly modded Lt1s should be running low 12/11 ets with tuning and either a good auto or a good manual driver. After seeing what Boost can do, if I were to do another v8z it would HAVE to be 400rwhp and put it to the pavement, or I would personally feel bad about myself. I understand that for some of you that its a personal achievement to create a fine muscle car and I do respect that,