fl327

Looks like more of a penny racer 350z I think, but I am happy at least at the thought of Dodge putting that Neon driveline in RWD fashion.

At the ZCCA show I talked to a few of the guys from AZCar about that same rough riding aspect of the control arms and the mustache bar solid mounting and front diff solid mounting. Basically he said "yes my stuff rides hard hard, all my parts ride hard, they put the power down". Hes right, but on a street car sometimes you do get what you ask for. But does that stuff look good Roads are pothole infested and theres always construction in San Francisco, I wouldnt last a week with all that hard mounted stuff, but if I was racing my z alot in turns im sure it would be worth the handling and the adjustabilty.

Id go for the STI right off the bat and skip the regular wrx. Sti has a stronger tranny and you can dial it in for more rwd with the touch of a dial. Also put together a bit stronger than the wrx, no disturbing z like diff clunks with the STI. STI stock has same hp as a regular wrx with stage1 vishnu ecu upgrade and bolt ons, maybe a bit more.

looks like a phantom grip, which I think isnt so good. More like a mini spool, probably helps straight line, but doesnt promote good drifting

its worth 100, theres really not a whole lot to look for, if it spins freely with no crazy noise, 99% chance its perfectly fine. does it come with the cv axles, that would be a bonus.

Thats of our friends cars.

I thought only hks had a turbo timer harness for a zx? I just spliced an hks unit in using the color codes from their website, very standard and it worked just fine. I would look up their website and match color codes up and just wire it up. I can understand from your past experience that you dont want to lose another starter and flywheel, and hopefully a harness is available for that application.

Depends on how the BOV is supposed to be setup I would believe. BOVs that are setup to be recirculated often work to bypass air to the turbo while not boosting as well, and when left open cause a huge air leak and afm and maf cars dont run very well when a air leak that big is present. Aftermarket atmosphere dumping BOVs are setup to do this and should not leak except to vent boost pressure into the air. I ran an HKS ssqv open atmosphere BOV on my turbo setup and it was fine, had no stalling issues, but it would surge a little, I like the HKS unit the best due to it being a pull type diaphram vs. push type, it does NOT vent at idle or cruise whatsoever, which can be an issue sometimes with older blitz and greddy bovs.

I would work with the ignition a bit after making sure the popoff valve isnt the cause. gapping the plugs in a big could help that stumble, are you running a msd or other ignition box, that could help it as well. Even stock boost my zx had the same issue, on a dyno it shows it as going rich as heck then backing out and leaning out, with the upgraded parts it may be exaggerating this effect with the afm efi setup. Just thoughts.

Being a parts packrat and a guy that loves to make things work where they usually dont and maybe shouldnt, I have misc. parts from nissan/chevy/honda/toyota parts scattered everywhere, and often go on tangents in the garage making them work in my zcar and my truck. Well, heres my latest tangent, not the last one im sure. I have on hand six throttle bodies from stock L series manifold, 50mm i think? I also have an old cannon triples manifold and wanted to join them. I was going to line them up and make up an adapter, and devise a way to join them so one tps reads throttle position of all six, like the 20v toyota motor does. Throttle would be actuated by a reworking of the stock ball linkage and would have to modified quite a bit im sure. I know I would also have to fab a plenum to house the itbs as well. I also want to use eccs from the z31 with this setup. I cant think of why it wouldnt work ok with some tuning, as with the joined tps linkage and a setup throttle linkage the throttles would be at the same place at the same time, I could see some variance between cylinders but at the same time I have pretty low hp expectations at this point. Looking for advice on why it may or may not work, and what I should look out for, I understand a standalone would work better for this application, but hey im just trying to make the best out of used parts that would otherwise get scrapped. Thanx guys.

most likely you will have to pull the dash...

sounds like its your turbo because theres a good amount of oil in the j pipe.

check to see if coil transistor is wired correctly?

falken azenis in the 205/50/15 are pretty nice, they do wear fast though. I wish they would make at least a 215/50 though, 280z would have a big wheel gap with the falkens.

have you checked to see if the power source from ignition/acc has 12v or so while cranking? one connection at the key source grounds out during cranking.

did not see you were from oz. if you have access to both engines you should do it i think.

Drift guys I know swear by them, i wanna get a set soon the sidewalls are real stiff.

26, 30 avail only in austrailia without a turbo i believe. the 26 although down in displacment is a detuned J Race motor, the 30 can make power the 26 is a monster.

We used a 4 to 4.5" exhaust from a sr20 front clip on a turbo 240z, talk about no low end. Had two resonators inline still pretty moany. Exhaust looks to have been scavenged and reconfigured from a diesel truck, cut it and reshape it a little and it works.

Only one I know of thats affordable to me is the L28et, drops right in, uses factory parts that can be found pretty easily (for me) and has given me nothing but pure satisfaction.

youre too late.

Getting ready to do another turbo conversion, but using more parts from the zxt body this time around including the t5 trans, cv, and diff, the car is a 2+2 and I know the driveshaft needs to get cut, but also wondering... -how much did you have to cut the 2+2 driveshaft? -has anyone used a polyurethane t5 mount for a chevy/ford sucessfully in this conversion. -im pretty sure the crossmember must be altered love to see some examples.

Just followed post1 in its entirety and converted my 75 to z31 action, AGAIN... Too bad the car just sold...

Im actually hoping my t62 doesnt spool up until 3500 or so, Im willing to really sacrifice the low end for big top end. Im going to be running a .58 exh housing so spool shouldnt be that bad. People tell me Im gonna lose races, I think Im gonna WIN...