fl327

Ka24s are free, for me

My buddies already make fun of me enough as it is for running the L motor (even though its faster than my old 327 ), if I went to a SBF theyd hang me! Ive been watching Ratsun videos over and over again, talking about the "darkside"....hmmm...

If you run the pipe off the tb across the engine, it will not clear the shroud or the clutch fan. Do you have a photo of the intercooler.

z31 has a different fuel curve that stays a bit more linear than a 81-3 efi setup. also calculates air a little better than the earlier ecus. worth doing since parts are easier to get at the junkyards.

youll have to get an exhaust made most likely after the downpipe.

Heres where they pin out at the four corners. RED-knock sensor Y/W-main harness BLK-not used BLK-Crank Angle Sensor....

pretty easy to do, after that just get longer studs or bolts.

hksusa.com should have a installation pdf. I think its MSD or Twin Power, they do the same thing I believe.

sounds like your using a t4e/t3. You may have to get a small spacer to clear the manifold. get some washers and see how much of a spacer you need. If it is really close to fitting Ive heard of somebody grinding the exhaust manifold to clear the compressor. You should be able to clock the turbo closer to stock position as well once you get the turbo on the exhaust manifold..

You may have too much antifreeze to water ratio. California weather doesnt require so much antifreeze, doesnt get cold enough I guess. I run about 30 percent antifreeze and the rest water, antifreeze really just for anti corrosion and lubrication of water pump.

Had the same issue with the temp being a little high sometimes (a hair over the middle of temp guage) and went through much the same troubleshooting, until I went to a Nissan themo, and now it stays right in the middle and right below the middle on the freeway. Even went with the nissan oil filter, good parts. Of course me being me I went schizo on the whole situation so it may not be the same result. I went and added another electric fan that cycles on and off from 190-185 and added the temp switch to my other electric fan so that it comes on at 180 and shuts off. 16" in front 10 in back of the radiator, I get hot now I know somethings up

there should be a zerk fitting somewhere on the rack that you can see underneath to give it some grease. Greased mine a while back, didnt notice anything spectacular but I was doing the whole chassis so I might as well lube the rack right? Z steering rack is very simple device and rarely needs attention more than the coupler and the tie rod ends, I dont think they go out very often, how many of us are on the original one? good luck on the project, lookin good.

Are you running afm setup, i get the same smell, but have good hatch seals Your BO has BO You could recirculate the valve if you cant take the stench, or just do the hatch weatherstripping. Im sure someone has a great scientific technical answer as to exactly why you are getting that gas smell, but right now Ive been smelling gas all day and dont have the vocabulary skills to explain it.

I have one under the knife right now, but that is trans #1, and I have to keep that one for me. I have two more coming my way and should have three by summertime. I would be willing to trade you some stuff for the next one (basically for price of shipping), which is coming out of my buddies car (yes the man that dogs his car because its there, on a clutch job once we pulled the pplate, his clutch fell off in three pieces and dust!) that tranny is holding up fine, wont send it otherwise.

My average on the freeway and street is 23mpg, if I only drove freeway it would be ALOT better than that, but once I hit the streets, I HIT THE STREETS. z cars really do hate being empty dont they? The one time my car ran out of gas and I put a gallon of gas in it to start it, fuel filter clogged on me and I would idle at 1500 with no kind of acceleration, I thought it was my distributor giving me problems. I changed the fuel filter, and I picked up 8psi fuel pressure at idle!!!!!

Nah, dont hold out on the burnouts, please! 15.2 is pretty good for a stock 280z. 90mph with the stock stuff is real good i think. You must be driving the p155 out of that bad boy, good for you! Im waiting on the results from the 1st ka trans swap before I make that an option for me. People give me their KA drivelines when I get the occasional SR work, so getting a trans isnt a problem for me, I just dont want to be the guinea pig. I have a rebuilt trans in my car for about a year now, and its been good to me, but I plan to have a lot of hook and im going to be mean to my driveline pretty soon, and I like driving the 240sxs with that trans, its a good feeling trans and I think its fairly stronger than the z trans judging by how one of my buddies does 100 dougnuts a week, drifts, and goes through a pair of tires a month but the trans has been a rock for him. This is his 2nd 240sx and he relentlessly dogged that one for a year on the same trans drifting, clutch kicking, downshifting, basically dogging it to destruction but the trans wouldnt give up, but the rods did The doughnuts and likewise destructive tactics inspire me to use parts he cant break, and inspire me to want to make my z do that, again and AGAIN

I respect your opinion, trying to do things official is a good thing. That piece looks great and im sure it will give the owner of such an item great satisfaction knowing theres one less thing to go wrong. Ill live with my rubber guides and do my headgaskets the way Nissan tells me, with a block of tapered wood and a clothes hanger

the q45 flange is way different from the tt, the tt uses ALOT of allen bolts threaded into the flange. Im going to try to put my stock flange on, think I might have to machine the hole bigger, hope not though. thanx.

I would try to get at least 500.00, msa wants 750 for theirs.

You could run that, but you have to lathe the rotors down a little and the zx calipers bolt on a different way, i think with the same bolts but they thread in differently.

Thanx! So you used the earlier r200 flange on the r230? Did that take any spectacular mod to do or did it just bolt up?

If you were staying solid rotors I would say the 4x4 solid rotor conversion is worth doing, I would rather go to the 4 piston setup with new calipers than buy new stock 2 piston units. I did the conversion before and I loved it. Those brakes stop a mini truck with a full load just fine, I think they are a good setup for a street z that needs the panic stop that a unrebuilt stock z braking system cannot provide sometimes. With the semi metallic pads and ss lines, i couldnt even get the suckers to fade, it would just lock up if i full out mashed the brake pedal, but the stopping distance was still relatively improved vs. the stock setup, which I couldnt get to lock up if i tried, it would fade before it reached that point. True, they are not the best brake setup when you compare wilwoods and the vented rotor swap, but I wouldnt go and call it a waste of time, its not.

This might be the dumbest question but it makes me curious though. Does this twin idler pulley (impressive piece i must say) let you pull of the head without hanging up the timing chain on a block of wood? It looks like you could tension the chain up by pushing the allen heads out so that a head gasket job could go by that much quicker?

Hey, been on the fence for this one for quite some time. I know I dont have super high hp and tq numbers (300hp and 350+ft @rw with 1.8 60'), but im also relentless and pretty hard on rear suspensions, which will not change soon and plan to have lots of traction. (our sucess with the typhoon has helped alot with that decision) Ive been researching and think its worth my while to go with the r230 vs. looking for the 87-9 diff (still leaves with a cv conversion and costs just about the same to convert without the glory of 9+ inches of r and p) and it looks like the full install with the chunky cv shafts comes just under the quaife lsd pack (1200.00+ before install). I have the diff and a set of axles (will be needing another set shortly) and have some questions about the pinion flange and the front mounting schemes. Heres the kicker and ultimate reason i would like to use the diff, this R230 has a KAAZ clutch pack installed Wondering what you guys have done with the pinion flange, does it swap out with earlier year pinion flanges? I love the way the 300zxtt flange is mounted (allen head bolts like 50 of them) but know that it would be extremely difficult to source a new flange or have one made, and dont want to really use it since it uses a cv shaft at the end vs. a ujoint ( making replacement dang near impossible). I have seen the adapter flange I think Tim240z posted it? The pn# would be great, think it uses a 1310 u joint, that would be awesome as well. I also would love to see what type of front mount scheme is used to bolt this puppy in. I have the stock tt x member and most of the rear suspension besides the diff, would use some of that stuff as well, or use parts of the zxtt xmember to make a mount for the front. Wondering if you guys are making a mount that ties into the rubber strap mounting holes or off the diff x member, the rear x member i know ill have to make custom or use that aluminum lsd brace. I did try to search and not much stuff came up about the mount or the flange adaptor, even though I do remember seeing something about that in a past thread. Any help would be great, and yes i know for under 400hp it might be overkill, but sometimes, Overkill is the only kill...

you can do that conversion for about 200 total for the four piston fronts. Get the calipers from your local auto supply store, someone correct me if im wrong but its the 80-84 toyota trucks with the 2.4 4wd right? use your stockers for a core, the parts guy cant tell usually. you can either buy the rubber lines from the same store at the same time, or go stainless steel all around from MSA for 70.00- I found that to be the best deal for ss lines. The rears are a little more expensive using the 240sx caliper, 84 NA 300zx rear rotors, and a bracket from Ross C at Modern Motorsports depending on where you source the rear brakes and rotors will change how much that would be.