fl327

Once clogged a fuel filter so bad that the car would barely move. When I changed the filter, fuel pressure went from 40 to 60psi!! Its definitely possible it was the filter causing early detonation. I change the filter every couple months now, and try to keep some gas in the car at all times, fill up early and what not.

Ran an intersection that had cameras and they took photos of me, but never got a ticket in the mail and checked it out at central processing, no ticket. Might have helped I was doing 6000rpm WOT in third gear with 3.54s, I didnt try to run the light, I missed the yellow.

That would be a nice kit I think, to use the front brakes in the rear you could use the toyota 4 piston on solid rear rotors and the vented in the front, man talk about binders.

Linelock brake stand ok? Music will be the sound of junkyard tires dying

ok 8)

I got the first set of 4 from a Merkur part numbers were the same on a SVO part number also same on a Turbo Tbird/same turbo too I believe its a M12 60-1 t3 looking turbo, it bolts to z exh manifold but maybe too small? all the ones I grabbed were brown top. All of them had that 2.3 liter turbo engine, SVO is intercooled I believe the others ran hot pipe. First set took me 45 minutes to pull due to stripped fuel rail bolt, the next 8 took me 30 minutes total. If the world was perfect, these would be good for 370hp from a turbo z, but they will wholeheartedly support the 300 range with conservative tuning. Waiting for some stuff to come in the mail for t04e'n OH yeah Aux, BRING THE ROTARY

Most of those will work with adaptors from Modern Motorsports limited,

Wow, I must be getting old, it seems like there are more 240sx, maximas, and sentras than Zcars in the junkyards nowadays!!! Just went on a little tour of east bay junkyards, and saw that the z cars are slowly disappearing from the yards, when it seemed like they owned them a few years back and even last year. Didnt get much, just looking for some small parts, but I did come up on 12 SVO 370 injectors

I was thinking the same thing. The welting is a nice touch and I will use it if I go ZG, but I figure when it came down to the install, I would measure and make sure flares were in the right spots, bring out the grinder, get to chopping, spot weld a few points if I see a sandwich weld that could come undone or something, drill some holes, bolt on the zg's, and let er rip. I would use small bolts and washers and nuts, and grind off the ends inside the fender if they hit the tire in full lock or something. All the trouble of installing these zg flares and it still looks like you just bolted them on to your car-You might as well bolt them to your car. Just my thoughts.

cant you just add some washers to the fuel rail mount points?

Yeah, you gotta watch out for the oil change only type places sometimes. I know of a place that once spent so much time under a viper gawking at it they drained the oil and forgot to put any back in=lawsuit

Now any of you guys with the v8s needs to go heads with JohnC already, since the v8 conversion gives you that edge, right?

I was going to make them, until I realized how easy they were to make- and I could already see how many flames online I would get that FL327 had sent them L brackets for 30.00 in the mail!!! For the rear of the car, I used early 74 bumper brackets and had to grind the holes on them a lil' to help center the bumper. I used spare halfshaft bolts to hold the bumper in, they are perfect length and all for the job. For the sides havent figured out anything permanent for them yet, they will need attention they flop around a little bit since they dont have the indentation of the 70-74 cars that seats the rear bumper sides. You can drop the bumper struts in the rear, or just take a sawzall to them, I took the sawzall out since I wasnt planning to have the car down for more than the time it took to install the bumper, this isnt a restoration, its my car. The front is easy enough. Get some L brackets that are fairly long, bolt them to the front bumper, and see where they have to be to be centered in the front of the car, I did this by myself and used a sisscor (sp) jack to hold up the front bumper while I centered it. On mine, it centered right around the holes for the old bumper supports, I fished out the old bolts and a few washers and locked it down pretty easy. The sides will line up in the front, I still have yet to use the correct bolts but I dont get pulled over!

It costs to be the boss! Ive been lucky with the turbo car, no crashes (yet)

revs too fast and redlines too early, best suited for automatic with a high geared rear end, like a 3.00 or so. Youll lose speed with the manual, but it would be nice to powershift a 4.3 turbo though

Its a long held secret which I must now reveal. How do you keep a 240z bumpers and panels free of small dings and damage? How do you avoid dings in general? How do you keep that great flush bodied rear panel straight and safe? DONT CRASH!!!!!!! No, really, thats my secret.

yes

its a pretty strong trans, My buddy has one that I ride in alot. He is extremely harsh on his 240sx, he drifts everything, downshifts daily, shifts hard, street races, does 2nd gear shifting doughnuts, burns rubber, and he is still on his 190k 1st trans behind the KA-owned the car for 1year and 35k relentless beating, two clutches this year last one came out in three pieces!. That tells me it does have a chance in a turbo application, thats for sure. Silvia tranny probably stronger, but hard to find by its lonesome.

I think you should pull the timing back some. What are spark plug gaps at? 10psi is doable on factory fuel, but you have to adjust it some. Before the fmic i was running 9psi on factory fuel, and it ran good and mean like that. I would check out fuel system too, fuel pump and all that jazz. I would doublecheck the fuel injectors as well.

"your finger is cold"

I heard that guy (I use the term loosely) marilyn manson had a rib or two removed so he could give himself helment!

adjust the valves first and see if it still smokes.

510 guys run L trans behind ka24 sometimes and dont have to change out driveshaft. I was thinking it should be the other way around and work right? KA trans is pretty strong, and they make a million and one shifters for it.

I like the Nissan trans, nothing against the t5, there just are fewer t5 trans out there in case something happens. Only been thru 2 of them so far, and I have a couple in storage baby!!!