fl327

its only a seat, they dont know where they are going! Two holes on one side almost line up with the aid of a die grinder, moving them up and out a tiny amount, and the other just do the same thing, and I bolted them down into my 75. I would like to do blue seats since the one I have works well and is extremely comfortable. The mods needed explain themselves once you pull the seat rails out of the 280. NOt hard, and they clear the trans tunnel easily. If I dont find another blue one ill have to go leather...oh well I like the blue ones though, i want to paint my car blue thought they would look cool.

I run a blue z32 seat for drivers side, one day may either do the passenger side blue or swap them both out for tt leather z32 seat. try em, there easy, im 6 foot 2, and I daily drivem.

I love harbour freight, sorry to post irrelevant to topic. paid 9.99 for spring compressors, used them, and saw metal chips flying all over the place and the rod starting bending a little bit. as soon as I got both sides out, I threw them in the garbage with them still attached to the spring, for 10.00, ill just buy another set when it comes time to them again!

thats cheap, are they ecode or sae type lights? I paid 49.99 shipped for the ecode with 100watt bulbs. ecode is flat vs. the round face of the sae type, and supposedly works better, im not a light guru at all so I dont know the specifics, but I know my lights are BRIGHT!!! 35.00 is a screamin good deal and im sure people will hit that guy up for them, thanx.

yes

Well hey thats better than the 15% I had calculated before, we'll go with yours 8) . Yes, Clutch grabs at an oem pedal height and shifts with the greatest of ease, FINALLY

ill buy any car for 500, its always worth it to me.

200sx tranny, is first where second should be?

good idea, the extra postage thing gets flagged by the post office of a possible bomb threat. the return address trick works. sounds like someone has done this before...

Ross C is making them.

Yeah, your clutch is stiff! So far the 200sx slave works well, bolts on. The stock one would work, but the pedal would be too high, and if i went lower, it would be crunchy. So far this slave is doing me david justice. Im going to adjust it again and see how it does. Its engaging right at the floor at a pedal height where the stock one wouldnt let me put it into gear, thats a good sign I think.

couldnt find any info on pp online, i just drove the car around this morning to feel it out. Pedal is only marginally stiffer, before it felt like air, now it feels like a clutch-if that makes any sense. Basically pedal isnt dramatically getting stiffer, which I dont know if that is good or not, but I do know at same pedal height the smaller sc is better at engaging and disengaging clutch. Clutch and pp are rated for 450ft/lbs, yes im pretty optimistic It feels like a stock clutch basically. I am going to raise the pedal 1mm at a time until it feels right. Shouldnt be too much higher its already pretty good.

thanx, yeah I would like the pedal a little firmer. Couldnt find a sc smaller than 11/16 out of the cars, I will try the trucks next maybe ill luck out.

I posted a while back about using the 240sx rear brake line as a clutch hose, works good, used a goodridge line off one of my sets of rear calipers. I initially didnt bleed the clutch very well, looking back the line had air in it for months, causing my pedal settings to be inaccurate. Once I finally bled the thing right, three clutch pumps and puke---overextended the pushrod. Got my spare oem out, adjusted pedal back down to stock height- "crunchy" clutch engagement. Begin to adjust pedal higher, and I find that either it is very hard to go into gear from a stop or that when it is shifting nicely from a stop, sooner or later I blow out the slave cylinder pushrod? Finally I get really upset, jump in my other car and rush the junkyards- taking every rwd nissan slave cylinder I can find. There was a 280z there so I would grab two or three of them, and bolt them up to the z tranny to check fit- 84-89 non turbo 300zx use identical slave to 70-8zcar 3/4 bore, grabbed three of those for backups, one of them was brand new! Maxima with L6 same thing. I grabbed two oddball slave cylinders from a 200sx, 11/16 bore, or .64 I did some math to calculate how much more throw I would get out of the smaller bore slave. Just about every rwd nissan/dats slave cylinder I pulled bolted straight up to the z tranny, I was happier than a clam about that one! 3/4=stock 11/16-200sx .64/.75 and I got .850 I am wondering if this means that the 11/16 slave cylinder will have 15% more throw at the same pedal height assuming the mc is still stock bore? I installed the 11/16 slave in car and put pedal back down to stock height and freeplay, and it engages a little crunchy from a stop, but goes into gear where the 3/4 setup would not go into gear. Im scared of throwing another pushrod on the floor and just want to see if Im doing this right, kinda bugs me I guess. Pedal stiffness went up a little, but way lighter than a puck clutch still. With the tiniest bit of adjustment to this slave I think I will finally have the pedal im looking for, a nice engagement close to the floor but not on the floor, and a little firmer pedal. Clutch is SPEC 240mm turbo stage 2 kevlar disk with a heavy duty pressure plate, an extremely light pedal feel so far but its holding up fine, when installed I changed pilot bearing, clutch fork, and used a new 2+2 throwout bearing mounting hub so I left these out of the equation for the weird engagement. I did a search on mechanical advantage and slave cylinder and couldnt find relevant results, so Im wondering if any of the autox gurus knew the equation so I can put together a worryfree, slave cylinder friendly, clutch setup. ****update*** bled clutch again, didnt need to but hey. raised pedal 1.1mm and adjusted freeplay, and took it for a spin. I made sure to shift as many times as possible under load, if the pushrod was going to fly out I made sure to do it close to home, and we're good! Both times the two stock bore slaves went out it was after a ride like I just took, where I get on and off the gas and try shifting it underload and from a stop, pumping the living begeezus out of the pedal. Made sure to put some load on it Pedal pressure is slightly stiffer than stock, pedal engages like stock, and best of all, it shifts nice and smooth both rolling and stationary. slave cylinder is a 1984 200sx na 11/16. Got it from the jy, after a few more days of testing im gonna get a new one. HAPPY!

My buddy was out getting a ride in a new Acura TL once upon a time and ended up not buying it because the salesperson insisted on flooring the car everywhere and hitting the tiptronic ish auto box hard everywhere, he was looking for a nice luxury sedan, not a race car. He ended up buying one but went to a different dealership to get it, where the salesperson showed him all the options of the car and how plush it was. If that was me, I would too own the dealership and get paid, after beating the crap out of that idiot salesperson.

ps. the spider plenum of the tpi does look good.

waste of time trying to get tpi to rev up even like stock Lt1. power made with tpi is for low to mid rpm thats it, even with siamesed runner big tb and the air foil, still going to run out of breath anywhere past 5500, and im being optimistic there. Can still put together 12 second maybe 11s in a z though, as its not hard to make 300hp with a 350, just have to make 300 before 5k rpm, not hard to do. Entire donor cars are anywhere from 100-1200 and up running decent enough to swap out. Its a pretty good deal for efi and an overdrive trans. If they came with turbos, I do the swap again

Go bigger. What is your setup? Its been a while. Try turbohoses.com the owner, Hoover Chan, has a turbo z with 400+rwhp and runs 420cc 550cc will support close 100hp a hole if you can tune it well and keep it together.

Ive heard some of the newer engines dont use gaskets, so they just rtv the crap out of em. Or they are too cheap to get the gasket, so they go for the rtv. For guys that put together some nice stuff, they are sloppy joe with the rtv, Ive seen diff covers with more rtv coming out the sides of the covers than sealing the cover, and its not just in a corner or a spot, its a uniform, 1/2 bead coming out the cover-they seem to only use the orange stuff too.

i dont think its much of an issue since his car isnt aggresively lowered.

every turbo silvia has a vlsd, if you get a front clip and theres new rtv on the rear cover, you have 50/50 theres a cusco or other clutch lsd in there. Jspec guys really lay the rtv down..

anyway you could weigh the two? Ive heard that the ls1 is very very beefy internally, and it makes the weight difference marginal between lt and ls1.

hahahhahahahah, funny alex funny.

Tie between Ghost Dog and the Eastsiderz