fl327

Man that sucks. Looks like he or she paid a bunch to have that vette butt grafted in, and its a good job of it too. The car is ribbed.... Most be fast too, it blew off its wing!

I like how he's using the same type wheels as he had before, just WIDER.

In 1983 Nissan began emptying parts bins like crazy. Its not uncommon to see a 1983 280zx with the turbo hood scoop, and the cv shaft rear ends.

its easier to do on the car. there should be a large phillips head screw, unscrew it and see if there is a CAS wheel underneath. I use a t handle screwdriver so I dont strip the screw. You can also use a vise to keep the bottom of the diz from spinning, and break that screw loose.

I think we lean more towards standalone fuel setups with big injectors. I like Additional injector setups myself. May do one someday.

Bone stock L28et in a 75 280z will go neck and neck with a 350z from a rolling start. If i can get good traction, I can hold position in the lead with whatever lead a good jump got me. On a road track I think Id get destroyed by a 350z, and probably lose on top end of 1/4 too.

MSA makes square and round port headers. You can use a square port header for round port heads as well.

I think its better to run zxt distributor. If you run the unilight you wont have the same timing control as the zxt.

My friends family is original owner of a 76 280z auto, and it had a r200 in it. They never swapped in a diff, it had it factory. hmmm???

Depends more on the motor than the carbs. If its a stock engine 70-78, 87 should be fine.

The senders are pretty cheap. The oil sender is the same thread as chevy, it threaded right in to my L6 when I tried to use one. Maybe try classifieds? Im pretty sure someone here has a million of those senders lurking around,.

The datsun senders work differently than Gm/Ford type. I tried to use a chevy one on an L6 once and had the same issue. I would look into getting adapters to run the datsun sender units. Autometer and many other places have these adapters.

Ive never seen data that shows that the ITB setup makes any more hp than a big single, but it does look like a fun project. Ive heard that ITB setups are harder to tune, due to engines running leaner in one cyl than the next. I saw the honda thread with gsxr throttle bodies I think it was? Looked awesome and would like to do one just for kicks one of these days.

I have the same issue with gt4. Im used to gt3 and driving hard with the 300zxtt and skyline, im used to using the brakes to pitch the car through turns. In gt4, i either hit the wall or go off track or i brake too much and the whole fleet just passes me...Im trying not to play gt4 until I finally get through gt3, or at least until all I have left are the endurance races, which kill me.

Buddy of mine ran his exhaust out the side of his car, and it didnt cure his exhaust smell issues, but then again he didnt seal up the hatch area very well, just the antenna hole. My old v8z would make me smell like gas the fumes were so bad, if you have the smells with a 6, I guess when you double the displacement it just gets worse, its something you shoudl take care of, just bad for your health!

Do they get more points depending on how dangerously dangling the oil cooler lines are??? geezzz

I am thinking best bet would be to get more track time and figure out what you want the car to do better. I like inverse weight reduction myself=more boost. If its going to be track only you can pull a lot more stuff out of the car to pull some lbs off of it, but it sounds like you have the braking, wheels and suspension department handled pretty well, just need to adjust a few things I think your set. You have a roll cage yes???

I cant think of much, sounds like the green car runs it all, i dont know power steering?

track time...

Sorry about that, for some reason I thought this was a post about 370cc injectors.. Have seen good results out of 370cc, base fuel pressure with stock fpr, and a small hole in the flapper door. You can run a wb and "tune" the orifice by going up drill bits until af is in ballpark. Wouldnt suggest drilling the flapper unless you have a spare afm, this is in no means exact science here. Im just not a fan of opening afms. I do think that the ecu does more than 42 percent duty cycle, it would be impossible for most of the people running turbo setups to get even stock hp if it only ran that low duty cycle. I dont think duty cycle is something that is lacking in the zxt efi system overall.

drill a hole in the flapper door.

just helped a friend convert car to stick. pretty easy. you need a pedal, the master cylinder (firewall is already setup to take one, just remove the blockoff plate), the hardline to the slave cylinder, the slave cylinder and a rubber line which should come with a junkyard hardline, the transmission (duh), shifter, and thats about it. Auto driveshaft works for this as well, same splines and close enough lengthwise. We managed this conversion without taking off the dash to install the pedal, and so far, so good. Had to trim about 1" off the hole in the center console, it would hit trying to shift 1-3 and 5. Remember not to drop or lose any of those e clips...

I used 300zx weatherstripping for the hatch seal in one of my cars, worked well just had to trim a foot or so off of it. Had to slam the hatch shut hard to get it to close, left it overnight and it closed normally after that, figured that was a good sign. A lot of the nissan cars use the same type seal on the hatchback but different sized depending on the car, just had access to a 300zx seals for free and thats probably the only reason I used it over anything else. Isuzu impulse weatherstripping works good on the doors.

stock injectors drop right in.

should be the same part.