fl327

mutant z car, mutant z car dash... Man thats nice.

I think turbo can make more hp, but supercharging one of those is easy, theres a million different charger kits out for those.

Venus Auto in Sacramento is selling 1jz front clips for 1500.00

Sounds like the first one is a early cover that is tapped with oil cooler fittings. The second one sounds like the larger finned rear cover that holds more oil.

Your car sounds and goes AWESOME... All the bells and whistles.

Yes, shop classes do suck if youve done anything more than change oil beforehand. What I hate even more is being around people whose sole background in mechanics is from a shop class before theyve ever touched a bolt, and not from getting dirty from going hands on, either out of neccessity or the desire to do something non oem. I knew a smog tech once who got his license from a now defunct jiffy lube program, and his sole backround in mechanics consisted of draining and filling fluids, now hes blessed with a smog license. He once said my car would explode one day because I wasnt running an EGR. Five Years in the automotive industry and the sucker cant hold a job for more than a year ( ANything other than a smog test and he will be baffled, and in a shop that will get you canned quick), hes never done a clutch and the other day I was diagnosing a car and figured out the car had a blown head gasket from a cr test. This is when I knew it was all over for the poor guy: He said "Oh, the head is connected to the engine right?" Maybe instead of jumping to the motorswap you should get in tune with the basics of maintenance and read the good books, get some hands on experience with a solid car and then get on the advanced stuff. It wont be as fun or rewarding otherwise.

It gets really expensive to get more rpm out of L motors First you would need cam, and then head work to flow the air the cam is trying to flow. At that point forged pistons is a real good idea.

If you have the ability to tune for any size given injector, GO BIG and only do it once. I agree, 550cc and youll never have to worry about that part of the equation again.

If its got its wg dump back into the exhaust, it should just sound like a normal turbo car. I dont think Ball bearing turbos sound different, they just spool faster for a given sized turbo. Might be a very thin walled exhaust, or a blade touching the compressor housing. Buying modified cars is a gamble sometimes.

Yes to all counts. I dont know if the stock turbo can make 300rwhp, but a 420cc injector has made 400rwhp on a L28, they will definitely do 350.

Hey Issac, just got the 75 running like a top! Found final issue with the car, it just needed proper reassembly and two wires reversed. Tried to set valve lash today and saw something funny, NON OEM CAMSHAFT!!!!!

I would just put the n47 engine together with whatever head it came with if you are not going to turbo the engine, the lower compression will make for a sluggish NA car. There are a few resources online that will beat MSAs prices by a lot.

Trillion Dollar Cheat Mode Enabled...

Go bigger than 370cc, like 440cc or so, youll make 300rwhp with much less duty cycle. 450cc (or are they 420cc) Mercedes 450 sel injectors slip right in. I would suggest these over the 370s, especially if you are going to keep the stock turbo.

The wiring changes arent so bad. Just be careful.

The White vg DOHC tt car is now Sky blue, and runs 10s. The VG30dett swap is definitely an awesome swap, but its a hard and expensive one. That and a RB swap are probably very close in price. vg30dett makes 300hp in its sleep and I know at least two z32 owners with 400 or more hp as daily drivers. the v8 swap will always be cheaper, shoot you can score a run of the mill sbc and automatic combo for less than 1k sometimes. JTR book and if you run into any other issues, the answers probably on this bb. The vg parts are probably just a little cheaper than the RB, but more easily available. The oh shoot factor is what comes into mind here...

One thing about the 81 harness that I hate is that it still uses an external resistor box. 81 ecu is a good one, no rev limiter. To convert it, you need distributor from 82-3, and you will need to change the distributor drive shaft, since the distributor base mating part to the oil drive spindle is different. Some minor rewiring is needed to run the internal CAS distributor, but its pretty basic. You also need to get rid of the external resistor box, which can be done pretty easily with the FSM diagrams, the 82-3 models have the resistors inside the ecu. I once ran 81` harness with 83 ecu, and in the long run I fried the harness pretty good. Come to think of it, I would use the 82-3 harness, I dont like cutting that factory harness, and I would source the later harness just for peace of mind.

should be the same thing, you may have to swap out the driveshaft flange.

2500 is pretty dang cheap, I cant get them for less than 3k anywhere.

Just go to your local autoparts store, and use the 225mm as a core, theyare like 50.00 or something like that.

Not sure, I just said yes teh first time that option came on. I sold my advance copy of the game, my gt3 skills still arent as sharp as I need them to be. We play the game a little different though, no VSD or TC devices and only hard tires, or simulation tires. We have all night sessions at $1 a game, the hardcore guys go 5-10 a game Im usually not up to the challenge, guys I play with are D1 drivers. When I play arcade style anything goes, you need to have some sticky tires and the opponents are definitely using them.

They dont make as many cool white letter tires anymore, I like how they look on the early zs with a nice 60series tire myself.

"How much Hp can a stock turbo engine make?" "Do I have Limited Slip?" "Does anyone make a kit to put a v8 in my car?"

Tell him to F--- Off. Anything else is a waste of time IME.

I used some used ss lines I had lying around for a 180sx, and they worked fine, which tells me that stock 240sx brake lines should work fine as well.