fl327

you can gut everything dang near, but i would keep all the cold start stuff, its nice. i took off the aac on my z, and starting up takes a minute, but thats it, it just takes a little longer to warm up, it still kicks over in the dead of winter like a true EFI. really want to de smog it-CARBS

race him for his rims

for sale when time comes of course, save up!

yes, GN motor and trans, my buddy has a complete setup for me, im just gonna sit on it for a while until i get my car completely dialed in as is, have my fun with the L6 in the meanwhile, research the fun and what i can do to it bone stock. i have at least six months until i even start. im lookin to start it out with mild upgrades and work my way up along with my understanding of the system, looking to put down 400rwhp. then i want to put a 9" back there and stand em on the rear bumper can that be done with about 400rwhp?

last night was at the warehouse talking to my rotary guy, and we started talkign abotu street racing, namely the night races in San Jose, and i told him that i once beat a skyline out there-my buddy starts going blue in the face and starts going off-----------"thats you? i was suposed to come out that night too, and try to race him in RX7!!!" me:"yup, i had to chase him for a mile and a half scratching second behind him, and yell at him at the meeting spot for about five minutes trying to race him, finally raced him, and beat him!" my buddy: "youre famous!" "youre the red car with a v8 right?" me-----shrugged shoulders---"i sold that car" him:-----you what!? it turns out, the street racing websites were pumped up a week before i turned out the skyline. people i knew told me about a skyline in San Jose and I was like " ill beat the skyline" i guess word leaked out because, before we raced, and after we raced, rumors were flying everywhere, and people were setting this up to happen, and it did. short story, i walked out on the skyline after first gear, and beat him until the bottom of third, where the race was over but it was evident if the race would have went over 80mph that skyline would have rocked my world, and with the upgrades he currently has-I dont think most cars could beat him now. this was about two years ago, and it was fresh on my buddies mind- HE was supposed to race the winner!!!! dont worry , at least i beat the skyline with a carb!!!! we get to talking further, and we came to the conclusion: I am not cut out for the import motors, even if i like import cars. he wants to build a turbo 2 drag car, solid axle rear, rotary to t56 adaptor, three rotor single turbo, motorcycle dash, monster car once i find out about the smog law and the calender year and if my 75 goes up for smog exempt next year, something domestic is going into my Z, with an AUTO, SLICKS, and a TURBO. my buddy works for a different shop but hes on the team though, and we also come to this conclusion: we dont work on cars because we have to, we do it cause we love cars, we love FAST cars-and what makes a better impression on customers? my excuses i know--- but im gearing up to make the change happen...

its all for sale davy, the skyline rear should be pretty cheap if you wanted it complete. check this out, KYB makes the hicas funny AWS units for them! im not sure this is skyline rear end, cause its LSD r200, but, it has like at least 12" rear discs with big letter NISSAN calipers and a five lug call me if you want me to price it out for you, as well as anything else, but there is only one skyline here now.

at the warehouse that is RB25det front clip, bone stock, with the oem 2.5" pipes and 2.25 turbo pipes-just grabbed them for ultra cheap, imma fab em up on my car to try and make a "what if" L28et factory FMIC turbo-with a combination of all NISSAN skyline and Silvia turbo piping, which i think will be just fine or my current goals.. the piping looks like the J pipe, but its ABS plastic, with double hose beads, and crush proof ends-im joining that to my NEW SILVIA THROTTLE BODY(YEEE_UHHHH) with the factory 1/4 thick super rubber 45 degree hose, that coincidentally makes the perfect bend to where i plan to run the intercooler-and that J pipe looking hose has a perfect outlet to run my crankcase vent, and i could run the silvia recirc valve, but im not. off the silvia and skyline both i got a bunch of cheap stuff with a ton of freebies thrown in, like My SKYLINE FLOORMATS yeah thats right. my daily driver toyota truck gets NISSAN 180sx floormats best believe. also got a chance to check out skyline rear suspension out of the car, its BEEF. anyone know what gears they come with, im thinking it has 3.70 or maybe 3.54, but it doesnt look like an r230 to me though, but the cv's look like something out of a bentley or something, definitley super tough. tierods in the rear suspension too? silvia just has r200, but its posi, also look pretty tough as well.

sr20 is LIGHT buddy and i picked one up with two hands each, and walked it across a warehouse.

if you are going 4x4 just to replace a oem caliper, think thats a good idea, since autozone and kragen dont check their cores. i thought they stopped way better than my busted up stock brakes, but now i have had the chance to run a 100% nicely functioning stock system, and im happy with them, just stock with reman Nissan Calipers, ss lines, drilled rotors( i dont know if they do anything but they make the swiss cheese noise) new drums and shoes, Im not looking to do anything else until i start going for the rear discs, then i will probably do something nice in the front with a vented rotor BUT NOT TONITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

looking at a set for my car from a friend of mine, are they good? i dont know anything about them except my buddy sells good stuff, anyone have any experience with them?

do you have new drums at the ready? if so, break out the die grinder and cut them SOBS off.

at 70 you got off cheap.

well.....progress, thats good man! I like to be proven wrong in this instance, i'm happy SOMEBODY took it to heart and went and did. It really is that easy. Thats cool Alex, im really interested to see how it turns out, ive had two of those turbo rotary cars and they are a ball in their own bodies. im happy to see you finally getting the party started, wish you good luck, hey how was the dynomat? use it yet? oh, and thanks for the turnsignals and valance, side valances and signals are on my 280 now and they look hot! Thats a cool swap there, all the good turbo cars are black right? (((((((((((((((((((COUGH, COUGH< COUGH---------------------DAVY??????? DAVY/?????????????

with car on, spray carb cleaner where you suspect leaks, when you hear idle go up, focus sprays a little towards that reigon, and you theres your leak.

found a few today at the junkyard with p90 heads, NISSAN valve covers, you know the big script, and F54 blocks, i did make the mistake of not looking for a knock sensor or a blockoff, would that be a sure sign of it being a turbo motor. in the two examples, one had a p79 (maxima) and the p90 one was a NA 1980 280zx and the motor looked so fresh it mustve been new, i checked external wear sign i could and it was great head to toe, anyone know the specs on these mystery L motors with the replacement motors from overseas???????

zxt gone.

it depends on what you want to do with the car, for a daily driver and v8, the auto is very very nice, one hand driving, one hand free to do whatever, stick is nice if you like stick, i like a manual trans myself. for drag racing, i like the autos, very consistent, and can be built cheaper to take high horse unlike a manual trans where you ahve to buy a crazy expensive used six speed or a 1500-more tremec. the older trans like the t10 and the th350 can take all kinds of abuse just like they are, the four speed manuals were put behind big block cars, as a reference to their FACTORY painthresholds. a th400 as well was put behind cars like the 454 chevelle and corvettes, and some of the corvettes put down 400lb like no tommorow, a 700r4 can be built to take punishment like this, but it gets very expensive unless you can do the rehaul yourself, and its not that hard, there is a video out there that shows you how to do and my buddy can rebuild those suckers in three hours with it and have your car running with one in four. overdrive trannies are going to cost you behind a v8 thats just a given, a stick trans is going to cost you even more. if you are racing and want a stick and dont drive the car a whole lot on freeway, or you want to just bang some mothergrabbin gears: i stand behind my claims that the m21 or a t10 or any four speed trans, is downright invincible in a zcar, invincible, and no i dont mean very strong, i mean invincible. gear ratios arent suited for the small cars with a close ratios, well, none of the chevy gear ratios really are, they were all made to pull a huge car off the line hard, and when put in a z, they are super low 1-3 or 1-2 in a th350 car, i had a wide ratio with a four puck clutch, and it was hard to learn it off the line, but once learned, proved to be a very formibidle ally of mine. you can get a run of the mill four speed for pennies, a rebuild kit costs 125 and they are simple as heck to rebuild. th350-4, good strong trans as well auto, and cheap to get a built one i think there is a place near me that rebuilds them with plenty clutch and shift kit for 3-400 with exchange or your busted one. the overdrives are beautiful, but they cost a lot. for a budget racer v8z i would go with at least 350 cubes from any year car, of course preferred years to me would be late sixties early 70s, more chances of getting you a nice factory forged bottom end engine, if you get lucky you will just need maintenance/go-fast: timing chain cam of choice roller rockers rebuild carb it has or get a new one nice aluminum manifold fancy valve covers if you want HEI distributor(i would shell out the MSD bucks for this one, if msd made a dist for my z i would get one.) Nice big fuel pump headers (i personally believe the biggest problem with sbc is head flow, i would have mine sent out to get hogged to the maximum and pocket ported and polished cheapo status just to get some flow out of them, or shop around for a nice set of cast iron vortecs) and a th350 for autos a four speed for stick, and let er rip if you shot around right, this combo might end up costing you less than 500.00 for a complete drivetrain, tuned right could net you 300 easy breathing 5500rpm horses, and kick some tail!!!! i know ive crossed sides and joined the L6 turbo crowd, but i still spend a lot of time working with chevy cars, i love BIG BLOCKS. you know, if something were to change in my project goals and what not, i am leaning towards a nice 250-275hp tpi350/700r4 combo with a set of flows on it, figure it would cost about 1500.00 to do, since irocs are going for peanuts these days, but not anytime soon, but the thought does come to my head at least once a week though

finally got the gremlins out of the system~!!!!! running and headlights were killing me this week, besides being ultra busy and only getting an hour at a time to diagnose and fix. installed some H4s with the small bulbs for now without relays, will relay them in once i go 90-100 for now im near stock voltage-these things are briiiiiiiiiight!!! I did make sure to fix the one eyed willy effect and my oil/water guage before i did any mods to it, so i didnt have to go backwards and double diagnose my stuff. caught a rainy night at the shop to my lonesome and just knocked it out. put in an autometer guage to replace my vdo that i thought was reading wrong, IT WAS WAY OFF. with the three inch exhaust, a stock unadjustable wastegate, and big throttle body with the J-pipe its making 8psi in the blink of an eye, it used to read 5psi, im thinking the extra 1-2 psi gain over stock was from the 3" system alone, plus an exhaust leak out the dp flange! can someone confirm the stock 280zxt boost rating? i have heard 6-7 stock but my 83 with a turbo timer in it used to read 4.5????? im rockin 8psi from 2k- i dont know, too wet outside, i just floored it in first real fast to see, NICE... this is scary as well when i think about it, that means when i had the adjustable boost guage and had to set to 8 on the old guage, i could have boosting 10=-`12 psi, and running well at that level? the zxt is gone, along with a slew of add on componentry. that turbo timer(greddy) is in my car now, along with all of its audio equipment!!! (still need an amp to get it to really blast) turbo timer sings when you turn the car on, its funny. also did something that REALLY opened my eyes, hotwired the fuel pump (porsche 944t race spec) with a relay and ten guage to the alternator, basically fully copied the kit that racetronix.com sells on the GN forums, and now the car takes off like a rocket with the fuel pressure backed down to factory specs, they say that hotwiring the pump makes it pull 18% more, I FULLY BELIEVE THAT NOW!!! the car is pulling harder at low speeds and driving better, with 10psi less rail pressure. its freakin lovely, havent had a chance to reference it to mpg yet, but i think i may gain a mile or two, its driving a lot smoother since i did that fuel mod, so i think i was really losing a bunch of voltage through the old setup. troubleshooting my sensors and all efi equipment, i also replaced two injectors, the head temp sensor, and swapped out the ecu, dist, and afm in my car for manual trans units, cant tell if that did anything, but i do know that they both worked right at least. car is running pretty tough right now, couldnt even play with half throttle because its raining cats and dogs outside, but i know its gonna run for me. next up is putting together intercooler piping and couplers, and getting my ic modded to fit in my car (NPR). next ricerocket agenda--- reinstall the 94 mustang power black leather seats that myseteriously disappeared from the v8 car, ditch the mr2 seats that are in it, and add me some amps! im going slow on the IC because A-its important to take your time on stuff like this B-i want to know exactly how much of everything I will need since the stuff is expensive, and i want good stuff holding my induction together. so for now, im gonna concentrate on things that make the car drive better, besides, GAS IS KILLING ME!

it was fun, fun indeeed, planned to build a racer and it did me well for quite a long time, but it got old on me after a while. tuesday i should know whether or not the air dam is sold or not. still need calipers?

no, use a transition, this is high pressure area as well as a very hot connection, use a transition, DO NOT SKIMP ON THE HOSES. if its stock throttle body i believe its 2.25, but you really need to get a tape measure to make sure.

slicks and nitrous

ratsun.com, you wont be sorry BIG BLOCK

replace all your windows with lexan except windshielf, fiberglass front end, fiberglass flared rears, fiberglass hatch with lexan, no heater core, bumpers, carbon fiber dash, no interior no door panels, no center console, DO IT, i still dont believe you will it, or the turbo swap, now prove me wrong.

if i see anything major on the flywheel ill pull it, but most likely, im not it was looking brand new last time i dropped trans, about three months ago. clutch was new back then too, but wont take the ups in boost im planning. clutch disk, to bearing, pressure plate, fork, and away we go. man i hate tranny jobs.

why even worry about it, hp to weight is still in your favor. you havent even done anything to your car yet, why worry about how much it weighs?