fl327

http://www.bakersfieldstreetracing.com/index1.html go to pictures it will be at 1-28-03 set of them, at the top right and bottom right v8turbo nitrous, if it runs at all hes making at least 400rwhp real easy. i can believe 13s and letting go, reaaaaaaaaal easy. now go make fun of his wing.

how rare is the L20et over in nz? if not so rare, i say bolt in an l28et, rated at 180hp stock.

p2 is the bomb

for 700 dollars- i would farm off motor swaps to your man and add something on top for me, if he prices like that often that is, i could understand if it was a oneshot deal. My man Robbie, a manager at a very busy shop (smogem) once told me that to do a clutch on a 300zxtt he charged 1399.81(customer brought in his own clutch, flywheel, and t/0 bearing),actually just got off the phone with my man and i always bug out about how much gets charged at "legit" shops, he once told me he replaced a tensioner and belt for a guy and charged the guy 331.00!!! I also see it this way, getting your car worked on for you is a luxury, not a neccesity, and shops have expenses, some shops are crooked, but a lot of shops have to charge what they do sometimes, they have overhead, have to pay people, i mean shoot, the rent on his shop is 7500 a month! You really do have to watch out and that is for certain though. Zr8ed. shoot, i would have that guy do mine for me at that price, for real though, ive heard of clutch jobs from a shop costing nearly 1k and one time 2500. I like being the wrench guy, but sometimes deals come at you so nice you have to bite. Case in point, my good buddy at the shop, my man FRANK (yeahhhhBOYEEE) will do my clutch for me for 200 bucks, whatever yeah i know i can do a clutch, been there and done that, i know that my time under the sucker is worth more than 200 to me real easy( real easy), plus when he does that work, he guarantees his work if the flywheel gets resurfaced-THATS MY MAN...and the price is right, what can i say? That guy sounds like a real sucker, sounds like he is really messing up a good thing he has going right there with the cheap motor swap and what not, i would have charged a lot more than that, thats for certain.

you can swap the harness and turbo manifold on and get to boostin real fast, then put the L28et in later, that will get the party started a lot faster.

57trim t04b/t03 is good from what i hear. stock efi dont think is enough for t04e anything...

run a b and m trans cooler for oil cooler, works fine, is a little small for application i think it gets really warm, but better than nothing and doesnt leak. oil pressure is up at least 10psi and oil is lasting me 2500 without any burn, i use 10-40 syntec blend works good.

colder oil, colder engine, colder engine-colderboost.

why does every civic, neon, celica, eclipse, and focus in reno have a huge three tier alum. wing-the same one?????????????????????????/

i would have tried to get a hold of you too man, i just lost track of everything once the hennesey, long islands, and stoli started getting into my system, and man the craps was hittin!!!! i was on those from 11pm to 830am the first night and actually was getting over good, all in all i broke even, but spent a lot in the VIP room...you know what they say about the champagne room---ITS NOT TRUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ratedZ-i honestly dont know how you live there man, its just evil man, pure frekin evil man.... for 48 hours i slept about six hours, screaming frisco city every chance i got, and alcohol poisoned like i never does man, i think its beacuse i hate beer so much, i drinks for real maiiiiiiiiiiiiiinggggg!!!!!!!!!!! i also dont know how you dont weigh like 400lbs from all the cheap food, man i must have injected 6lbs of meat a meal!!! happy your NPR install went well, im waiting on the pipe to do mines, im not running the big one , im actually going to run the smallest one with 2.5 in/out, should be fine for whatever my T3 can throw at it, all 12lbs of it, . are you really running 15 psi bone stock????? im still sick.............

hks ssqv- cant be plumbed in i got mine to sounds ricey, ya heard

if you are using the ground from the zxt harness it would be that one with the b/yellow combo goin on. all metal gm module looking thing is the transistor if its connected to the coil bracket. head temp sensor is on the side of the head, not by the therm housing, nothing there will make you run rich. yes, i just got back in from vegas last night about 6pm, it was a blast, except getting took minimum 14 stiff drinks (no beers, some comps, small bottle hennesey in my back pocket) a day starting at 1pm, two buffet meals a day( gotta do it, especially when youre rocking Eggs, bacon, porkchops, and calimari steaks for breakfast, with primerib and hash browns YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH), rolling with the baddest crew there is-my crew baby! the last day we got sick of getting broke by the tables, so we decided to throw the rest of our money away at the strip club, i got the thangs rubbed in my face for hours man oh man oh man. sin city is right

Someone with an 80s ZXT car, maybe even ZX wiring is similar... I am trying to figure out which battery posts go where. One of them is bare, with what looks like a ground connection and then connects to something else, maybe the starter? ((((((((((((((use your old positive cable, one end to battery, the other to the "nose" of the starter solenoid, to bump the car over, its just the one wire that has a spade connector on it) Then there is another terminal set with a small box on one end, with red green and black wires, which is a connection spot for about 3 different connectors on the harness. ((((((((((((that sounds like ground, with connections to the small fusible link, the rectangle box, and the efi relay Author Message Mudge Posted: 31 Mar 2003 11:12 Post subject: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I get spark when turning the key towards off, but I do not get a constant spark when I am turning it over. I unfortunately did not look at how the coil was wired in the other car, nor did I label it because it looked obvious (mistake). I am fairly certain I am using the correct part of the harness (somewhat tough to get wrong), but the complete coil wiring is a myster to me. ((((((((((((((((((jump the positive side of the coil with a wire to battery, works))))))) There is a 2 prong connector below the coil which is shorted to itself, yet has both the ground and positive coil wire going to it, so this I assume is the resistor? (((((yes, hook that up to the coil leads, and hook it up to key on power) On the distributor there is a 4 lead connection, that is hooked up to the harness. There is also however a single prong connection and I dont know what its for or where it goes, it is at the base of the dis of course. ((((leave it alone, your car will run fine without the single prong at the base of dist)))))))))))) Other than the coil connection to dis, and spark plug connections that is the only remaining one without a home. Unfortunately on the same part of the harness there are two connectors with no home, I am thinking they may be for the water pump, (((((((((((NO. water pump will run mechanical, one could be for that injector fan, which you wont need, water temp sender should be from your old harness,)))) one is a male "round-spade" type connection, ((((sounds like water temp, if its a bullet connector, but that would be from 240z harness right?)_ the other has no connector on it (broken). The broken wire was yellow and I think the male plug was black but I am braindead right now. So basically the distributor and coil are in question for me right now, the fuel pump works. I suppose its also possible that the injectors are dead, dont know. (((((((((((i dont think its the injectors, they cant all be dead, you should at least be able to get it to start off a couple.))))))))))))))) I think the rest of the wiring is ok but I will check tomorow of course, spent a couple hours trying to figure out the dis/coil thing and just no go. (((((((((((((((((coil transistor probably not wired up if everything else looks like its getting power, it needs key on power to get voltage to the coil, if you want it to start fast, you can hotwire to the battery to get it to kick over, if it does, then thats your dilema.)))))))))) Figured ground would ground somewhere, but there are two end terminals for bolt down. I will keep looking. ((((((((ground goes to top bolt of starter near the bellhousing, we left that one loose so you could hook the ground up, the other wire off of it ground to firewall.)))))f((((((it may be different on a zx, but i know for sure on my car it wont even crank if i dont ground to that stinkin top bolt.))))) Positive runs to starter, any idea which side or does it not matter? (((just to the nose of the solenoid, thats it) Do you have a diagram of the alternator side or picture? ((((((((the only two that really matter are the one with -| plug and the thick ten guage that goes to battery, you may have to do some more work since i think your car was external regulator before.)))))))))) the other plugs are for the "charge" light, which wont matter since you are using a amp/gas gas. starter solenoid should have the positive lead, the alternator feed line, and a two other thiings i dont remember right now. sounds like your real close, let me know if you need anymore help, im only a telephone call away.

triple dog dare ya

you art vant to romp wit me buai?????????????????????

you need more everything. swear we did the whole job with open end SAE wrenches, AGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHh

youre right, lets go.

i look forward to learning how to rebuild rotaries, just to learn how they tick and give me mroe know how if i plan to run one hard. were curently doing the bodywork on my buddies turbo2 after he blows up his mystery rotor, were gonna drop a 13btt into it with that adaptor for the t5, or t56 if posible. he has the same dreams of wheelstands as i, so a ford 9" is also on the list. then the wars are on, and the Z-Type project gets started....

http://www.xanga.com/home.aspx?user=karaura girlfriend of mine just emailed me this, this guy is from Speedfactor this is their teams fastest car, and man it looks good. ive taken down speedfactor cars before, but i never got the chance to see this guy, and kinda dont want to. if you go to searspoint and sac raceway alot you probably have seen this car before, its also the one my man Frank is building his RX7 to beat. if you played all the grand turismos, you will also recognize his car pretty easily. sorry about the dance music, also in the club shots, you can find me hiding somewhere 8)

exactly. pure economics. 300rwhp L28et sds, jwt, haltec, ....out of the question t3/t4.. downpipe good ic biginjectors tons of small parts that equal-way too much,. 300hp GN motor turn up boost and add a dash of fuel. and at 300, GN engine will have dang near 450 ish ft of torque off idle! im going to keep the Z the way it is for a while and drive it pretty nicely so that i can address its other issues, like comfort and safety, and keep it running well in preparation. its not going to be for six months or so, and i do plan on going to the track a few times on drag radials once i get the fmic hooked up, and let er rip to see what she pulls down. i really like how the car drives right now and behaves, im gonna do the mods to run a decent amount of boost reliably to it-and finally have time to myself while i do my research on the swap closely, and do more turbo buick research in general. v8 has only been ruled out because GM never made a stock turbo v8 in gasoline form, and factory turbo motors are what i like to work on.

got one for you, big bosch pump, it will fuel enough to run 370cc@90dc it will work great on your car!

pizza sounds good, i dont drink unless im socializing or clubbin though forget the diff swap, thatl take too long, we'll find you a 3.54 somewhere gimmie a ring.

keep the downpipe. cut the exhaust behind the dp doughnut, i think im the only guy left with a stock dp. leave stuff you dont know for sure you need alone, until its time to pull it and gimmie a ring and tell me whens good to come by for the pull.

ohc, ohv, i dont care as long as i can make some power out of it, and it was born with a TURBO. i do love the heck out of my L6 though. i wish the stock efi could do more for me though without such a low ceiling and small injectors. standalone has been ruled out too, too much for too little IMHO. plus, five feet from my laptop-----GN motor and trans, complete from intercooler to driveshaft.

one thing i know, is that the only way im even coming close to 500hp for 5k is by using my best resources-American drivelines. RB or SR o get those power levels requires way more than a5k to even get the motor in a body and drive to the store. i wont do a 1jz either, too exotic, any rb series motor too much for me as well. shoot, the way i see things, my L28et is even getting too expensive for me-Standalone managment for 300hp can, well i cant say it on line, but ill say thats real crappy hp to $ return in my eyes-but the best of any of the other motors in terms of hp to $ spent because it bolts right in, while the other ones usually need a standalone management, or a blackbelt in Kanji! if you really want the recognition and the glory, go for it. my choice, that Buick 3.8 sfi turbo with a 2004r-and thats my choice after looking at almost every option. i know a lot of guys with hands on knowledge of the turbo buick, and one crazy guy down the way from me has a tt lt1 in his t type-single digit killer. 500hp is crazy in a zcar, and will take some crazy brakes, and respect of that power under your foot. if i get my car to this level, im pulling the IRS. no funny cv shafts, no stub axles, none of that, cut out the middleman like they say. out of it completely, I dont like AUTOX and i only take a turn hard to get sideways . In goes a 9" with a four link and big discs, a race car that can drive on the street just fine, and pull both wheels up about two feet! I have come to learn i really dont like stiff driving cars, i actually like my worn out shocks and springs 280z more than my full coilover and sway barred v8240z-by a huge huge margin.. i might change the shocks and springs out to nice stocker units at the most at that level of power, i think suspension only really comes into play when you are trying to have the best of both worlds, drag and auto x, and being somewhat ok at both. if i have my pick-its drag racing, nobody is gonna jump out of their car at the light and line up the cones and challenge you to a slalom.