fl327

that combo sounds tough as heck. 500hp sounds really easy with those alum heads and a dual quad blower, real easy, but if you are going blower, i would go with a bigger engine like a 355 or so with a 8-1ish like total cr, that thing will fly!

my old carbed 327 got about 14-18, no od, 91 octane and 10:1 cr and sometimes like 5

jim cook still lists one in their catalog, but i dont think they will sell you one, they were made by camden, ive seen the same unit with different manifold on a rx7-looks mean. they go for sale once in a blue moon, for big bucks.

gonna dyno at my buddies shop, he just got his smog dyno in, its installed, but they arent switching over for a little bit yet. wondering how much it could be off?? im shooting for the stock hp and tq numbers, since im currently flying in at 6.5psi with big tb, rrfpr, fuel pump, and a 3" exh system.

L28et all the way for a budget, most reliable and the most available of all the applicable turbo import motors. five months, 15k miles, and more about 10 oil changes! a 300hp l28et wont break the bank if you take your time to put if you take your time, and take it slow on upping the boost, making sure you have the air, fuel, and spark under your thumb. you can order your parts over the phone without the secret handshake to the overseas connection (if you have one) and there are a ton of knowlegible people who have been working with the L motor for decades. rb20det-underrated im sure, its the first break away from the L motors, is .8 smaller, and makes more power than the L28et with a smaller turbo, the potential is there im 100% sure. and they are the bastard child of the RB family, making a front clip come in cheaper than a sr20. i think close to 300 or possibly more can be had with the stock efi and turbo-which has a ceramic wheel that limits boost to 14.5 psi. twin cam x flow head has to be one of the main contributors to higher numbers, and has 1000rpm more high end capability stock over the L motor. these are untapped commodity IMHO, they can from 1200-1500 for a front clip, and often include a lot of Jspec go fast components. sr20det- very strong powerplant, and more modern, which accounts for its high output, and its all aluminum, i cant see putting it into a z just because its a four cylinder, but the power potential is clearly there, its numbers stock are close to a L28et, but its lighter, smaller, and more modern. a lot of power can be made out of these as welll. they are the most popular swap motor right now, they are outselling the b-series honda motors 2 to 1, average clip cost is 2500.00, with clips containing aftermarket(which is a lot of them) going for a bit more. rb26dett-bow down. twin turbo 24 valve chaos ready to be unleashed, proof that we as Americans dont get the best the world has to offer in terms of engines. The rest of the world for the most part has been lucky enough to have these motors around since 1984, still we in the states have to gawk at one of these. it sucks. awesome potential known the whole world wide and we only get so few examples of it. if i could i would, but i wouldnt be able to maintain that driveline im sure, too exotic and too unobtainable. sweet sweet engine. vg30/d/e t/tt- one im looking at, but man from Zr8eds photos of the steering im questioning myself. 400hp daily driver with 26mpg though, and domestic avail., i can get good rates on the front clip with aftermarket on it, im still thinking about it. GN3.8-easy to work, fast as all heck, and pretty reliable i think. would be my number two choice to me, i have resources for those engines so the price wouldnt be so bad, but i like playing with the imports more, but a gn motor and 2004r does sound very enticing, and cost effective to make a streetable 400hp, one handed. these are my summary notes, im thinking in a year or so of putting this car together i want to drop in a different turbo motor, im leaning towards the twin turbo motor with a five speed, just beause i like wangan midnite so much im making mine to be a faux wangan midnite, but like the SS version of it though just my thoughts.

i tried to find one at autozone for three and a half years, and every time the inside diameter is too small to fit a z's "big mouth" gas filler, every time, if you find one let me know, mines chrome!

i can get front clips pretty cheap, especially the honda ones, they aint goin nowhere, its all about an sr20 these days it seems.

it sure is pretty, i think im gonnna stick with the relay setup im using right now, it keeps 14.4 at the pump at all times, works for me.

how much does one of those go for? looks cool.

i think its ok, but i would have them fire a little earlier than when boost comes on since they are farther away, probably have the cycle start shooting them off at close to 0hg, so that by the time you are in boost they are firing full blast to rich it up. Yo-thanx and they will be the mail friday.

8) muahahahahhahahahahaah. shell with a lot of spare parts. i was gonna just do a wangan midnite copy im thinking Gnose, zgflares, and thats it. maybe some wheels later im just gonna yank the whole front clip and shove it on my car and take hood off it cause its modded and drop it on, and primer and single stage the front in shop later this week,Gnose should be done next week, flares later.

200rwhp is fun as heck in an early z, you know if you didnt have the dyno and diagnostics you might be happier thinking you had 300 or so, but a lot to impending danger. i have the package ready to go friday, i have a lot of packages to drop off friday. cool.

i found they bolt right up with 3/16" brakeline fittings.

i meant 300hp after i add two injectors, with the math i did with injectors running no harder than 80% max duty cycle i got 265hp at the crank for what the stock inj by themselves can take. do you still want the fans?

try and pinpoint which lifters are ticking, which can be hard, ive heard of people running atf in the engine oil for a few miles, and then changing it out to get the ticking out, depending on how soiled they are is how good that works i woudl think, you may have to yank them all and clean them.

put me down for number16- just a dp please

i dont know but im gonna rock a 150.00 gnose baby!

you can put the vacum line anywhere, the orifice closest to the one where you get your vac signal from is the one you should use, if you use one at all. if youre doing an intercooler soon i wouldnt weld it on, you would be wasting the flange doing that i think.

i am proabably going with the sds aic kit , it fires two additional injectors into the tb that you dial in to fire with two knobs, one for pulse width and the other knob controls what part of the vacum/boost they come on, and uses a map sensor to do it, pretty simple hook up, and it comes with two 480cc injectors, did the math, it will support 300hp with the stock injectors. if youre looking for a turbo, try alex costa at pmei.net, he posts here and gives great deals on hybrid turbos, 450-500 i think.

gonna hook up a prop valve to my z, anticipating doing a rear disk swap found a way so it will take 30 minutes tops to hook it up, when i was planning it out, i was thinking hmmmm " linelock would take me just as much time and just as easy" do these work as well for stick cars as auto cars? i figure dump the clutch, hit the lock, and throttle just hard enough to break em loose and keep up loose right??

i think they are responsible 100% for it.

datto, are you done with turbo conversion yet? im probably gonna send my turbo down to alex to get it to4b'd and run 15psi or so on it when i get my fuel system setup, i wont run the injectors past 80% or so, i dont like the idea of running duty cycle that high.

looks like mechanist blue to me, are we trying to drill our rotors today??

just put the H22a vtec head on that h23, youll have a fun car on your hands.

either stealing, peeing, sugaring, salting, im not having it.