fl327

2.5 inlet outlet, its about ten rows shorter than the bigger npr, and about the same width and thickness. im in san mateo, about thirty miles away from san francisco. hey if you want it straight trade only, i think this size is perfect for my goals, but hey bigger is good too....

1)What sensors MUST be hooked up? crank angle, afm, fuel injectors, knock sensor, vehicle speed sensor, head temp sensor, o2 2)Do 81zxt have knock sensors? If so where? should be on passenger side of block, has two probe looking things on it. 3)Do 81zxt have Cylinder head temp or coolent temp? head temp, coolant switch on therm housing only runs injector cooling fan. or both? Are the the same sensors on n/a motors?(there's nothing in either hole) 4)I can't see a cold start inj. Do i need thermo-time switch?(there's nothing in the hole) no you dont need a therotime switch.

trade you a smaller npr for it...

i can get a ton of low mile rear calipers needed to do the 240sx rear brake upgrade, does anyone know if they are the same caliper? if so, i will be offering cheap low mile jdm caliper setups with lines included, ss lines for a few dollars more.

rad! (just kidding)

smog? muahhahhahahahhahahahhahahhahah! (im doing the Dr. Evil pinky thing now)

game is to be sold, not to be told.

hanging out with the guys eating at our favorite local northern Chinese restaurant, we talk about this for like half an hour: how much squeeze could you lay down on a stock 280zxt motor, if you pulled the turbo off, and ran a holley four barrel manifold with a plate setup??? hmmmmmmmmm????????? we think 100shot nos with steel headgasket and the carb stank rich?

thats what the doctor ordered. thanx.

hit this guy up for that, msa has one? v8-z@juno.com

i dont know what real hp is. my personal goal is 280 from the 280 @ wheels, im going with a pint size little to4b/t3 combo for that. i think the power can be had out of them if you have the system to put the psi out. how much turbo does 168 cubic inches need?

im a big kumho fan myself, 15x7 right?

is it wet????

i let em soak in pb blaster over night, and its still pretty tough sometimes, 2lb sledge is what i personally use when the going gets tough, last time i did tie rods and i had to do a pushup on the drivers side to get it break, and i was suspended in the air by that bolt for about 15 seconds, BUT I WON.

hood pop as in they tell you to pop the hood open and everything without a carb sticker is getting a fixit. if its superbad they send you to the ref station, which is no fun...

maybe more on 93, get it dynoed at 12

r180 is really flat r200 has a slight curve,

12 psi, all systems running perfectly.

dont have the room at my slot to fit a chopsaw, and dangit i love em, that and a belt grinder and i could run shop something fierce. i have a sawzall, plan to use it to cut bigger sections of pipe, but need something to hack the angles smoother, last cutter i bought was a complete POS....

man i have to move everything for this thing to fit, and i still have to get the intercooler modded! fan wont clear the tb pipe, great intercooler bumps the back of 280z turn signals, fabulous, i have to take more angle grinder shots at the front support to get a pipe to go through, rad! i have to relocate the coil to get a decent pipe to clear without adding a 45 degree bend, magnificent! i have to relocate the air filter setup on my car, either have to add a bend or shorten the pipe so i dont have cold air anywhere, fresh!!!!! man i didnt know it was gonna be like this, but i wouldnt care either way, its gonna be nice in the end...dang npr mAN..........

i bought a cheapo 30.00 one from the local hardware store, complete POS, wont stay clamped on anything-wont cut anything. getting ready to do this intercooler piping, god what pain in the @ss! but i cant wait. im ready to spend a bit more for one that works, the only other quote i got was for 90.00, it should work better its from a tool company i get stuff from, but im wondering if there was one inbetween that you guys might have had sucess with? thanx yall.

man if i had 6k to throw into a turbo setup heres my plan of action. donor car that runs for cheap as possible. throw the whole mess into a early z car, without even taking the valve cover off, just make sure its driving ok by getting donor to run right first. get it to run right in the swapped car. fmic, bov, 3" exhaust, rrpr, big fuel pump throttle body, better dp. tuning, tuning, and tuning depending on your goals, you either stop here or go further, the mods above with a properly setup stock motor with the boost doubled and a little bit more from stock can net you 250+ - and its beautiful

ive used both kinds, and they hold up just fine, i too was a bit bummed uot when i found out that it didnt have a castlenut, same with some brands of tie rods, which i wasnt excited about, but they still held up fine, personal preference is to use MOOG componenets, they not only come with castlenuts, but they give you every mounting bolt brand new, and high grade, very good parts, but then again-i bought a set of moog tierods and they flash rusted the first week i had them on (with the car parked inside!) and one of the didnt have the taper on the threads and i couldnt get it seat right, which made me have to return it, which made me pretty upset because i was ready to bolt em up and start cruising! be careful guys.

they are good in the front of a z, where theres like nothing protecting against some nice strut movement. in the rear on a street car, i dont think it does very much besides take up space. the rear has a lot more meat holding it together, the front of a unibody doesnt.

dont run a muffler, run a big tip off the pipe.