fl327

i run 225-60-15 and have 81-83 na trans with deepest od, and fifth gear still felt like i shifted into fourth twice, my street gearing went by too fast to even spool 10 psi, i would hit redline not even hitting my max boost. i think for an na application with a high lift cam of a short duration, like your car probably is, 4.11 would rock.

oh cmon, mph is all the way up there, just need to cut a tighter 60 , run more boost, and youre there, you knew that. if the cv's help your 60, then your there.

ok then, imma try it, all the ads for this one its a HKS supersequential bov, all the ads say its a pull type mechanism that will not vent at idle, im just gonna have a backup pipe ready i guess. thanx for the input guys, cant wait to have a true bov. two things i had to have when i started this project-a fmic and a bov, lets go!

i think the fuses for hdlights are supposed to be 10s, i put 15 or 20 in once for one of my lights and was willy the one eyed monster for three weeks before i figured it out. try a 10, and spray the fuse connectors with some electrical cleaner, then spray some on the headlight plug, see if that does anything for ya.

yes, an eight point will tie the frame very nicely, i dont think you would have to do anything else. then it would be time to start breaking driveline parts.

i was just talking to a guy who works the late shift with us at the shop, he used to do race car chassis , four link and ladder bar setups for a living, now he just does it on the side. for a twelve point that goes through the dash and all the way to the back of a z and all points in between, he quoted that he did it in the past for anywhere from 1400 to over 2k, depending on grade of steel used. he charges 120.00 an hour, 60 for him and 60 for his equipment. hes probably more expensive than usual, but hes built cars that go 9.50s

just got one for my car, stacking up the components i guess. didnt even know what it was until i looked for it on ebay. its supposed to be good at not leaking at idle, which is the problem i have with the bosch bov, which probably is only supposed to be a recirc valve. its got an adjustment bolt on the side of it, i will probably tighten down all the way. im wondering how many of you are running one such as this with stock turbo efi and what you had to do to get it from stalling??? inquiring me needs to know. thanx.

man decisions decisions. decided to off my lsd unit, gears too steep for my commuting butt, took the 3.90s out yesterday, and man do i hate working back there. took the torch to the mustache bar, dropped in the poly, and replaced the front mount, lubed the sucker and plopped the 3.54s back in, five hours of screaming, grease, dirt in my face, and more screaming. my rear suspension is clean, i thought, i got out from under there looking real ashy and every muscle from my neck to my knees is sore today, and i was taking a fifteen minute brake every hour on the hour. oh well, i did the work clean and put loctite on everything that matters, and a real nice freeway rpm now, but maaaaaaaaaaaaan, if i had money, i might pay somebody to do this stuff.

32mm, NO.

i like red, my last z was porsche guards red and it was ferocious looking i loved it. but then you go to any z meet, jumbos car is red, R0Ns car was red, my car was red, his car was red, her car was red, red red red red red. but yeah, red is hot.

theres one spot in downtown San Francisco that seems to make so much panhandling money that a gang of panhandlers take shifts there, i see them pass the cup at my lunchbreak, and it was always the same group of them, its a racket i tell ya.

for 3k you could do a nice l28et swap.

very true, i have to wash my car WELL every other day it seems like, and every imperfection in the body work and paint hurts to look at. im gonna spray my car again black sometime next year, and probably put some more metallic in it, it will look pretty cool, but yeah, once it gets a little dusty, it starts looking real dusty...

how much hp are looking or MAX? i would reinforce the chassis to address your max hp goals in advance. a full on cage is very costly to have someone else do, because it requires tools most of us dont have at home, like that cutting machine that notches the tubes. s and w sells a cage for a 240-260-80 for 200.00 or so, and it consists of the hoop and the tubes needed to make a cage, but it does require a lot of cutting and fitting, there are also bolt in cages from autopower and msa, they cost a lot of will still need to be cut to fit. once properly installed a cage may be all you need, it will significantly strenghten the chassis. subframe connectors would be nice too, the 280 already has pretty good channels under the floor and it wouldnt take mroe than an afternoon, some beer, and a friend or two with a welder to fab up.

black, i second that emotion

i used to work office jobs in some of the worst neighborhoods in san francisco. tenderloin, mission district, and financial district-not inherently bad, but as far as the homeless and crime ready to take you under very quickly-just as bad as mission and TL. i used to intermittantly give the homeless some money, but quit because i got so numb to their situation. instead, i give out food if i have any, that way i dont support their drug habit, and i can support mine. you can tell whose really in need by their response to recieving food, the fakers will just take the food and say nothing, the ones who need it will be just as thankful as if you gave them money.

any driveshaft shop can replace those u joints, they may charge a little more, but they can do it. if a driveshaft shop trys to say they cant, they are weak.

ill give you a ring next week....

they only do OEM rebuilds.

agreed. the 1.8t is born turbo, which means you can do more to it to make power easier than the na motor. the t28 kit for it can make 280hp, and the vr6 would have need head work cams and ecu upgrades to mess with that, then all the turbo guy has to do is hit the nasty switch. but then again, i hate em both equally, its jspec or aspec for me.

not a real hid, but i run those sylvania HID look headlights with relays, and to me they are bright as heck.

check the pedal height, should be about 8.5 inches from the floor, may take some adjsting, also check the pedal height spec in the haynes book, i may be off. also check to see if master and slave cyl are bled and operating correctly. anything else than that, and man the trans gotta come down....

thanx, had a feeling it was ok, but im troubleshooting my whole electrical system planning to up the hp, and want to make sure everything from the alt to the resistors is in top conditon, thanx again.

280 guys, do you guys get fumes? most of my weatherstripping is probably original i run a 3" exhaust, and have no fumes, at any speeds, and i love it, i wonder if its a 280 thing. i had a 240v8 and it was a smoking me out, and i tried a million and one tricks to seal it out, to no avail.

have a core turbo unit now, want to hybrid it up and run some motherloving boost. its stock 280zxt unit, want to run a t4 compressor and put the stomp down. anyone in bay area know a reasonable shop that will do it. or does anyone know a place-anywhere i guess, that charges reasonable prices, and would give me a good exchange if i sent them this turbo now for mods/ or exchange, and then sent them another turbo later and knocked some bucks off the hybrid turbo??? have fmic and working on fuel, need snail. please help.