fl327

3.54, 3.36 is the best i think for high horse turbo, but rare. 3.7 is ok, but its the only way to get a lsd in there factory style so liveable. 3.90- you dont need that much gear back there, you will spool too fast and not be able to boost as much.

hey im looking for one, or a solution to the age old problem of people either stealing gas or adding to it in a bad way. would rather not mold on a big chrome circle gas cap with a lock but if i gotta i gotta, looking for a nice locking gascap what have you guys done to secure you gas tank???? cmon guys..

stock turbo motor is better in the long run more boost, mo boost.

IS IT FOR SALE? oil changes must be a blast in that thing.

my first beater z was a 1978 black pearl edition that i picked up for 500.00 and drove for six months, didnt smog it, register it, or nothing, just replaced some hoses, plugs, wires, coolant and kept up the oil, and drove it like a savage, and then sold it. my second beater z was a rustless 1973 240z with 2.4 and four speed, i drove it everyday without doing anything but replacing the distributor with a 79 280zx one with e1280 module and tune the carbs, ran like a champ, sold it on the street for double up once again. my current beater is my 1987 toyota pickup truck, long live the 22r...

why would you want the na, youre already putting down 230 rwhp out of you l jetronic setup, RIGHT mr. nismo ED???

its just me, i cant tell em apart if its not obvious, and it might be easier than getting a metric to sae adapter, you might just need a reducer fitting, but the metric to sae fitting adapters arent a bad thing to have either way.

the slosh in the fuel tank when you turn it off is normal i think, all four z cars ive had do it. check your trans fluid.

you can use the GM knock sensor, it may have sae threads, just go to your local car parts store and pick up a small pack of metric to SAE conversion adapters, thread the matching one into your block, thread the sae knock sensor in, and SHAAAAAAZAAAAAAAAAAAAAM, its in! sorry, just got done watching goldmember.

that car was just like fl327s car, same rims, same paint, different bumper, and he didnt go for no saggyNAW trans. motor on that one is a bit more pumped than the 327 though, same heads though. i never complained about the handling of the scarab car, EVER, i had great fun with it, granted i never autocrossed it, but through all the canyon carving and the street racing, it did everything like it should have, and never said no when it was time to get rubber like ok fine, fourth would just SCCCCCCCCCCCCRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAATCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, man that car was a blast.

check the voltage at the 02, and maybe adjust the tps, most of the time when your mpg gets crappy on a efi z cars its tps, or the o2 also check voltage at the coil, it may be getting crappy, check resistance through the wires, check the condition of your plugs, i would try the tps adjustment, cause its free.

my thoughts is that he goes for the burnout, clutch wont grab, and then tries to double clutch it in second and spin a doughnut, and catches a great fat understeer, and curb serves his car and that gti pretty good, what an idiot.

how do you do that one? maybe trying to swing a fast u turn and got into major understeer, did you hear that clutch slip? what a dumbass.

call ARP and bug them, they will know, thats what they do.

man you cant give those away!

i do, and im in too deep...

type r motor in a civic hatchback is fast as heck one of buddies at the shop had one, and we made him race our buddies four door with sohc 1.6 with a greddy t25 kit with 13psi, and the type r smoked it, i got next.

muahhahhahahahhahahahahhahahhahahhfl327???

i run led bulbs from apc, you can get them at kragen, its not the big bold effect like you guys are going for, but the lights are about 20% brighter and you can see they are LED, at night

mine makes a real loud hum, but i like it! not stock though, porsche 911 turbo pump offroad spec, pumps!!!

maybe the two were meant to be one the turbos have the allen head driveshaft bolts as well, wish i would have saved them, you can really torque the crap out of those, i like em.

hey all, want to put a 1" sway bar in my car i got from davy z, thanx davy z ! have the mounts and bushings but no endlinks, i was wondering if i could reuse my old endlinks, i have some poly endlink bushings laying around and some hardened washers i could use as well, wondering if the bore is bigger on a bigger sway bar requiring a thicker endlink, i would think they were the same because of the hole in the control arm where it goes into is pretty small. i hope it works, but want to know if someone knows for sure because i dont want to pull the bar down and find out i cant put the fat one in. thanx guys

nope

cool, ill probably replace the top bushings with the poly i have from this one endlink i found at the jy, then if you can find them ill replace the bottom part, hey works right?

the 75 model is the weird flange, and the bolts are fatter and stubbier as well, i had to change the driveshaft out wiht a gear change, but now, its back in, with the funny flange