fl327

usually means the low beam bulbs are shot. kragen

my buddy got a typeRb18c5 in his egg hatchback civic, thing has 200hp dang near at the front wheels, that thing ran a high 13 without the fart pipe or the big air filter!!!

hey, never meant to upset anyone, hey i was just saying that if i had a chance to run a twin cam head i definitely would, its worth another 1000rpm just by itself i could only imagine if i were to be able to rev a 2.8 liter DOHC NA or Boosted, would make for one nice L motor, im definitely interested in the photos, maybe you should post them on the board, and its too bad you guys couldnt convince OS giken to make anymore of those DOHC heads, what about blueprints, probably wouldnt budge.

it does idle fine wherever i set it, but when i advance it even a little bit, when i jump on it its like hitting a rev limiter, unless i clock the distributor all the retarded.

i think the t5 is stronger for drag racing, has a deeper first gear. less of those around than na trans, and the na trans holds up well.

yeah, not sure what kind of rpm you could get out of it though, maybe the forced induction would help it out, but na they suffer around 4500rpm, they werent designed for hp, the design focused on low end grunt.

whats wrong with your wiring? i would just fix whats broken, and not break anything that works good if you worried about finishing it up and driving it.

Hey guys, this is a list of the problems i'm currently having w/ my stock 76 280z. Car gets shitty gas milage. (((((((((check voltage at the o2, running without one wont cause the stalling, but you will run rich))))))))) It smells rich at idle. ((((((((clean head temp sensor connection))) ((((((((check to see what condition plugs are in)))02 sensor Idle jumps around, 800-1300 RPM. (((((((check out the ignition module, also check to see if cap and rotor are secured , also check the distributor to see that it is not loose)))))) ((((((grounds, check them all, also check fusible links to see whether or not one is corroded)))))) 3 times i have been driving hard and when shifting at 5000 RPM the car has completely cut out and will not start for 5 min. ((((((tps, check for continuity, clean connectors, look at the links, check out the efi fusible links especially, whats going on with your radio when this happens, if it continues to play, your efi fusible link is not to blame, i had a car that had a corroded link at the efi and when it would go out the radio would go out but all lights would function, which mandated i keep bumpin and repping the west coast)))))))))))) There is a strange lope in the engine at idle and an odd pulse in the exhaust. Guy i know says it is a vacuum leak. ((((((((very well could be, but i cant see it stopping you when you are driving, check all vacum especially for cracks by the afm or possibly a loose clamp.)))))))))))))) I just replaced air filter, fuel filter, new afm, system diagnostic, new plugs, did timing+wires. So what could be causing this? It's kinda embarrasing when you're racing a prelude with your girlfriend in the car and the car up and dies when you shift into second! Also, the mpg is just throwing money away. So, vacuum leak? given problems, where is it likely to be? or what else? fuel pump, injectors? it starts and drives like a champ normaly, plenty of power (((((((injector test, disconnect each one at idle one by one, if at any of them idle does not change, you either have a faulty injector, drop resistor, or bad connection to the injector driver on the ecu, fuel pump issues are usually constant, but you could check the voltage that it is putting out, may be a shaky body ground))))) a bad injector would give you a hesitation, and most likely it would not stall at load, just run crappily))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) off the subject, have you checked out my buddy shane's new hip hop clothing store that just opened a short while ago in davis, ask him abaout the tall chinese guy that had a red 240z with a v8 four speed in it, he will give you a discount.

ditto what denny said, if its worth pulling out of the car, its worth making sure it goes another 100k by replacing the innards, it had to be dismantled anyway..........

whats your first hand experience with the twin cam head? all we know about the twin cam head is based on hearsay and rumors, god everyone knows a twin cam hemispherical head is going to be better for high rpm use-what else is new? over here one of those is so rare that if you ever popped your hood at a show you would have the whole show gawking at your car for hours on end, that is pimp value, because it would be one and a million. it would be more bragging rights than anything, so if you took offense to my use of the word pimp, you did.

ive been quoted 850.00 before, which yeah its an ok price, but you can grab em from your local yard for 100.00, and theres a lot of them to be had.

looks like the gtu imsa kit

do a search for any possible question in the turbo forum, it will most likely give you all the info you need..

i wouldnt touch it with a ten foot pole.i would go rb before that "thing" but that new g35 is bangin.

aghh, another jspec type guy here, good... dont you love it when he discovers the clutch dump technique of initiating his "d"??? i did. you know there was a transformer, or two or three versions of the 280zx, the cop car was the one that made it to the cartoon, but there is a silver one and blue one also "blue streak" is the best one, but became "prowler" for the cartoon i think, but its cool because when he turns into a car he runs boost-can you name the other transformer to have forced induction????

yeah, you can go 3.3, or actually 3250cc with some more tricks from the rebello house, my man Hoover is putting one in his z with a rebello GT2 head and some mano cam with the TWM 6 throttle setup, he says they dyno at crank about 335 hp, so 275 at the wheels should be doable, compression is way up in the sky im sure, but i agree, 275hp in a 2400lb car is scary, thats what my v8 car put down and it was pure rukus. more torque and less rpm though, 3 sets of rear tires in a year of wearing and defending the street race heavyweight champion belt will do that to ya, its not track racing and no its not official, BUT IT IS VICTORY, in a form as shallow as it is rewarding when its the product of your own wrench. now its time to equal that performance with half as displacement, with boost. oh the base 3.1 stroker is about 5k for 200-235rwhp with big SUs i think, but that was two years ago so i dont know now, might be cheaper since there is less racers buying motors since the economy isnt as good.

oh yeah, i can see it being of great help if i were running an NA distributor, that allows for more(any) timing adjustment in a turbo application, and it will net ponies im sure, im just wondering if its needed for a 275-300rwhp application with the stock system that only goes about 26 degrees total advance at the most, its so retarded right now it sounds like a houseboat idling underwater!

wangan midnite is my biggest inspiration for doing the turbo z project,and its also a late 260 or early 280 with fiberglass bumpers. "aghh, tween turbo ah!" i think maybe the biggest for anyone doing the conversation, it made me a believer, i want to make mine a variant of the wangan midnite car, as if we were a team or something-BUT ILL BE FASTER. the only other car i think that has a better show is the ae86 corolla with that initial d cartoon where he drift battles the civic with his hands taped to the wheel as to disable his drift method.

whoa, so he has the gt2 rebello head detuned with the extra big 3.3 stroker setup, i gotta see a dyno on that one, and a price sheet, my two buddies down near me run 5k 3.1 rebello strokers, one with mikunis the other with big SU's they are estimating 200rwhp, and they both diesel out all the time. my man down the way has the rebello 3.2 and is expecting 275hp at the wheels with six throttle and 11.5 cr. hey if i had it lke that spending money on exotic work i would do it, and BOOST it.

im wondering if a msd 6btm box is needed in my upcoming turbo mods. i know that the zxt eccs system doesnt let you mess with initial timing very much, i have it set all the way clocked towards the retarded side, and it runs best that way, at any other position it throws off the whole spark range, throwing me into a invisible wall when boost guage goes into 0hg, almost into positive boost, any variance from full clock its like a big fuel shut off feeling, but very abrupt. i think that the stock efi setting is something lke 26dregrees total advance and likes to be set at 20btdc, with this outrageous amount of retard stock is it really necessary to have a retard box if im going for sds eic, t3/t4@15psi or so, and the stock ignition with really cold plugs and short gaps??? i do want to get a 6al box for the rev limiter and the extra spark, but im wondering if i need the boost retard, seeing that the stock eccs system allows for almost no timing at all?

i am not 100% sure, but i dont think so. for some reasons a chevy will drop right into a buick, but not viceversa, and i dont know if its the same with a jtr conversion.

900.00 is too much. a trans from one of those import places if they still have them is like 400.00 with a warranty, or 100.00 from the yard.

the npr is 2.5 in/out, but i have a 60mm tb and want the pipe to match, i may go 2.5 in and out though. not sure of the path yet, probably something similar to what ive seen on this site, nothing crazy there.

the NPR it is.

wangan midnite car was either early 260z or a late 260z with the fiberglass bumpers, or neither, could have been a 280z with fiberglass bumpers, I AM THE REAL WAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNGONNNNNNNOOOOOOMIIIIIDONITEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE, yeah boy.