fl327

its not the cost its what you get out of it. i paint last, now i can lean on my fenders for hours on end, no biggie, you know why, i dont care. ive dropped two motors into this car and never laid a can to the engine bay, dont care to, maybe one day ill prep it and paint it black or something, but for now, i dont care. i will paint it after im done with my boost mods and a radio, so i can hit sears point the right way, im thinking honda SI blue or prelude SH silvery blue, nice colors, and they dont stand out like yellow or red, but they stand out.

weve got a lot 69-73 chevelles, but they all run good, no trades either, some run better than others, mostly all convertibles.

the lines will bolt right up, everything bolts right up, just have to bend the solid lines a little. i bought two short solid lines with fittings from kragen just in case, and ended up replacing them anyway because i had them.

84 4lug 300zx fit.

i would want to take that top off, but the glue they use to hold it on could be nearly impossible to remove without damaging the paint underneath, and i know most people dont want to run with a bare metal roofed z or a funny primered roof, maybe wait until youre ready to paint it, or run some DUBS.

i just fixed a leak coming off my speedo cable, man that fluid stank! i used a bunch of thread sealant, and used visegrips on the speedo gear housing, while i torqued the hex part of the speedo cable onto it, close to 30lbs of torque on it, then stuffed it back into the trans, made sure it sat right in there, and gave it one or two more turns, no leak, no sweat.

run it. 142 is max. minimum compression in factory service manual from which i am quoting is 100psi. if you get 120 all the way across, youre good to go, i would pop off the oil pan and check the bearings before you go, and saddle up!

weld one to the stock style datsun jack, instant tranny and diff jack, been using one for years.

none will fit right up, all of them require some shaving to fit.

its aftermarket. wont tell you what to do, but id take it off in a heartbeat, hopefully the glue underneath is easy to remove.

cut the intake where it meets the runners, run shorter runners that are fatter, weld em back up, modify the throttle linkage. youre there.

youre gonna have to do quite a bit i think, and i dont think 5k will cover it with justice if youre starting from scratch. theres a lot of little odds and ends that need to be adressed. where do you stand on a mechanical aptitude level---that will either subtract or multiply the variables that equal financial outlay in this situation.

jump it to see if it works at all.

looks like honda si blue. its the color i want to go.

thats with a three speed auto right? man youre a psycho, fastest i could get my v8z with m21 to go on the freeway was about 110@5k rpm and it was shaaky... with the .73 od trans i was spinning almost 4k, i think that helps just a bit youre a nut.

GOD, its so dang fun. i would get the car running with stock efi first, once you understand it fully the switch to sds wont take more than a week or so, im having great fun just driving the car around, i have 15k driving time in only three and a half months of doing the swap, and its been pure bliss. im running a weanie 7psi right now until i can get it on the dyno with an intercooler , but once i figure out how much boost i can get away with, IMMA GET AWAY WITH IT. plus im gettin a little over 26mpg with it at freeway speeds averaging mid 80s. once i do some more supporting bolt ons, imma turn the boost and hit the track, i cant wait, this time ill be in the import lane, instead of me in the v8z going heads up with the top fuel dragster or another funny car, and getting my boots stomped, oh man, lining up with the imports, oh boy.

the bigger ones spool slower, the smaller ones spool faster,

last night i held 130+ for fifteen minutes, the time it took me to get from San Francisco to San Mateo, cause i really had to go and do a Number two. its about 30 miles drive.

it cost to be the boss. you can do it at home, but there is some notching and some work to be done on the bottom end to get everything to like being 3100 downthere, and i dont trust myself with anything more than a simple rebuild of bearings and rings, you can always hollow out the block and have it sent to do the machining to cut down the costs. but it still cost to be the boss. it hurts i know, i might have to spend 500.00 into a turbo motor i bought for 85.00, but hey thats how the ball bounces, and imma need a spare motor, cause its time to BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTYYYYYYYYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i think the best bang for the buck is a stock turbo motor with the following relatively inexpensive internals. arp bottom end fastener kit, a nice balanced stock crank, new timing chain, gapless rings, a nice b and b, a steel headgasket with ARP headstuds, and a de carbonized stock p90 head, with the ports deburred. with this you make a bullet proof engine missile proof, and begin to boostin.

i run mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in trans and diff, works great and shifts nice when cold, and even better, i get it at kragen for .49 cents a quart, yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

when i did mine i bench bled it for two minutes and bolted it up, then bled like normal using a mighty vac, took ten minutes total. seriously.

turbo motor better

my guess is 300hp@wheels @15psi.

where theres a will theres a way.