Badler

It very briefly got finished, ran great then it blew a freeze plug and warped the head 😨 that was 4 years ago and it has been fixed and broken again several times since. I think it mainly has to do with just running too much boost, but I am very much over it at this point.

If you are talking about Budget Boosting then yes, Matt is the guy who helped me build this. I was only in one or 2 videos myself though.

To clarify, here is everything I will be parting with (and looking to sell as a set and not part out right now): - HKS type 1 surge tank with like-new, black hex head hardware - True vintage turbo header with external wastegate mount. Header wrap - Tial Wastegate with custom dump pipe that vents to atmosphere - Greddy GTX 3076r ball bearing water and oil cooled with <500 miles + turbo blanket -Custom 3" Downpipe with V-band on both ends and O2 sensor fitting - Custom aluminized steel 3" exhaust made with minimum bends but using mandrel bent pipe only for max flow, ending in a Borla pro XS muffler and a chrome tip - Intercooler and piping designed to minimize total length - HKS FV Bov - Cold air intake that sits a big cone K&N filter in front of the radiator and connects to the turbo -Tripple OER 47s on ported to match TWM manifold with isolators and throttle linkage -Greddy Profec B-Spec (probably some small things I am forgetting) You would need a boost gauge an AFR gauge a compatible ignition system and a suitable engine. Also, it is a large volume of stuff, so better if you are physically located on the West Coast, I could take a day and drive it anywhere within 200 miles of Berkeley. I was going to put this up for sale as $6500 or best serious offer as both the HKS Tank and the header are things that never come up for sale, and when they do fetch $2k each, turbo and housings would sell pretty easily for $1000, Carbs and Manifold would also easily sell on eBay for $1000, so the future owner of this setup will get a wastegate, BOV, Intercooler, cold air intake and full custom 3" turbo-back exhaust as part of the deal for essentially $500. LMK if you are interested in knowing more.

Hey everyone, you may or may not remember me from 4-6 years ago when I was building an HKS Surge Tank enabled, Turbo Blowthrough Stroker (and @Tony D wisely advised me not to, sorry I didn't listen!). Well, after a lot of struggling to get it to work, including fires, blown out freeze plugs and a warped head, I was getting tired. Last week when a vacuum hose blew off my boost controlled, I over boosted and blew my head gasket or warped the head again or maybe even cracked it, gas blew past the O rings on my OERs and there was a tiny fire 🤯 So I am officially giving up on this setup. I am going to dust off my 44PHH, have Rebello mill my head down to N/A compression and run it free-breathing. I am just tired of never driving my car. So wondering if anyone else has gone the other way from Turbo -> N/A ? Any unexpected issues? Also looking for an heir to the crazy throne who would want this setup. Its future owner probably needs the support of this whole community in any attempt to get it working well.

Hey, just wanted to thank you for the write up. I am having the exact same issue with my Hi-6 so I'm hoping that getting a new optical trigger will fix the problem.

Here are my nice little Rebello/JE forged turbo stroker P90 88mm pistons. The quench pads line up perfectly. According to Dave, he didn't do anything after they came from JE. I guess that if you had the design, JE would work with you on it. To give credit where credit is due, when I showed this to Jeff P, he showed me the piston design that he came up with and gave to Rebello that lead to this after some revisions. We stand on the shoulders of giants

This came to mind. P.S. I really love this thread. If I manage to be "successful" before I have "children" I will go for it

And for what it may or may not be worth, the Pistons do have nice deep valve recesses.

I'm considering buying those valves from VitaminZ for use in my Rebello 3.1 stroker turbo. Dave has my head right now for porting, but it is waiting in line as it were. The head is a P90, running the Isky turbo cam, the pistons are rebello P90 special forged 88mm JE with a static compression ratio of 8.5/1. The springs and retainers are the upgraded ones sold by MSA. Looking to get a good 400hp to the rear wheels. In the opinion of those who have gone before, will these valves help my flow, or just complicate reaching my goal? Thanks!

If you want more capacity Arizona Z Car sells a nice pan it increases it by about a quart. It also has baffles and cooling fins pricey, but very nice

Wanna get more flow? Putting a .82 A/R on your GT3076R? Well in that case I want your old smaller turbine housing! V-Band or 4 Bolt, doesn't matter to me. Just has to be GENUINE Garret, no off-brand eBay crap (which is only $99 anyway) I have a GT30 with no housing, so if you have a housing, I want it! ASAP Thank You!

Oh and for the record, a 0.25" spacer was needed to clear the Arizona Z Car 4 lug 4 piston brakes. Also have the NISMO studs in the rear and some Napa ones up front (could have used stock length in front, but wanted a few more threads). I hope that info might be useful to someone else. For the record Dave at AZC thought they would clear without. He was almost right.

As requested

Despite my previous comments of 14 months ago, I did end up spending twice the money on Wats and I have absolutely no regrets. I got 16x9 -13 front and 16x9.5 -19 rear, giving it a nice deep dish look that I love. With 225 front and 245 rear, I have about the same slight stretch as you see there. It is my opinion that those are 17" Rotas in that photo. I don't think that RKRs come in 16" but you can get a variety of offsets, and hey way more tire options for 17" rims.

I have mine mounted based on the top LHD diagram, I never thought they looked weird, and they are plenty good for changing lanes My $0.02

Yes actually, I have a set of MSA strut tower braces, the front has been installed, but isn't any longer as I now have camber plates. I never installed the rear, cause I ended up getting a full roll bar, making it redundant. They are long, but don't weigh a lot, so shipping one wouldn't be worse than shipping both. They are $242 new, so how about $212 plus actual shipping?

I have a set of standard L28 Rods. If you'd rather go that way, pm me

I have a whole set for ya! Installed but never ran. PM me and lets work something out

Hmm, I have triple 44 PHHs, and I honestly never even thought about it With my pins in the center, I seem to recall mine going nearly 1cm, I will be checking mine now though.

I actually have one of each available, both great shape, in the Reno area, could make you a package deal.

I have a set from a 240z, with key, just don't know if they would fit

I'm no expert, but imagining the bottom one with a bumper, I believe it is the same part.

Lwrnclightner, you are not alone. I have been building my triple 44 mikuni blow through setup for the past half year, and, after much difficulty am finally into the fine tuning. First, mikunis are WAY better than webers (see earlier posts in this thread). Second, this is not, Not, NOT the cheap or easy way to do a Turbo L28, and as awesome as it looks, it is a real pain in the ass. Third, you need a box; a very special box. I found an HKS type 1 surge tank by posting on the Datsun Parts and Needs Facebook group, and had it hand delivered 900 miles in less than 30 hours for under $800. This was a miracle, don't expect that. Do expect to look long and hard and pay over $1k for just the box. And don't just buy ANY box, the secret is what's inside, but you can search for the following, here they are ranked from most to least well thought ou IMHOt: -HKS Type 2: has a balance tube for even air flow with ~3" front entrance and divisions in the box between top and bottom with holes to pressurize the floats on the mikunis, meaning that the more you boost, the more rich the mixture becomes so no need to jet super rich. Also two nice vaccum ports. The only downside is they are SUPER rare and expensive -HKS Type 1: inside the box, only minor differces. Big difference is the balance tube which is only 2" wide and comes in from the bottom. Really easy setup if you are not running an intercooler (the maker's original intention)as you could just go from turbo outlet to tube inlet. Makes IC piping a pain, but I overcame it. -Cartech Box: looks big and cool, somewhat thought out shape. Does NOT do the HKS pressure trick, so you need to jet your mikunis super rich, and you will still run pig rich at idle and lean out on top -Other/Mystery box: often "JDM" or a "HKS copy" buyer beware! Get a good pic of the inside Let me know if I haven't talked you out of it yet if not, I will outline the rest of my build for you.

Less than a new (inferior IMHO) Schneider cam

I got an isky cam last fall, Ron is super helpful, and if you have a core the price is really reasonable, and shipping is only $15 haha