PalmettoZ

Hello- I saw your post on your injectors that you are using in your Turbo motor and wanted to add some info. The majority of injectors that guys are using on this site for their modified turbo cars are for higher flow 4 valve heads. This would mean that most of these injectors are using orifice plates for a spray pattern, and not the older pintle valve style of injectors that came in the Turbo and non-turbo Z engines. Although these injectors can work in the 2 valve Z engine, they are a very poor choice for the Z motor. The reason for this is that the spray pattern will end up spraying a large percentage of the fuel being atomized on the sides of the manifold and cylinder head, and not directly at the valve as was the originally designed injector. These injectors are also designed to be clocked in a certain position in order to spray correctly in a 4 valve head. So if your going to use a upgraded injector in your engine, the better choice is one of the older pintle valve style injectors that are typically used in modified V8's using a 2 valve head,that have a higher flow rate, and not an injector that is originally designed for a 4 valve head. I attached a photo to show what I'm talking about.

Great job on the paint! I have basically the same set up as you except for the hood and different wheels. I did the shaved back end as well. Scott

I lived in Germany for 5 years, in Frankfurt, and I had 2 cars brought over from the states during that period, and converted them to German plates and registration. When you pick up the car from customs, you might have to pay them duty, check that out in advance. Since I was working for Lufthansa, I had a reduced rate in which to transport the cars, otherwise by ship is the cheaper route. If your in the military, you fall under a different set of rules for plates and registration, which basically by-passes the TUV. The TUV is the german equivalent of the DOT. Here is a link in english: http://www.tuv.com/en/usa/home.jsp. If you plan on converting the car, they will tell you what you need to do when its inspected. Basically you cannot change the car in any way from stock, without it being stated in the registration (Fahrzeugbrief). Any changes need to be approved by them. The speedometer has to state Kilometers per hour, and it is acceptable to have both MPH and KPH on the dial together like some American cars. When you take your car to the TUV, be prepared for the typical government paperwork, and be patient. You will probably need someone to help you translate if you don't speak German, since the paperwork will be in German. I had to take my cars back numerous times for inspections after modifications of things like the emergency flasher switch (has to be illuminated with the lights on), and the removal of the middle brake light. If your car came with a Cat, make sure you have it on when you go. Their inspections are VERY through, and even things like sheet metal rust is not allowed (repaired is OK). I lived there from 1988 thru 1993, so things could have changed obviously since then. Oh, and by the way, you can get a set of temporary plates to drive on while you are trying to get your actual plates and registration. If you have any questions, let me know.

Glad you figured it out. How does it run now that you can take it wide open when you drive it? I had triple Mikuni's on my 3.1L, and it was pure music. My 5.0 that is in there now has a lot more power and has its a great sound, but the I6 with the triples sounded a lot better fo sho.

What size are the chokes in the carbs? Maybe you already verified that they are in there but if they are not that might be your problem.

If it were me I would use the replacement rails, even if the originals are perfect. Aren't the new rails a thicker gauge metal? Plus the new ones are probably a better quality steel than the originals as well.

They are aerocatch latches. Really trick- http://www.deftracing.com/aerocatch_hood_pins/index.htm

I started with Boeing here in Charleston a year ago, really like it, great company to work for. I was in Everett last Aug/Sept doing some training for about a week, actually had sunshine and mild temps the whole week. Washington is a beautiful state.

By the way Challanger, do you work at Boeing in Everett?

Its been over a year since I played with the megasquirt on my car, so bear with me. I started putting in a V8 awhile back and sold my 3.1L and megasquirt computer. Although I did put alot of reading and effort into setting my system up. My car was not turbocharged, but had a with a big cam in it which is why I went with the megasquirt. I looked at your megalog but could not tell much from it to be honest. I used Tuner Studio as well, and had the best results tuning while driving it and my girlfriend making small corrections to the fuel table. That said, I found its important to put in the right HP and Torque peaks in the table when you create it. The fuel table is in Milliseconds basically ( the amount of time that the injector is open ). I played with many different combinations and finally got it right, but it took quite awhile. Your motor is turbocharged right? So MAP means Manifold air pressure (or actually vacuum ). So when your setting up your MAP signal in Tuner Studio, your setting up when the ECU will richen up the mixture under load (not free revving in the driveway). I tried the auto tune software with Tuner Studio but didn't like it. I had better luck just slowly increasing my RPM's 500 at a time and checking the VE table to see where it landed. I couldn't get a decent clean idle, probably due to the big Isky cam. It was around 10 or so, which is pretty rich. This motor likes to run rich, since it doesn't really burn that effeciently. Your right, stay at 14 or below if you can, especially with a turbo. Can you drive the car and see what its doing under load with the laptop on the passenger seat or with a friend checking it? That really gives you an idea where you are. Also if the dwell time is set up too long the coils might not be able to keep up and could be a reason for the hiccup. What is that set at?

Are you sure its ignition related? Could you be running a little lean? What is your O2 sensor reading when your rev it up or drive it? Have you tried playing with your MAP settings?

I used this harness, much easier than trying to piece together a harness out of the mustang and put it in the Z. Also I use Brian Laines Tach Match with it. FWIW, I would use a stock block, they are really strong unless your going to use turbos or a blower. http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/

Located in the area around the rear hatch lock on the body. Open the hatch, remove the inner panel that runs the width of the rear area around the tailights, and look for the black wire that is screwed to the body.

Awesome job Cleve, fits in there nicely. I guess you won't have any problems with the rear end since it started life as an M5. I couldn't imagine driving a car with that much power, I wouldn't have a license for long that's for sure!

Hey- Thought for your hydraulic brake progressively locking. Do you have any of the hydraulic lines running close to the exhaust? If it is happening after about 5 miles or so, maybe heat from one of the exhaust pipes is causing the fluid to expand enough to do this.

What LMoore56 says is critical, the input shaft is longer on the 94/95 T5 tranny and bellhousing. My 5.0 engine and tranny was from a 95, and this makes for a much tighter fit in the car. I had to trim the fins on the bellhousing down to get it to fit. The earlier T5 tranny/bellhousings are the better option to use. I used Brian Laines kit and it works great for the 5.0 motor. Highly recommend it. His tach converter works great too.

Had some old photos that I finally scanned over to digital that I wanted to share. Built this back in 1993, an absolute blast to drive. Unique motors replica with a 302 with an original 4x2 Weber set-up. T5 tranny. Even found a copy of the original grill (this is a 289 FIA replica) made out of stainless.

Awesome car. I built a Unique Cobra back in 1993, and really had a blast driving it. Had a pumped up 302 with 4x2 Webers on it. One day I would like to do another one, dream would be one of the Kirkham kits. http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/. Factory Five makes some very good quality kits for sure, and your build is looking good. Take your time and try not to paint it until after your done with the build and have adjusted and worked out.

Is the 305 a crappy motor?? Yes and no. Don't forget that it will produce lots of low end torque, at least 300 ft lbs at 2000 rpm or so. Torque is what accelerates the car in reality. High horsepower numbers are great, but a low end torque V8 that produces only 250 hp will always out accelerate a 6 or 4 cylinder producing lots more hp. Simply because it produces more torque. The higher HP engine will pass it later once the 2 cars are going flat out though. I have a friend who put a set of 305 heads on a 383 block with a comp "tow" cam that would absolutely smoke the tires. It runs out of breath around 4500 rpm of course, but has alot more usable power driving around town. It made for a very torque oriented engine. Tons of fun...

Try this as well: http://www.inglese.com/

Don't think there is any resurfacing treatment that you can do to help the cam mate to the rocker. Rocker arms are normally resurfaced to verify that the radius is correct, and the surface has the correct Rz (finish). You can't do anything to the cam unless it is re-ground and re-heat treated. I'm all about the cheapskate approach myself, and re-used the rockers on my 3.1 liter motor with a new cam. Still going fine.

Hey Sleeper Z- Good camshafts only have surface hardening, and its not very deep. That said, most local machine shop (normal shops) cannot do regrinds on camshafts, and don't have the capability to do the hardening process afterwards either. A camshaft grinder is a very expensive machine for sure. If you send it off to be re-conditioned (or reground) make sure that the cam grinder you use can make a surface hardening for you after the grind, otherwise its a waste of money. If it were me, I would just install your used camshaft from Cockerstar and the old rocker arms if they are in good shape and don't show any visible wear under a magnifying glass. That would be the least expensive route. Probably would be just fine. If you want it bulletproof, have the rockers re-surfaced and cyrogenically treated, (Wolf Creek racing does this on an exchange basis) and get the cam also treated by him as well. This freezing process really works. Just my 2 cents.