cygnusx1

Here's a thought! Don't circulate a lot of fuel. Design a system to hold Xpsi at the injectors that delivers the amount of fuel needed.

Yes, there were two connectors they used. The newer ones were inline, the older ones were square. Since I could not find the pinout for the linear ones ANYWHERE on the web, I figured I would post it. I happened to end up with the newer style so I made due.

It wasn't just switching the VR wires though. There is still a missing ingredient in my mind. I switched VR wires three times during testing. There is some combination of things that made it work. Bottom line is that if you follow all the directions here, it will work. BTW here is the pinout for the 2000 Dodge Caravan Coilpack. This pack will use normal spark plug boots. BONUS INFO! The FORD EDIS-6 coil plug will fit directly into this coilpack if you hack it up with a saw and file or grinder. The pin configuration is identical and mates right up once you "reshape" the FORD Connector body. Of course you need to rewire it to match the pinouts. I mounted the Coil Pack on the firewall near the heater hoses. I mounted the EDIS6 module, right where the original coil goes (drivers inner fender). This keeps the VR wires short, and since my MSII is under the drivers seat, it's a straight run back to MSII with the PIP/SAW wires. Also, the tachometer wire is right there near the old coil. Just take it off the old coil and tie it to PIN2 on EDIS.

Matt, I sure will. Tonight I may get a chance to show screenshots, .msq, and datalogs....maybe even video. I could be mis-understanding what's going on, or what Megatune is showing me, but it certainly runs well.

Living with no e-juice takes me back to about winter 1999 or so...we had no power for five days due to an ice storm that ripped apart the tree line and took all the wire grid with it. No running water, no heat, and it was cold outside. Melted snow off the roof to flush the toilets, ran the woodstove for boiling water, and cooked on the grill. I keep a 6500watt Generac in the garage now to run my well pump, boiler, and fridge. Good luck with Ike down there.

Due to the awesome weather...I chose to drive the snot out of the car and not tune today. Wooohooo she runs awesome!

Dave Cerutti Putnam Valley, NY 1976 280Z (turbo)

Tomorrow's a new day....due to the lousy weather on Saturday, I chose to clean up the garage and fix loose ends in the car. More tuning tomorrow.

OK I hooked the 280Z tach wire (no resistor) directly to PIN 2 on the EDIS module and the tach works, mostly. When you start the car, it takes a few seconds for the tach to wake up. The tach also drops to zero suddenly whenever the RPMS drop below 1000. Once you rev up again, the tach wakes up, and works perfectly. I set my idle around 1000 so it pretty much keeps the tach awake. It seems that below 1000rpms the signal to the tach weakens too much. I took the car for a quick spin, not too far from home, in case it quit. The car ran awesome! The exhaust smells much less, it revs silky smooth and I took it to about 4500rpms under boost. It seems to have a ton of top end. It seems to have a little more torque in the lower end and tons of smooth pulling power. Keep in mind that in addition to EDIS-6, I put on a solid P90A with a 5 angle valve job, a mild intake manifold and exhaust manifold port and match, and this head is 0.007" thinner than the previous one. The biggest thing I notice so far is SMOOTH power. I still need to do more investigation on this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138328

Rough guesstimate is that my missing tooth is about 5 teeth after the VR at TDC. I was off by almost one tooth after all the grinding and filing to clear the belts and AC pulley. 8 degrees is almost one tooth. With PIP/SAW unplugged, it runs somewhere near ZERO TDC. Coincidence that my map is off 8 degrees from the light? Hmmm my laptop battery was dead so I worked on tying up loose ends tonight. Tomorrow I'll investigate further. Thanks for the hint Pete.

OK I hooked the 280Z tach wire (no resistor) directly to PIN 2 on the EDIS module and the tach works, mostly. When you start the car, it takes a few seconds for the tach to wake up. The tach also drops to zero suddenly whenever the RPMS drop below 1000. Once you rev up again, the tach wakes up, and works perfectly. I set my idle around 1000 so it pretty much keeps the tach awake. It seems that below 1000rpms the signal to the tach weakens too much. I took the car for a quick spin, not too far from home, in case it quit. The car ran awesome! The exhaust smells much less, it revs silky smooth and I took it to about 4500rpms under boost. It seems to have a ton of top end. It seems to have a little more torque in the lower end and tons of smooth pulling power. Keep in mind that in addition to EDIS-6, I put on a solid P90A with a 5 angle valve job, a mild intake manifold and exhaust manifold port and match, and this head is 0.007" thinner than the previous one. The biggest thing I notice so far is SMOOTH power. I still need to do more investigation on this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138328

The 3D Graph Tuning table shows the actual real time advance value under the graph. When I am in the 3D graph and tweaking the timing with the shift and arrow key, I see the changes in the shown value below the graph. Suppose it says around 28deg as it's idling. When I close the 3D Tuning graph and go back to the Megatune Gauges they are reading 20deg and not the 28 that was showing below the graph. The tuning graph is the only thing that is off. The MT gauge, the trigger wizard and the timing light all agree with eachother. I am going back to play in the garage. BBL to report. I will screenshot if I can.

OK I got the EDIS6 working with the dodge coil and MSII v3.0. I was able to get the trigger angle and the timing light on cylinder 1, to both read the same number. Now the Megatune Dial Gauge reads the same as the Trigger wizard which both agree with the timing light. The problem is that the Tuning Map differs. I can raise and lower the timing via the tuning grid but the numbers never match. They are off by about 8 degrees. Light reads about 20 at idle and the Tuning Map reads 28?

OK it's working. Once I marked the pulley in three places at 120degrees apart, I figured out which coil fired when and got the wirng right on the second attempt. My advice, make a diagram. MSII is PIPing and SAWing the timing around but I have a timing question for Matt or Moby or anybody that might know the answer. new thread.

FINALLY! We have spark. I have no idea what happened. I swapped out the module for a NOS module and got no spark. I tried grounding the module mouting post. No spark. I re-scoped all the wires at the module pin. I could read ground, the coil, the VR sensor, and 12v at the pins. Then I decided to plug in ALL of the spark plug wires to the spark plugs. I only had one plug wire on for testing. No spark. Then I decided to swap the two VR wires for the third time and BINGO! Spark. Then I put in the old module and BINGO, spark. The NOS one is going back to ebay after a month or so. You guys were right...the module was good. Conclusion? No clue. The only things I did differently was to connect all plugs and wires, and swap the VR wires. BTW the module case does NOT need to be grounded. Now I need to go figure out which coil fires when, to get the order correct. Clean up some wiring, and go play, ( :sing: ) "PIP-SAW-through-the-tu-lips." :icon43: My theory on the VR sensor is that it depends on which whay it's mounted. + and - might swap depending on the direction that the wheel swings the magnetic field. No? Theory only. Murphy's Law states: Your car will not run on nice sunny days. When you finally get it to run, they will be forecasting 5-8" of rain!

Do it yourself. Get a gallon of parts cleaner, take each carb apart carefully. Document the parts as you remove them. Soak them in cleaner overnight. Blow through all the passages in both directions with a can of compressed air. Make sure the floats, float. Re-assemble them with a new gasket kit. It's easy, relaxing work. There are tons of books and probably online instructions on setting the float heights. There are really no adjustments that you can make on the carbs other than the float levels which are adjusted by bending a little metal tab. All the fine tuning happens on the car with a screwdriver. All you need is a good set of screwdrivers and a couple of small sockets.

It's like looking at my project five years later! Looks awesome. Here is what 130,000 miles does to an L28ET block! Can you say HARD cast iron?

You also have less air density at higher elevations. Less O2 in the air per cubic foot. It's also relative....at sea level you are "intaking" and "exhausting" into the same atmospheric pressure. this is ALSO the case at 10,000 feet. It's a wash. What counts is the ABSOLUTE pressure. PSIA. Pressure relative to a perfect vacuum. At lower elevations you have more O2 and more pressure relative to the perfect vacuum of 0. Having boost is like having your intake below sea level and having your exhaust pipe above sea level...sort of . It's cheating! I also have the dual BAR sensor on my MSII. Unfortunately, I don't get to maximize it's use because I usually drive around between 20 and 1200 feet. Interesting thread!

Once I get the Z running on the EDIS, I am going to try to run my tach off of pin 2 on the EDIS6 module. If that doesn't fire the tach up, I am going to build the diode circuit shown in the megamanual to capture the negative sides of the three dodge coils. That, in theory, should wake up my tach. I will probably build a little diode board and stick it right next to the module which is mounted where the factory coil used to mount. The tach wire is already right there so it should be an easy install. Incidentally, since I don't know which pin fires which coilpack, I used blade connectors (temporary) at the coil. I can swap them around to get the firing order the way I want. This will also get the plug wires lined up in a neat way because I can choose which coil I want each wire pair to go to.

I would have opted for a micro-surgeon on that one. Hopefully the nerve damage isn't too bad. I'm no expert but I've seen better stitches on hobo's shoes.

Ouch! You better get some pain killers in you.

I don't quite understand your configuration but, braided flex lines should be fine as long as they are compatible with brake system pressures and fluids.

If it does turn out to be the module, I'll ship it to you so you can then say that you've seen a bad module! Fingers crossed that I have a bad module. Everything else checks out. I get no outputs from the module at all during cranking. I tried to meter the negatives on the coil pack wires for any kind of signal with my fluke multi-meter. I got not a flicker on any settings. Not sure if that's a valid test but I am the end of the rope. I got power, ground, and a VR signal. Just no spark from the ZX coil or the dodge coil. New module will be here this week.

I came across this part at RockAuto.com. Is this something that can be used to save those heads that have been milled just a bit too much and when you dont want to shim the cam towers? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209406&parttype=5420 Pretty cool.

Does the 25uf capacitor need to be on the 12v line for the coils to fire or is it just noise control?