cygnusx1

I ordered a fuel damper. We shall see. I am going to try it at the gauge end of the rail first. If that doesn't help enough, I'll move it to the input side of the rail. I also can feed the supply line to both side of the rail to help pressure distribution... ...or I could bite the bullet and run a return off the rail... so many options.

My return line/regulator is not on the end of the fuel rail. The pump supplies the high side of the regulator and the rail through the filter. The return line (not seen under the regulator) sends the rest back to the tank through the regulator. The end of the fuel rail near the firewall has a gauge on it that reads correct pressures. The only issue is that the needle vibrates with the injectors firing. This keeps the hose route nice and clean using the stock hard fuel lines, and keeps hot fuel from dumping back to the tank. OK?

Why don't you ask around for another piston? Someone here must have a piston or two laying around..or an ashtray. Anyone?

The second video is most likely sped up and has a fake soundtrack.

That's cartoon fast!

Yes, if you are braking and someone presses the line lock knob, the pressure behind the knob will be held in the line. It takes about 2-3 pounds of manual force to activate the knob on my Wilwood unit. When you re-apply the brakes, and pedal pressure generates line pressure, that equals or exceeds the pressure being held, the line lock releases. My line lock holds the car on a hill for about an hour or two. Maybe more. I DONT use it as a permanent parking brake. A brick and leaving it in gear is peace of mind. BTW: It will not lock up your wheels unless they were already locked up when the passenger pushes the knob. It just holds the last pressure that was in the line.

call your local PO or pay them a visit. I know when things get lost in the USPS, you need to wait a long time before they send out a search party. It is annoying. OTOH, I have had many packages lost by FedEx and UPS as well. None of them are 100%.

I am feeding the rail off of the pump side of the regulator, just like the factory setup. However, I am taking my return line off the regulator, straight to the tank. Two reasons...cleaner install of the rail plumbing and no heated fuel returning to the tank. As a result, I get heavy pressure pulses in the rail when the injectors batch fire. The car runs fine but the pressure pulses could make the throttle response poor/intermittent, and mixture control erratic. I thought about adding a volume of air to the top of the rail via a small container Teed into the rail as a test. To get an idea about the pressure pulses, I used to run a non-liquid filled gauge at the end of the fuel rail. Within a week, the needle tip snapped off inside the gauge.

I still use the stock damper but that was to dampen the pulse from the factory pump. Understand, I run a larger Walbro pump and large batch fired injectors which create large pressure fluctuations in the rail compared to the factory setup.

Thanks for the link to updown. I know very little about investing so this looks like a great way to ease into it.

Now I'm thinking I might need a damper on my fuel rail. The gauge on the end of my fuel rail definitely shakes the needle like it's trying to get the devil out. I run a return loop before the rail so the rail is dead-headed off the fuel loop. With batch injection and a dead headed rail, I am a prime candidate for a fuel damper. Maybe I'll try adding a length of hose to make an air chamber off of the fuel rail. Or I could buy this... http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php

Phil, I know my setup fairly well and if I was running low imp. injectors, I think I would need resistors. I run the MSII with the v2.687 firmware. It's about two years old now.

I like the way it's running. Here is a current map. MSII EDIS-6 Ignition 440cc Ford Lightning Injectors TO4B "super-v" trim compressor Intercooled BOV 4-Bar map sensor Dual MAP Sensors LC1 Wideband O2 B&G Firmware 2.687 Stock Short Block F54 P90 Head with 5 angles and lightly surfaced. GM IAT Sensor 280ZX Head Temp Sensor 240SX TPS est. 320rwhp/320rwtq CygnusX1 10-2008.zip

You are a true rebel! Got caught with your resistors down! I also see you are following the man-code of reading the manual AFTER the project is complete. NICE.

1 fuel tank change or proper filter = way less headaches than 3 blown motors.

We shall see over time. I am particulary hard on, or have bad luck with rotors, so if there is a problem, I will find it. I do feel MUCH better about not having to thin out a brand new set of rotors unevenly on a lathe though. Not too mention they are not well balanced if you have to thin one side out more than the other. Shimming the hats from now on in my book is a MUST DO. You only need to do it once.

I just came back from a test drive where I went easy on the brakes. I warmed them up gently with some 40-10mph medium stops and normal driving. The rotors feel SILKY smooth! Hands off braking galore. No more cutting up brand new rotors. !!SHIM THE HATS!!

I use the offset aluminum/nylon camber bushings with the stock suspension lowered 1". I set them to max negative camber. Make a mark on them in the fully extended position so it's easier to see before you assemble everything tightly. Fully extended, they will give you just enough negative camber with the stock suspension for spirited street driving, without giving you strange tire wear. If you are building a track car, they don't have enough adjustment to be useful. On the street, I feel they have made an improvement in tire wear and handling.

I was just going to go back and edit my post to add that option. I concur! There is nothing hotter than a nice set of exposed stacks!

Definitely, have a clear lexan velocity stack cover molded up. Like the classic Ferrari stack cover.

I couldnt get my dial indicator close enough to center to accurately check the hub. It's the only unkown at this point. It could be off, but from putting on brand new stock sized powerslot rotors in the past, and not having to cut them, I assume the hubs are probably straight.

I just finished my EDIS install using a 280Z pulley. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136906

I ran out of shims so I decided to cut up some feeler gauges. I managed to get the passengers hub dead straight. As a result, the rotor has only a 0.001" runout on the pass side. Two of the four hub/hat bolts needed 0.004" shims. I think that AZC should add this to the instructions. Using a dial indicator, shim the aluminum hat, between the hub and hat, as straight as possible before mounting the rotors. Had I not shimmed the hats, I would be cutting 0.030" off of a brand new rotor to get it straight!

If it's all stock, the wastegate lever should open the gate around 7psi. Disconnect it from the gate arm and make sure the servo operates at 7psi or more. Don't be afraid to bend stuff (bracket or rod) to get it to move without binding up. The flapper should move very freely with the servo link disconnected

I really dont mind the sig...looks great to me.