cygnusx1

Anyone here using autotune (closed loop mode) with MSII and an LC1 O2 Sensor. What are your settings for: EGO Control and Automatic Mixture Control I am about to try MSII in closed loop mode to fine tune the maps. I have done all my tuning up to now with Megalogviewer and its VEanalyzer. Thanks

Of course there is a ton of info and mis-info on the net so I try to read both sides of every story and make my own educated guess. From all the reading, I have learned that you need the right kind of ZDDP to match the detergent in your oils, and that the correct amount of ZDDP for your application is a defined range. (sorry i don't know what it is for an L28ET) http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z9 When it's all said and done, my entire L28ET long block probably cost me around $400 and that includes the paint on the block. I really don't worry too much for this engine. Here are some scary quotes from the above links: Is there any potential problems with boosting the Zn and P in my API SM or CJ-4 oil or such a thing as too much ZDDP? Beware of ZDDP boosters and concentrates being sold under various names. These products should truely only be used at time of break in. I haven't tested every one of these products, but one thing is very obvious to me. Every product previously sold to boost ZDDP, be it STP or EOS, always had roughly an equal amount of detergents to offset the affect of ZDDP in reducing the TBN of motor oil. Most of these ZDDP concentrates omit detergents altogether or have very little compared to EOS or STP! I'll have to go back through the various SAE journals to find exactly where it is, but it is in there that you have to have additional detergency because of the breakdown of ZDDP in peroxides and its interaction with combustion byproducts to form sulfuric acid. More acid, will increase the oils TAN, and will lead to corrosive wear of bearings. For once, I will have to say that more is not better, especially in this case. EOS and STP are decades old, and proven products that work synergistically with your existing motor oil and were never designed to boost the Zn and P more than 100-200ppm - unlike some recommendations to run double the ZDDP, in excess of 2000 ppm! It is not only the level of Zn and P that is important, but also starting with an oil that meets the ACEA A3/B3 standard would assure a starting TBN of 10 or higher and with similarly higher HTHS viscosities will also give you greater protection too. If you do choose to use these products, you must do used oil analysis to determine drain intervals and monitor overall TBN retention and ensure that the TAN increase does not lead to increased bearing wear! Too much ZDDP can also foul spark plugs and oxygen sensors, not to mention plug EGR valves and the catalytic converter. How can I boost the level of Zn and P safely? IF YOU MUST, PLEASE REMEMBER MORE IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER AND THAT USING THE RIGHT OIL IS ALWAYS BETTER THAN ADDING OIL SUPPLEMENTS TO INFERIOR OILS! We're shooting for 1200-1400ppm Zn and P! Some may say that it is out of date to be recommending EOS (new part number for EOS is 88862586) or STP. Well, I am concerned about the various highly concentrated products being marketed, aiming at boosting Zn and P to 2000+ ppm. There is no published evidence to show that you need those levels of Zn and P and more importantly, you are drastically altering the chemistry of the lubricant by doing so. Remember, STP and EOS have been around for decades and are proven! One way would be to use GM's Engine Oil Supplemental additive. By our calculations, between .5 and .66 oz of GM EOS has to be added to each quart of oil to raise the Zn and P by 100 ppm each. For a Porsche 911, I recommend using 1 bottle (pint) of GM EOS with every oil change if the oil you are using has less than the recommended 1200-1400 ppm (0.12-0.14%) Zn and P. If the oil you want to use has less than 1000 ppm (0.10%) Zn and P, choose a different oil, since you will need to add too much of the GM EOS to boost this. One pint of GM EOS is sufficient to boost the levels in the very popular SM rated Mobil 1 0w40 and Mobil 1 15w50 products in a 911. For a four cylinder Porsche, 1 bottle of STP 4-cyl treatment (red bottle) is the perfect amount for boosting the Zn and P in a ~4 quart fill. Alternatively, about 1/3 of the bottle of EOS will be more than enough. If adding oil additives isn't for you, alternatively you can use Mobil 1 MX4T or V-Twin, as these oils have significantly more additives. If you were to blend 50/50 regular Mobil 1 and the Mobil 1 V-Twin, you will end up with Zn and P in the 1400-1500ppm range, which is basically like a SJ or CI-4. Similarly, you can blend 50/50 Mobil 1 0w40 and Mobil 1 10w40 MX4T (4T Racing) giving you a good level of Zn and P, balanced detergency, and the proper viscosity for required by your 986 or 996 (and later) water-cooled Porsche. EOS should be used as a last resort now that we know what oils are best for our engines OR as an assembly lubricant as originally intended.

It is critical to get the correct amount of ZDDP in your oil. Too little or too much is bad. Make sure you add the RIGHT amount and consider how much ZDDP might already be in your oil before you add more. For example: Mobile 1, 0W-40 already contains 1000ppm of ZDDP. Here is Mobile's data: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf Look at the last column, which is the PPM of ZDDP. http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/How_to_use.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109717&highlight=240+bumpers

Darn...and I thought my rotors were simply warped. I'm still going to dial indicate the hub, hat, and rotors just for peice of mind before I replace my old bumpy rotors.

We call them dry-breaks in the processing equipment world. I've designed them into process equipment but never use them on a brake system. Here are some "dry-breaks" from Pegasus. I'm not sure if they are good for brake line applications. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=JIFFY

I think you could fit three more in there just like it. W-12 engine?

Good point Moby. The AFR table is totally fictitious if the VE table can't fill the bill. Add some fuel up there and bring back your timing.

I still haven't got it where the AFR's dont spike around a little bit during dynamic RPMs and loads. I think that would take a dyno and a weekend with a tuner sitting next to you. I know what you mean. You are driving along at light loads and roll on a little throttle at medium pace and see the AFR needle go to 17-18 for a split second and then go to 10-12 for a split second before it stabilizes. Sometimes this happens, sometimes it doesn't. I don't really notice it unless I'm watching the AFR gauge. I tried tuning it out with AE but it's kind of intermittent to begin with. It could also be a misfire throwing some raw fuel at the O2 sensor causing a lean read for a second. Under normal driving, it runs fine regardless. If you go too lean in the wrong places, you do feel a "hole" in the powerband that feels uneasy on the butt dyno.

...and taketh away when you must! Congratz!

I think I had the same instructor....or one with the same analogy! Less understeer? -less front swaybar -more front track width -more front tire pressure -come in slower

I went out tonight and took a great running performance map and tried to "economize it". With some arm twisting, I was able to get a decent idle at about 14:1 but I had to bump my idle timing to around 28btdc and had to make the next kpa cells just off idle very rich to stabilize the idle mixture and speed. I leaned out the AFR map all over the 0-50kpa regions to around 14 except in the torque areas and ran a couple of Megalogviewer tuning iterations. It certainly smells much less now. I still need to tweak and run a few more MLV iterations but it seems to still run great and smell less. Hopefully I won't get too many air quality complaints from the wife when we go out in the car this weekend.

Jon, Yeah but it's good practice to bed new rotors on used pads. No? I think I'm on "Q" compound and that fits with my use pattern. 99% street and a track day once in a blue moon. What compound would you recommend for street? I use ceramics on my Subaru for DD and they make no dust and no noise but their bite just isn't "sharp". I really liked the feel of the Axis Ultimates I used to run in the subie but they made way too much dust for a DD. I wonder of the PF Ceramics might work on the Z for street use. Not the best bite but a good working temp range and no dust.

Do you really have to pull timing at high RPM's in a N/A motor? I didn't think that was needed. I understand you are getting ping but that might be a separate issue.

I did when I first bought the kit and when they warped the first time. I think it's just time to replace these rotors. The standard answer to out of round rotors is to cut them. I don't feel comfortable putting a third cut on these so I am just going to go with a new set from Wilwood. Before I install the new rotors, I am going to put a dial indicator on both the rotor and the CNC hats to make sure the hat or hub hasn't warped. Wilwood also recommends installing the rotors and checking runout, then indexing and shimming the rotor/hat at the bolt circle, to get it as straight as possible. I think I need to spend some quality time in my front fenders with a dial indicator to figure this all out. Mechanical stuff is so refreshing after finishing up the haywire EDIS/MSII project.

I've got the AZCar 12.2" Wilwood Brake kit all around. It has seen two track days and about 7,000 miles of mild street use. The brakes have been excellent at stopping the car like a parachute. My problem is that the front rotors needed to be cut from day one. Dave at AZC made it perfectly clear that they needed to be cut from first use. Shortly after having them cut, and bedding them in according to BAER brake bedding procedure, they began to shimmy after a track day at Watkin's glen. I had them cut again and re-bedded. Now after a few thousand miles of casual street use, they feel OK until they warm up. Once they warm up, they shimmy pretty badly...but only when they warm up. Is this a classic symptom of uneven pad deposit or are the rotors warping when they warm up? I tried re-bedding them with no difference. I am about to order a set of brand new authentic Wilwood replacement discs from Summit but I wanted some opinions first. The pads I am using are I believe the Wilwood "J" compound but I am not sure what Dave threw in the box when I bought the kit. They make very little dust, no noise, and stop much better when they are hot. Maybe they are the Ploymatrix "Q" compounds.

Here is a shot Looking North (westward bend) on the Hudson River from Peekskill, NY. There was a fair but the weather was playing cat and mouse with us. It produced some amazing natural lighting. We had rain/sun/rain/sunset/rain all mixed together. Shot with my ultra-portable backup camera, Panasonic Lumix FX-35 All are natural lighting un-processed. GOT CLOUDS?

I have an early 76Z and your 280 tank reminds me of mine. I think the later tanks were very different so I think you have a 75-76 tank there. 77 2+2 unit supposedly: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/pts/825849478.html

After a full tune-up...air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, check ignition timing. Check operation of the AFM flap and confirm it works by checking with the factory FSM. Check all the sensors against the FSM, check grounds and connectors everywhere in the EFI system. Loose or ripped intake boots? Does the idle change when you unscrew the oil cap? It should stall. You can get the FSM in the downloads section here at HBZ.

For a shield to work, wouldn't it need to be grounded at one end or the other? If it's not grounded at the MS end then where would it be grounded? At the Megaview? or when connected to a laptop? Or is the RS232 shield connected internally to one of the pins that goes to ground? I'll look up the schematic of an RS232 to try to answer some of my own questions. Reading this: http://www.ptsdcs.com/whitepapers/15.pdf "The ideal RS-232 cable would force the common or ground voltage at each end to be equal. Each RS-232 cable includes 2 wires which attempt to accomplish this, and they should be as large as possible. On a 25 pin connector, these wires connect to pin 1 and 7. Pin 1 should connect to the RS-232 cable shield and must also connect to the connector frame itself. When choosing cable, look for the equivalent wire gauge rating of the shield; the lower the number, the better the power protection job the shield will do (lower gauge numbers mean bigger wires). If the shield is a foil shield, then use the gauge rating of the shield drain wire. Many users make their own cables and fail to make the pin 1 and connector frame connections, as they are not necessary to establish a communication path; this is a major mistake as it forces surge currents to enter pin 7 of the equipment which is not designed to withstand such surge currents. Improperly constructed RS- 232 cables are a frequent cause of preventable equipment damage."

Old thread...but good thread. Would there be any merrit to shielding the Serial cable and how could it be done? My serial cable is always hooked up because it runs the Megaview Display in the dash. I get resets VERY infrequently, about once or twice a month, but I would like to nip it in the bud. I run Accel Spiral Core 8mm Hi Temp wires and resistor plugs already. I also run a noise filter in the dedicated power line to MS. If I knew how, I would like to shield the serial cable for peace of mind.

Are you using my map? My car used to do the exact same thing. It went away when I switched to EDIS. I even tried reducing the timing at cranking speeds and cranking- Kpa values but I never fully fixed it.

8 degrees? Is that without the vacuum advance connected?

Where did you test? On a skidpad or on roads? The diameter of the circle or camber of the road plays into it as well. Nonetheless, I used to pull about that in my Z with the old original g-tech, on the road, and in parking lots. The original only did longitudinal G's so I stuck to my side window for lateral. I was always curious how accurate it was.

Factory spec on my 83 motor is 24deg +/- 3deg @ 700rpm