cygnusx1

The stock dash gauge shows a split second dip in the RPM's as does the datalog. It happens VERY infrequently, about once every 30 miles or so. It's as if a few pulses from the dist. are dropping out causing a low RPM reading for a split second. I changed my ignition Predictor Algorithm to "1st derivative" from "1st High RPM/ 2nd Low" and the problem seems to be even less frequent now. I drove it for about 150 miles this weekend and only observed the tach jump once. I am reading about the way the signal is processed and might try playing with Next Pulse Tolerance (%). I don't want to admit but I havent changed the wires, cap plugs yet. They are about 4 years old now but have only about 10K miles on them. Now that I think about it........it cant be the way the software is processing it because the dash gauge is run right off the coil right? Or am I wrong because the coil is fired by MSII.

I went to the Chuang Yen Monastery for a little relaxation, and took shots of the Z doing some reflecting.

Let me be the first to say amazing car you got done there! Don't touch the paint, it still looks wet.

Last night I hooked the laptop up to MSII and went for a drive to datalog some stuff. What I noticed is that around 2000 rpms with little to no load, my tach was dropping to 1500 and then back to 2000 intermittently. It happened a few times during the datalog and I was able to see it on the graphs. Nothing else obvious changed other than the RPM jolt. I did feel it in the car like a slight loss of power for a second. The PW stayed dead on and the timing was dead on. My voltage does jump around alot on the datalog. It goes from 13 to 14.5 in spikes all over the place but I can't correlate them to the tach noise. I do have a noise filter on the MSII 12v input. The engine did not change RPMS, just the tach needle and the signal to MSII changed. This tells me it's a signal problem. I use an 83 Turbo Dist. wired to the specs on DIY's site. It is also shielded wire, grounded on the MSII end. What should I check out first? The car runs great otherwise. It only happens at around 2000 rpms with little or no loads. Could it be bad plug wires, plugs or cap/rotor?

Really Really, nice. That is exactly what I envision my next Z car project to be. Good work.

It takes a lot of horsepower to compress air to 8psi at the flow rates of a 2.8 liter engine at 6000rpms. Your limit is the HP of the electric motor. My engineering sense tells me that you won't net more HP gain at the wheels than the motor can produce. Energy is never free. My engineering sense is also often wrong, which is why I still need to use text books full of equations. Sounds like a fun project though. I once got my Z better engine response by duct taping a leaf blower to the intake.

Oh yeah I didnt use the relay board. I made my own that you probably saw in the photos. I am not sure if the relay board would be redundant with the harness because I am not familiar with the relay board. Each MS harness wire is labeled so it made it easier for me to follow. Of course I could have done the same thing with a home made harness, but I felt more comfortable with the MS harness. I had to modify the MS harness quite a bit to suit my layout. I also added at least 20 more wires to it to return all signal grounds, and 12v lines back to my central location under the drivers seat. I snipped off factory Nissan connectors and integrated them into the MS wiring whenever I needed to. I mostly used terminal blocks and fuse blocks with crimped loop connectors on the wires. You can use any injectors. Just make sure if you run the ballast resistors with the low impedance injectors, or vice-versa, you configure MSII accordingly. I ran high impedance injectors with no resistors. Now I run Ford Lightning Injectors, also high impedance.

Thats pretty much exactly what I bought. I also got the harness from DIY and I used the LM1 Wideband O2 kit. My firmware is older than what you will get though.

Here is Mike's Z. (Buzz) 11:1 compression/ Nismo Cam/ Headers/ Twice Pipes /Weber Tripples/Electromotive Ignition/Ferrari Seats It's a video hosted here on HBZ so it's very slow to load. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/Trippple_WeberZ.avi

That kit has been the same poor fit since I installed my first one back in 1987 or so from JCR. The dual tips don't hang level, the mounts dont line up...but boy do they sound like music.

If you clear the cache, and setup msconfig to run flash on startup, the links work fine. Click Here for instructions

MSII was my choice from the getgo so I have no experience with MSI. All I can say is that it runs as well as the factory EFI with the benefits of being able to extract more power and tune to optimal performance in the critical areas. My only tune area that needs improvement is the cranking startup settings. I have yet to get it as perfect as the factory was. It's only a matter of tuning time. Right now, from cold, it cranks a few times over and sputters a bit before taking a nice idle. I need to tweak my ign timing and pulsewidth during cranking.

Wrong lane, but definitely the faster line....unless there is oncoming traffic

Nice work Mr. P! Looks great.

What have I been doing? I have been trying to find an RC club near me that had a decent site. I finally found the place. A club 15 minutes from my house that has a laid back attitude and regular barbecues. Here is some HD footage from my 2.5 meter sailplane. It's equipped with an electric motor in the nose, to drag it to altitude, and to get me back to the runway. Both videos are shot from inside the cockpit, looking at the right wing. Enjoy the sights and sounds! Vid 1: First time with the camera in the cockpit. Vid 2: Getting high and loopy

Should be fine. Just dont go much over wide open throttle at 5000rpms unless you add more fuel up top under boost. The stock fuel system will start leaning out after around 5500rpms and higher than 10psi boost. You will have plenty of power down between 3000 and 4500 rpms.

Yeah those seats have a deep bucket factor. He has trouble standing up on them. I am actually out in the yard tuning MS right now. Typing live from the Z on the wireless network.

Ahhh, I see where you are going now. Since the Z suspension is basically a giant compromise no matter how you look at it, your question is, "where to compromise?" The answer is going to be different for every track. I am a fan of braking potential. I don't feel confident in a car unless I can brake very hard. In racing, on some tracks, the winner is the car with the best brakes. At a track day where corner entry passing is a no-no, set up for lateral handling, but for competition, definitely give up some lateral g's for braking strength. You still want to leave some adjustment for rear grip, for corner exit speeds. It is very complex.

Good thing he can't reach the door handle yet!

I think assuming that the wheels need to lean in any direction for better traction is an error. First you need to understand what the contact patch is doing and what it does under different loading vectors. Then you need to find out at different loads, the optimum angle for the best contact patch. Then you need to design the suspension and car so that it produces that optimal angle for every load condition. Oooh, I just had a vision of variable geometry active link suspension tied back to load sensors! Imagine a suspension that set the proper contact patch for EVERY possible condition. High Tech!

Weld those spiders right back onto the shaft! Nice torque!

I really need to take the next Solidworks course so I can model suspensions. A few more months and I go off for more training.

The wider and stiffer the tire, the more critical this becomes. I like to run tires with slightly rounded edges to make up for my lack of "full-race" geometry. The rounded edge tires will tolerate more camber + or - and still keep a decent contact patch. I think a more modern suspension that has better camber management can benefit more greatly from a stiffer, squared- off tire.

OK, talking amongst ourselves... When the Z rolls, the imaginary line between the strut top and the inner LCA pivot leans by the same degree as the body. If the LCA was fixed, imagine welded, then the angle of the strut and wheel would lean by the exact same angle as the body. Fortunately, the LCA is not "welded" and it is allowed to swing a radius. As that radius is swung, it changes the angle of the strut relative to the body angle. The ideal, as JohnC quotes, would be that for every angle of body lean, the wheel would be "corrected" back to it's desired camber angle through geometry. The only mechanism that our Z's have to do this, are the LCA's. What can we do to control or at least limit the angularity of the tire to the road? -Initial Angle of the strut tower (camber plates) -Initial angle, length, and position of the LCA and bushing. -spring stiffness -roll bar stiffness -to lesser extent, wheel/tire widths and offsets. Anything else to add to this or correct me if I am mistaking?

Sorry I didn't mean to put the brakes on this thread Most mapping GPS's have a speed readout. I would imagine that this speedometer would work at least as well as those. It will lose signal in tunnels and under steel bridges. One question I have always had about GPS speedometers is this: Do they calculate speed on a horizontal plane only, or do they use trig to calculate your true vector speed on climbs and decents. If they are not using trig, they are not accurate on anything but a level surface.